Rolls

he is STATUS

and one more, man this guy sure is reckless

If you want to pay and organise it sure.

bump, someone buy these bitches cheap as

badump

Yeah if you swapped the TPS you could do it, more the plumbing I was concerned about, not sure how different everything shapes up, lengths etc. Would need to change the injector loom though as the plugs are no doubt different.

I am using all R32 loom up to the ignitor, I chopped the old plug off and used the R34 coils that have the ignitor built in and wired a nice new deutsch plug on the end removing the ignitor, plug looks better than factory! about $35 for all the pins etc but I know it will last forever now. Using rb20det R32 ecu with a nistune module, R34 cas rewired (pin out is different) 1-4 2-3 3-4 4-1, Z32 afm and S1 r33 intake manifold with aux air valve, throttle body, tps etc. Basically looks like S1 rb25det everything with r34 coils. Try and get a complete R33 intake/fuel setup etc as the r34 sensors etc are all different, different coolant lines etc, different fuel rail and injector loom, so have no idea how it would all mount up.

I don't know the answer but at the end of the day I highly doubt it is going to matter. Perhaps email the oil manafacturers themselves?

Ah makes sense, no wonder I was confused.

There you go simon : )

I would aim for ~4kg max at the front for a street car, rear I am not too sure, fix your roll with sway bars, not stiffer springs. Perhaps post a thread asking this specific question as I don't think many people still read this thread. Also don't lower the car too much, it stuffs up the geometry.

Yeah I am more just curious for the future, not set on upgrading just yet, might just stay with what I have as from a legality point it is win, passes regency without changing anything.

How much would the power band change between the 2 do you think? 3k vs 3.5k? would they both hold until redline?

any update with the tear down?

I considered using an OP6 rear end, probably the best option considering its a street car

what's the difference with the 20g SL2 ? Basically I'm curious what will better my GCG highflowed rb20 turbo, it has ~GT28 ish spec internals and makes 240rwkw currently, awesome response but dives over too early, would be nice to say increase the response from 3000 rpm to 3500rpm max and hold the power to 7.5k instead of diving over at 6.5k

yeah Id still rather see dyno sheets

What is the next size down from the TD06SL2-20g 10cm which would make ~260-270kw? Sounds like that would come on just after 3k which would be amazing for a street car.

Get new plugs (0.8mm gap!) as that is something you should do for a service anyway. Whilst you are doing this check all the coil packs for signs of arcing via scald marks, there is a few guides on here for taping and glueing them up, look at the 'misfire at 4500-5500 rpm' thread, your question has been asked thousands of times there. These are cheap and easy things to do, once you have cash get a nistune and get the car properly tuned, will set you back about $500 and will make a BIG difference, highly recommended. All things you will need to do if you want to mod the car further in the future. New fuel pump like you mentioned it already has is a great mod as well, good to see you are learning, best way is to do lots of searching on here, then if still in doubt ask away!

PSI has nothing to do with it and air flow has everything to do with it, greater PSI = more airflow with everything else the same, but as soon as you change things it isn't comparable. A larger turbo = less restriction, bigger exhaust = less restriction, so does different intercooler etc. R&R isn't a function or line, it is just a slow progression of the map, if you look at the stock fuel map it is just the higher load/air flow parts of the map, it slowly gets richer and more retarded, it isn't like the knock map where it is either active or it isn't. it is entirely possible at 10psi with r34 turbo, that would be more than double the airflow of the stock turbo at 7psi hence they make 180-190kw instead of 120kw.

Yeah that's the thing, if there are turbo's that do outperform the garret ones I just don't know about them, not going to go buy 3 turbo's to figure it out myself. Oh well.

Could be a combination of these common issues or just one of them, I am certain it is one of them though as your symptoms are incredibly common. The R&R part of the map in the ECU is being used, the rich and retarded bit, this is due to the extra airflow from your rb25 turbo and running ~10psi is putting A LOT more air through the engine, the R&R part of the map usually drops the AFR down to 10:1 or even lower, went down to 9:1 on my old engine. This can cause a rich misfire and really really sucks the power. Now the other thing is old coil packs with cracks in them, skylines are getting on now and most of the coil packs are on the verge of shitting them selves, now on standard boost they are often fine but when you get a really rich mixture like you are almost certainly getting now with the weak spark these old coils provide the spark could be getting blown out also causing a misfire. The last problem is old spark plugs or spark plugs with a greater than 0.8mm gap, these have more of a tendency to have a weaker spark due to the larger gap, coupled with the above issues could compound the problem. How to resolve this? First thing is check the coilpacks for cracks, there are lots of guides how to tape and glue them up, this might fix your issue, is is basically free to try anyway. If not splitfires are a drop in replacement and should solve part of the problem. The next step is an ECU remap via a nistune (cheapest) this will allow the tuner to tune out the R&R section of the map and this alone might fix the issue allowing you to use even your old stuffed coils still. I recommend doing all 3, more power from the tune, better economy and a smoother motor, better spark is always a good thing as well, so replace the plugs and coils if they are old. edit: Cheap fix? turn the boost down to stock level ~8psi with a free flowing exhaust, this will almost certainly fix it, but if you want the higher boost do the above. If using an rb20 actuator you can get 10-12psi with no boost controller just via a free flowing exhaust, if this is the case then you really have to do the above.

So what is the general consensus of the equivalent GT3071/76 in BW flavour? Any comparisons to show if the BW is worth looking at for this power range (260-300kw) on a 2.5L ?

Considering how good the results are (~300kw on 98 and ~340kw on e85) and spool is around the 3500-4000rpm mark, what is the next size down turbo? As if it makes say ~280kw and is spooled completely by low 3k to 3500, sounds like it might be a GT3071 killer for response. Or is it possible to just get a smaller hot side with similar results?

rb20 injectors are 14ohms, gtr injectors are 4 ohms hence 10 ohm is needed I=V/R 12V / 14 ohm approx 10 ohm resistor + injector (4 ohms) = 0.857A P=VI 12V X 0.857A =10.3 Watts same as everyone else, 10W and 10 Ohm