Rolls

What does MBT stand for?

One month window isn't going to happen, go spend $900 on a run around car and then you don't have to rush.

at idle it wont make any difference, unless the new turbo has a leak in the gasket?

Bizzare, I have no idea.

An interesting reply from Pete from nistune over on the nistune forums If you are a member over there here is the link http://forum.nistune.com/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=1995&p=14150#p14150

So going with that if you made the same power with both methods and had just as much timing leeway to detonation which method would you choose? Does the extra fuel significantly cool the pistons?

SA is cheaper but they are by far one of the strictest and hardest to pass, everything basically has to be stock to pass. I have a highflowed stock turbo, but he picked up that it looked cleaner than everything else and asked who rebuilt it and to what specs. The $140 inspection is like a full EPA inspection in other states, EVERYTHING is checked. They even picked me up on missing dump bolts.

So what is more likely to cause detonation, high temps due to leaner combustion or more ignition timing?

So I see mainly jap cars where they tune 10:1 and run loads of ignition, but here in Aus people tend to run more like 12:1 with less ignition timing. What is the safer way to tune? If you have high temps due to a small turbo running at its limits, would the more fuel + more ignition be the better method due to the richer fuel charge providing more cooling to the cylinder? What is more likely to cause detonation, higher ignition timing? Or higher combustion temps? Is it this simple? Or does it depend on many many other things? Curious what peoples thoughts are. Cheers

In SA it cost $140 for a full road worth inspection (basically what happens when you get defected), had to have R33 brakes to pass and everything 'stock', though I had a highflow, gtr injectors, z32, nistune, catch can plummed back in and passed second time, failed for bushes and worn hicas rods first time. I also had to have an idle emissions test, but I just got workshop it make it up and write it on a piece of paper. As a result of passing I got a signed letter saying 'exemption to modificattion' stating I had an engine swap and passed regency. Basically helps get out of defects if you show it to cops.

That torque curve looks like a real handle to drive, what is it like ss8?

Um... I'm pretty sure it takes more than that, is your sump bashed in?

turbo light isn't a full synthetic, should be able to get a full synthetic motul for $60-70 depending on where you buy

Needs more boost and will have higher temps due to using the upper right hand side of the compressor map though (assuming you are aiming for similar power levels), I'd argue high temps are worse than revs. Revs you can limit, temps you can quite easily exceed and start detonating. That said I would still go the smaller turbo for response reasons though.

So instead of transbrake clutch in and use a two step or something to build boost in neutral then drop it? Wouldn't a transbrake be cheaper?

What is the difference between a 3037 anda 3076/71 ?

Yeah don't lower the price simon, it is just a matter of someone actually wanting on and having the money for it. Perhaps spam the garret thread, or put a link in your sig to it?

You can, but most people sell them for $100, so if you can do it yourself for $10 why not? Also the standard one doesn't use a resistor as they are normal impedance.

What turbo setup are you running?

Pretty damn accurate I'd say as it is using the CAS and it is low rpm (at high rpm the CAS signal can get inccurate in some cars). Could you try 2nd gear just out of curiosity? as that is what I think most people are interested in.

Sounds about right with 4.4 diff gears ?

It is just advanced google fu.

I just re did it with 240x40x18 and it is 3955 vs 4010rpm for 110kph Use these websites http://www.rkm.com.au/calculators/calculator-circle-sphere.html another calc RPM = (diff ratio * (mph * 88)) / (tire circumfrance in inches / 12) * transmission 4th ratio

Assuming 17" rims and 235 tyres looks like 110kph is about ~4000 rpm so peak boost by 35-3700 is believable given those calcs.

Oh also what was your rim and tyre size? If anyone is interested this is how I convert, I'll assume the nismo is 4.4 KM/H x (1000/60) This gives your speed in meters per minute. pi x Diameter (in metres) This will give you the cirucumference of your wheel in metres. Speed / Circumference This gives how many rpm of wheel per minute. Then divide by diff ratio if in 4th.