Rolls

From what decs said I'm assuming the ramp rate was adjusted to compensate.

Keep screwing it in until it makes the power you want and isn't out of the efficiency zone. Check the compressor map and see work out the rough max psi you can run before it'll be out of the zone.

How much did the IM240 test cost you ? Including tuning to meet it

I got out of doing a 2nd gear slide in front of an unmarked car some how after I said I was an electronic engineer, they were all 'well you are educated blah blah this isn't what we expect from people like you' and got off with just an excessive noise fine so I can certainly attest to that, being in slacks and tie probably helped as well along with being polite and saying I was driving like a headless chook.

If you can get it done for cheap, eg it doesn't cost much.

Ive never been defected driving on the roads, but I have almost been defected quite a few times, mainly due to doing stupid stuff and just getting out of it. Minor defect is police station eg what you just mentioned, major defect (suspension, too loud, turbo etc) is regency.

If all you are doing is head work and nothing else and can get it done for bugger all, then it is worth a shot.

When I originally had the issue this fixed it for me, now it doesn't seem to matter though as I get notifications every time.

$2500 for the swap is cheaper than building a motor and doing experimental head work that won't give guaranteed results. it is still a no brainer

If I could safely increase boost in the upper rpm I would also increase it in the midrange.

Should be on just above idle ~1500 till ~5.5k

Yeah this is why I keep my car looking 100% stock with all my mods and the ones that are visible pass a regency visit, that and I've talked my way out every time I've been pulled over, I guess I was just wondering what people with their high mounts do, if they don't actually drive the car or they actually do risk it and are willing to take it all back to stock every time they get pulled over, sounds like a massive hassle though.

plan for it to happen eventually, it happens to most of us at least once.

Yeah I get how to avoid and how to get passed, I'm just asking how do the guys with engine bays full of every toy and huge top mounts get off, I mean we've all seen HUNDREDS of these examples eg every single magazine vehicle. Do they honestly turn everything back to stock for the inspection? Is there something I'm missing? edit: I'm from SA an if you get defected and sent to an inspection here it basically has to be 100% stock or you fail, pretty much any visible mod apart from intake and exhaust is a failure. I'm assuming that is the same as EPA in other states? If you get pulled over with a big stinking top mount do you get instantly sent to EPA? Because here in SA you'd get defected which sounds like the same thing.

How to avoid getting defected is easy, I'm talking about when you finally do get defected how do you pass? Surely the people with top mount turbos are f**ked? I've used my 'exemption to modification' letter for my engine swap to get out of it a few times, also it looks stock as well which helps. But what about guys with big top mount turbos, shiny bling fuel rails, clear timing covers etc, surely as soon as the bonnet is popped = defect and then you have to take it back to stock, sounds like a huge pain in the ass.

Any police station will do it, but if they suspect it is modded it will be sent to regency, If so the following will need to be returned to standard: Turbo timer - removed cam pulleys if visible removed exhaust if above legal limit removed coilovers almost certainly will need to be removed for both pits and regency as they will be adjustable and too low bonnet 100% needs to be removed as it doesn't pass ADRs Boost controller removed Power FC removed and stock ecu installed depends on the rim size but if they exceed the ADRs also returned to stock my advice is wind the coilovers as high as possible, buy a set of stock rims and remove all fancy things, also put a non clear timing cover on, that should make it look stock, oh and obviously take the stupid CF bonnet off haha that will be instant ass f**king

I see LOTS of big hp cars on here with 3-500hp with big high mount turbos, external gates, non standard manifolds and all sorts of bling. How do you guys live with the fact that your car could be defected any day at an RBT after doing nothing wrong, are you guys seriously willing to return everything to stock, stock turbos, stock intake, stock computer, stock injectors to pass a defect? How do you get around? I mean surely it is only so long before you get it defected? The only option I see is to keep the car standard looking, low mount turbo or highflow with stock looking everything, yet every second car I see has ridiculous high mounts with bling this bling that, how does it work?

discopotato what do you do for a job, you are a walking encyclopedia

What ever you do do not use any liquids or sprays on it. It is almost certainly fine to use, that rust will come off in the first take off, if you look at brake discs after 2 days of rain and no driving they look similar.

You would need to run 25psi+ to really show where these turbos shine. Kind of why I would like to see a 71 back to back or a gtx28 if they made it. Most people don't run these turbos to their max. Still I am delightfully surprised by the gain in response. Does anyone know if they make these similar wheels for GT28 style turbos ?

http://www.skylinesa...5890781__st__20 almost 1000rpm of spool difference, although completely different dyno setups so not really that compareable. Still it really does look like his is set up perfectly. He is also using external gate and manifold, what are you using?

Oh I wasn't talking about the comparison, just generally curious how much it improves it.

So is this a matter of you doing say 3 tunes, E85, E50, and plain 91 (being as they mix with 91 not 98) and the link then interpolates between them? Or does it have an intermediate fuel and ignition trim table? How much tweaking was required by trent to get the intermediate tables or interpolation settings correct? Eg how many dyno hours on specifically this part? Just curious how feasible it is, or if it is like requesting a dyno shop to do 10 tunes for you and the cost of tuning makes it far too expensive. Thanks

I pulled mine out with vice grips

Using the flywheel bolts? lol