Rolls

Ah ok, I thought he was planning on plumbing it back. Makes sense now.

Oh right, sorry I missed that bit. So what is the issue with adapting the stock return to a new intake? Wouldn't it be no more difficult that adapting an aftermarket one?

Yeah so why replace the stock one? In what regards is the stock BOV not good enough?

Yeah poor bastard didn't have theft insurance, really feel for him. Someone spotted it going north yesterday so if you are north can you please keep an eye out! Thanks everyone

Yeah locating makes sense, I just don't get why people made a big deal about it when I first mentioned it. Can't see the shear properties of a single dowel being better than 6 massive bolts.

I'm confused so the one you are advocating leaks boost all the time? Wouldn't you only want it to leak on idle and vac? I'm still not sure why you recommend upgrading it over the stock one either?

looks like my garden hose lol

bang for buck get a wrecker motor and just keep replacing them when they blow. You can get 5-10 rb20s for $5k, if you are making 260kw and absolutely abuse them it should still be 5-10 years of life, chances are the builder will stuff something up on your $5k build and it won't last this long anyway. Personally I'd go an rb25, extra capacity, VCT and it drives so much nicer and will make 250kw with basically standard response. $1k for an r33 motor (unknown condition) or up to $2k for a neo motor however they have lower kms and are a much newer better motor, chances are it'll last forever with 250kw if you get a good example (yr 2000 engine). If you build a motor, get an rb30, it won't cost any more than a built rb20 or 25 so might as well get the extra capacity, however buy a short block already assembled from a reputable builder, getting people to do it for you is a recipe for someone to ass something up. Still I think this is a waste of cash for what you want. The ultimate bang for buck is sell your car and buy someones money pit with an rb30 + turbo etc already in it, you should be able to pick up a mint 300kw machine for $10-15k without looking too hard. This would cost you $20-25k to do yourself once you do everything and make it perfect, but you will be able to pick it up for 10-15k off someone else as that is how cars are.

What is wrong with the stock BOV if it is operating as it was from the factory? Leaks on idle/low boost (this is a good thing imo), isn't too noisy, doesn't look bling and they seem to have no issue working at high power levels.

snap. 50psi on an 8L motor with so much overlap the dynamic compression is basically nothing vs a 2.5/3L rb would be a different ball game. The top fuelers 50psi is probably 10x as much airflow haha.

We didn't have a dowel pin when we put my fly wheel on (neo rb25), but located it up to the position it would be in with it. I have seen aftermarket flywheels that do not have these pins, and RB30e flywheels (identical apart from this) don't have it either. What is the purpose of the dowel? A few people mentioned it might be for added shear capacity but it is tiny compared to the 6 bolts and some flywheels do not have it. Is it just for locating or is there some other purpose I have missed? Am I going to run into trouble without it? The box and clutch has to come out in the next 12 months so I can fix it up then anyway, just curious if anything drastic will happen before then. Cheers

What cams are in it? I've been told that I think it was 25de and det cams are the same overlap + lift etc, but one is offset by a couple of degrees and they usually dial it in with adjustable gears if using in a different motor. I can't remember what the cams were that people were talking about, though when I was looking for a replacement exhaust one for my motor someone mentioned that, I'll see if I can dig up the reference.

It is almost certainly the tune, stock tune when running more boost sucks ass, rich and very retarded. Get a proper intercooler, straight through 3" with a decent muffler, new coils and plugs and nistune it and get a reputable tuner to tune it. Should see 180-190kw fairly easily. Stock it can be as low as 120kw due to there being no timing and it running rich as hell. Replace the FPR with a stock regulator, no need for the aftermarket one, often less reliable than stock and it is just one more thing to get defected for. The compression test is fine as long as there is no more than a variance of ~5 or so between cylinders. Mine read 110 when I did it and still made healthy power. Don't waste your money building it to 2.7L (how?), do a 3L conversion if you absolutely must. The 2.5L is capable of 280-300kw without a rebuild and not much lag, this is more than you need for most circuit cars anyway. Save your cash and get a highflow turbo, Z32 air filter and some bigger injectors, cost you maybe $5k in supporting mods and it will make 250-300kw depending on turbo choice. This is the smartest decision financially, an even smarter decision is sell the car and buy one with your desired power level already that someone else has already tipped all their cash into. Aftermarket ECU or nistune (highly recommended do a search) and pay a tuner to tune it for your mods, you can't just change stuff and expect it to run right, needs to be retuned for it to run properly.

40psi from a turbo that big is some massive airflow.

I can't see any reason why this would be true, the stroke is still shorter surely?

The flutter noise is compressor surge. It makes tuning a pain in the ass but it won't break anything, it is completely different from compressor surge when you are WOT, that kills turbos. Basically if you want the flutter noise run no BOV or tighten the bov so much that it doesn't really open. This is the kind of surge that kills turbos, he is loading it up way too much though, that is like coming on boost at low rpm in 5th gear up a hill, you almost never get that much load. It is completely different, when WOT you have a torque applied to the exhaust wheel, the wheel keeps slipping and it will eat the bearings eventually. When you are off throttle there is no torque being applied so the wheel just slows down. When WOT it will kill the turbo, when you are off throttle it wont do shit.This topic has been done to death, flutter won't break anything, heaps of cars ran no BOV from the factory, HR31 skylines, VL turbos, some porsches, even F1 turbo cars have no bovs lol and neither do most 600hp rally cars. It is a non issue, if you like the sound of it go for gold it wont break anything, it might screw with the tune and causing stalling and puffs of black smoke when you throttle off though.

Ta

I reckon meth head joy riders, nothing really worth stripping and it stands out with the paint.

STOLEN Mates dark purple/blue resprayed R32 2 door GTST was stolen from out the front of his work (solitaire workshop off south road) this afternoon, the c*nts reved the shit out of it right past the workshop showing off. It has a GTR front bar and gold rims, completely stock apart from this and exhaust. Really stands out with the paint. Plates are XRP695 He had no theft insurance (silly) so really hoping to get at least something back. If anyone sees anything give the police a call and me on 0423 277 771 thanks guys was seen heading north about 2pm today, if you live north can you please keep an eye out for this.

I know this is the wrong thread but for some exposure STOLEN Mates dark purple/blue resprayed R32 2 door GTST was stolen from out the front of his work (solitaire workshop off south road) this afternoon, the c*nts reved the shit out of it right past the workshop showing off. It has a GTR front bar and gold rims, completely stock apart from this and exhaust. Really stands out with the paint. Plates are XEP695 He had no theft insurance (silly) so really hoping to get at least something back. If anyone sees anything give the police a call and me on 0423 277 771 thanks guys

Oh also the crank pulleys are different sizes so you will need different accessory belts.

If you get a massive bargain for a bare engine you could consider using the rb20det computer and loom. How much better is the computer simon? Also would the R34 cluster look out of place?

No it doesn't, plug in a consult cable and check the fault codes.

Some software and hardware genuinely is better though, it is just hard to find out what is.

I'm genuinely curious in both sides.