Rolls

That looks more like something got through the filter, like a loose bolt or something! I would be pulling the entire intake assembly out to look for it imo. I had a turbo where the housing and compressor made love, it still boosted but it sounded like a jet engine, probably the loudest whining noise I've ever heard, and yeah it just ground the edges down every so slightly, didn't snap anything off.

its actually a deflagration ; ) (I knew) That is because peak hp isn't at peak torque. So you might have had more tweaking around peak torque to do, but not at peak hp.

Haha who is a hater? The results are very close to garret for half the price, I can't imagine anyone hates that! jealous maybe not but hate!

Oh right you were talking in regards to P platers, I thought you were talking generally, my bad. Yeah I suspect it is something similar in other states as well, anyway getting off topic.

You can put any engine in you want providing you engineer it, there are however engine size limits. Something like 4L turbo for an R32 and 6-7L NA you can go read the relevant ADRs for it, there are also engine swap forms which show what you can do legally.

You can legally put something like a 6L na motor in a skyline, does the P plater rules say anything about a big NA v8/six ? If you got say a 5.6L nissan V8 out of some massive truck that is too heavy to be on the banned list, could you get away with that? edit: Perfect choice of car to put an rb30de in, being as they came out with a 2.6 or some people put the 2.8L motors in, a newer 3L twin cam really suits it. NA RBs usually sound like dogs balls as well so it sounds surprisingly nice, might be the cam they are using.

If it is running well then keep it, too many dodgy builders around, every second one blows or or has something done wrong even when you spend $10k.

I have a forged 25 bottom end built and was running (no head) for $1k and no interest so good luck at $2500 haha, people are stooges.

Still got it buddy

remap with intercooler, boost to 10-12psi, 3" exhaust, good coils (if they are old), new plugs should see close to 200kw. Nistune on its own will make a reasonable difference still, but might as well do all the usual mods with it.

neat

Measure the oil when you drain it, if a significant amount is missing (burnt) then go up a grade eg 15-50 like mentioned.

It makes sense for timing to always reduce EGTs as you are keeping the explosion in the cylinder for longer so more heat gets absorbed.

Does that much extra lock actually help?

slide hammer, dynabolt, welded chain, grease compression, chisel and hammer were all the methods I was told. Slide hammer works great if it fits, if not the chisel and hammer + 30 minutes of bashing seems to also work.

Interesting, I thought the rod change was due to the combustion chamber change and the pistons were the same, happy to be proven wrong though.

with all tolerances perfect and everything perfectly balanced.

So take it back to the tuner

Missing at startup will foul them very quickly. You will probably be getting mixtures lower than 5:1 when the engine finally fires. Was it hard to start always? The plugs could also be the heat range, what are they marked as? Usually any carbon and soot will get burnt off as soon as you give it a good flogging.

Half the flywheels DON"T have the dowel though, this is why I thought it was no issue, rb30e and quite a few aftermarket ones are missing the dowel hole. The single dowel pin is about 1/4 the diameter of the flywheel bolts, I really doubt the added shear capactiy would do anything, if it was going to shear without it they would use different bolts. I am just not sure what the reason other than locating it is there for. Surely they would have two opposing larger dowels if shearing was the issue? I am fairly sure the bolts are hardened steel of some sort, probably similar to the dowel, wouldn't the shear properties of the bolts even if a weaker grade still be far in excess of the dowel? It looked like the dowel only located the flywheel itself, it didn't stick through and touch the clutch? If it went through the clutch then I see your point.

Sounds like it might be the start which is overly rich and not the rest of the tune. Who tuned the car? I would take it back and say it is fouling plugs and not running properly and it wasn't doing it before, points to the tune is at fault, be polite about it and I'm sure they will fix it up for cheap. Though if you are changing the fuel pump I would just do that first and take it back for 1 hour of touch ups, shouldn't cost much. The last 20% of the work takes 90% of the time, like everything complicated.

You make it sound so easy lol.

Sounds like fuel pump, take the fuel line off and try priming the pump to start, see if anything comes out, if it does it could still be faulty, but if it is so bad it won't start I would say it isn't pumping at all. If this isn't the issue then get a consult cable and check all the fault codes. Cars are expensive, skylines especially, be prepared to fix things on it from time to time.

That makes no sense, did you tell him you had changed the engine? Because its not properly registered if you didn't. also people it is easier than you think to grind engine numbers off and stamp new ones on

eboost street comes with a window switch built in as well.