Rolls

Do you think the manifold makes any difference to spool? If you were to use stock manifold with internal gate how do you think it would influence the result? Spool and top end that is.

It isn't that I'm scared of the 76 being bad, I just want it to be as good as possible, ultimately I'd love to see 280kw with the turbo on full song from 3-3.5k all the way to 7.5k, currently I can't find anything that does that. All the 76 graphs I see vary from 3700-4500 depending on tune and dyno settings. GT28 seems to come on about 3.5k but dives over by 7.5k and doesn't make 280kw unless you run E85 and really really lean on it. Can anyone think of any turbo/gate/manifold combination that will achieve this? The reason I want this combo is I want 4k of revs between when the turbo is on full boost and when torque starts to drop off. The only other way to achieve it is to build a motor that will spin to 8k+ everyday, then the gtx76 with external gate will give the same power band, just from 4k upwards. That or build a 30.

Interesting, everyone seemed to think it would be laggier and other results seemed to show that it would be, this shows a huge change in spool. What is the transient response like simon, much nicer to drive? Also what manifold are you using, and internal gate? edit: Were the dyno run settings EXACTLY the same?

I cant imagine it was for shear, they would just change the bolts, plus it would add absolutely nothing. Im just wondering if theres another use, being as the bolts basically align it. confused

Hey if you put the flywheel in minus the dowel, but line it up where the dowel is meant to be will there be any issue? Is it just for locating the flywheel?

Does the dowel really matter? As long as you line it up properly

I really doubt its compression is actually almost half of yours, if it did it would drive like absolute shit, either completely wrong pistons or blown rings. The reality is it is probably one motor was cold/hot, different tester, different rpm, different cams etc. My old rb20 measured 90-95 on all 6, made 155kw on 11psi stock turbo and blew no smoke, all that matters is it is close.

The point is for bugger all money you can drop a stock rb25 in which will do what you want for ~$1500. What you want to do will cost shitloads, and if you were to spend that same shitloads on an rb25 or rb30det then it would be magnitudes better again! Don't waste your time or money on the rb20, even with all the headwork in the world it is still only 2L and short stroke, it will always suck down low, head work and cams will make it worse! a stock rb25det with VCT and stock cams compared to an rb20 with headwork and cams that makes the same power will have almost double the torque at 2-3krpm it will also have cost less than half the price. it is a no brainer!

Yeah I am 95% sure of this, I do know that the rb20det and the rb30e are identical for a fact though. They should all weigh identical. As I said earlier the rb20e, et, and redtop det are different though.

IF you own a skyline you soon will! haha have fun fixing stuff ; )

Nope, sounds about right. Being as the stats say something like 1/4 people your age will put it into a tree it makes sense why it is high. I'm 24 and its still about $1k

redtop rb20det are smaller than silvertop rb20det though

and make sure it isn't burning oil

It isn't the psi that kills it, it is the mass airflow and tuning.

Just do this. You drive a skyline, nothing you do will be different. Also rb20 sucks ass compared to rb25, no VCT, lower compression and yeah, just bin it and get a 25. The difference is night and day. Don't bother rebuilding for under 300kw. This. Save your money.

The rb30e flywheel is identical to rb20de, I know because I used one for my old skyline. I thought rb25 vs rb20 were the same as well? Either way just match the flywheel to clutch, you can use any RB flywheel on any RB motor, just make sure you get the clutch to suit. I'm fairly sure rb30et is bigger than rb30e from what I've read.

Ok point taken, so the gains from going 71 vs 76 are so negligible its not worth it, and a 76 provides a much higher ceiling for similar response. I'm still curious though, what is the likely change in response/spool time?

Uhh I never said that? Don't put words in my mouth. I said if 280kw is about the limit for the street then what is the point in going the 76? You are just going to make more peak power/torque for a slight loss in spool. Why not keep that increase in spool? I didn't realise there was that little difference though, what kind of spool differences would be expected between the two? If it really is nothing then I see your point.

I guess my thinking was anything much over 280kw on the street isn't really usable so by going the 71 you gain a bit of extra response/midrange and the car will probably end up being faster.

How much of a spool increase is usual with a twin scroll, 200rpm? more less?

I doubt they will do that either as they still provided you with a service.

How does everyone think a twin scroll GT3071R would go on an rb25det with the appropriate power, would it come on much sooner than it already does? and if so what about peak power, would it be basically the same? Would external gate vs internal make much difference? I'm trying to figure out what the ultimate combo for response and around 280kw would be.

I also highly doubt they will do it for free, no one works for free, hell even when they have stuffed up a lot of places still charge.

At least read the first post...

Diesel engines have mechanical fuel pumps, if the engine stalls the engine stops pumping fuel, if there is a fuel leak then the engine will almost certainly stall due to the MASSIVE pressure the lines are under, but being metal lines they almost certainly wouldn't leak. So basically you have an accident in a truck as soon as there is a fuel leak that could cause a fire the engine basically stalls anyway, hence stopping the fuel pumping into the fire. In a petrol engine if they crash and stall the electric pump will keep pumping regardless. Also diesel isn't as flammable as petrol.