OMY31T

dammit i was looking forward to this event, but i have to take the mrs to somthing she has one... GRRRRR, oh well looks like i wont be out again until the car comes back from being tuned

thanks guys. im pretty gutted that im getting rid of it, but with 2 kids.. my own business to run, and a stagea to build, i really dont have the time. was going to get a powerglide or c4 gearbox built for it and just use for straight line work and slowly upgrade it bit by bit, which is why i let the rego run out. with a few $$$ thrown at it, it could easliy see over 300rwkw and be totally streetable, the turbo is great, no where near as laggy as a GT35.. with as good power as one.

you shouldnt need bigger wiring in the tank... the only reason for the 8 guage from the battery is so that you dont lose voltage over a long run of wire.. as far as im aware, the stock wiring is easily capable of 13.8v from the relay to the pump. cheers.

need this thing gone, owes me well over 10k, but dont have the time for it anymore. it needs a new gearbox, its currently auto, but has no 3rd or overdrive, it died on the dyno after the new turbo setup went in. i have done less than 1000kms in it since trent @ status tuned it at the end of last yr. is no longer regod, apart from the box and some cosmetic things, theres nothing wrong with this car at all... come and see it, ill take you for a drive, its mechanically perfect. it made 255rwkw on 17psi when the gearbox started to go. its was only on 98 pump fuel, didnt even get to tune it on e85. it will easily make over 300rwkw with a fix things changed around in the turbo setup. looking for $4500 for a quick sale, need cash for another project. number plates not included in sale. thanks. exterior s2 stout type R carbon fibre bonnet interior autometer cobalt boost guage custom fitted in dash apexi turbo timer pioneer double din head unit blue/red LED dash kit colour matched dash insert genuine nissan floor mats aftermarket 3 way speakers in the front doors... clarion i think suspension and handling Cusco front strut brace Cusco rear strut brace HKS hypermax II coilovers all round - bound/rebound/height adjustable tie rod ends have recently been done. 17" r34 GTT rims - 225/45 on the front 90% tread - 235/45 on the back 50% tread engine and drivetrain Apexi PowerFC z32 afm 700cc injectors walbro 255 litre per hour fuel pump splitfire coilpacks XRacing bar and plate FMIC 3" in and out near new custom 2.5" intercooler pipework all silicon and t-clamp joins 3" exhaust, the front pipe is compltetely custom made and is less than 1000kms old made from 304 grade stainless, the middle pipe is from my old hks super dragger exhaust and is 3" mild steel, with a 3" stainless rear pipe, only a cat, resonator and 1 muffler(loud). 44mm external wastegate 17psi spring, plumbed back in the exhaust. less than 1000kms old XSPower stainless highmount, hpc coated black. less than 1000kms old KAMAK T67-25G turbo with .82 rear, less than 1000kms old XTR turbo beanie Blitz suspower pod filter oil catch can relocated power steering reservior PWR Gearbox oil Cooler

i have 19x8.5 Koya Endless rims with 235/35's on my rs4s with a +12 offset and lots of low. the rear tyres tuck up nice, the fronts needed rolling because the tyres just scrubbed at full lock. be warned, even at +12 and 235 wide, when i put somthign heavy in the back, i scrubbed the whole inside wall off my tyre on my coilover upper nut.... and my tyres have a very curved sidewall, so be carful of camber when lowering i learnt the hard way.

to bad i was wrong, you need the 45 degree sock for your C34 pump, the one supplied is actually to big, i ended up using the original sock from my stock pump. the install was a piece of cake in the stagea, much easier than my r33 was with the same pump. cheers

scotty i have seen somthing posted elsewhere with regards to cooling on the return line. ill find it for you, somthing sydney kid posted from memory. EDIT: have a look at this http://www.skylinesa...ost__p__1664761 i found some on ebay http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Moroso-Fuel-Cooler-Aluminum-Heat-Sink-Polyethylene-Shell-Mounting-Hardware-/390441461633?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5ae81fe781 or these might be worth the money... http://www.ebay.com....=item20c78de26f and i also found these fuel coolers ROFL http://www.ebay.com....=item4ab9e29bea hahaha i think ill just wire it straight in, its tried, tested and works. if i have fuel temp issues ill deal with it when it happens.

because i sit in alot of traffic, and i wanted to avoid heating up the fuel on hot days in summer....

hey guys, im doing this mod atm, and ive been wondering whether this would work or not. im running a dual stage boost controller off a switch in my dash. im wondering if i run the battery 12v feed to my relay, and then run a positive feed from my dual stage switch to make the relay switch on and off, and then tap the battery 12v feed from the relay into the std pump positive feed would this cause any issues? doing it that way, i can still run the reduced voltage when im just cruising around the streets on low boost, and if i want to give it a boot full and switch over to high boost(low boost is only 10 psi so the pump will suffice without the extra volts) it will pump the extra voltage from the direct feed into my fuel pump to get the max out of it. this in theory should work, but what im worried about is the extra voltage running back up the line on the stock wiring to the stock relay and causing a problem. it would have been good to beable to shut off the stock pump wiring altogether to switch between the 2 power feeds, but the issue there is when the lines switch there will be a momontary lapse in power to the pump. is it worth a try or should i just run it at max all the time, your thoughts? cheers.

hey guys, im doing this mod atm, and ive been wondering wether this would work or not. im running a dual stage boost controller off a switch in my dash. im wondering if i run the battery 12v feed to my relay, and then run a positive feed from my dual stage switch to make the relay switch on and off, and then tap the battery 12v feed from the relay into the std pump positive feed would this cause any issues? doing it that way, i can still run the reduced voltage when im just cruising around the streets on low boost, and if i want to give it a boot full and switch over to high boost(low boost is only 10 psi so the pump will suffice without the extra volts) it will pump the extra voltage from the direct feed into my fuel pump to get the max out of it. this in theory should work, but what im worried about is the extra voltage running back up the line on the stock wiring to the stock relay and causing a problem. it would have been good to beable to shut off the stock pump wiring altogether, but the issue there is when the lines switch there will be a momontary lapse in power to the pump. is it worth a try or should i just run it at max all the time?

looks like im going to go for a highflow after all that. i talked to stao, and he suggested that if im not planning on going highmount in the future to make bigger numbers with the ATR43G3, then i might aswell highflow. as said above the extra 20 or so kw, is not worth it with the G3 when i can have the highflow with only slightly less response than standard, and being a heavier car the response is probably more benefical than the 20kw. cheers for the help guys, looks like ive got it all sorted.

touche pipster and 533 ryc. thank you for the inforamtive posts, and advice, im quite happy to read it. i just dont appreciate being flamed for no reason by others, the other setup it had obviously didnt work, it was like that when i bought it, but not once did is i say garrett was shit in my original post, i was just a bit unsure of that turbo as i had a bad experience with it. i have had good experiences with garrett turbos and im still learning alot about the setup of these things which is why i like to go a different route, why do the same thing as everyone else. cheers. now can we move on? i will talk to stao directly insted of my tuner, my only issue is having a car for a week while a highflow is getting done. the pump went in today without a drama, hopefully ill have my sard injectors in a week or 2, then i just need to sort the turbo, and put it in for a nstune and tune.

mmm maybe anyway, that car is another story altogether, so i dont even know why we are on the subject, the car is now a T67 highmount... and a GT is totally different the a GTX large frame turbo the inducer and exducer is larger in size just for starters..., not to mention mine was only an a/r 60 compressor housing with antisurge, not the larger a/r 70 because it couldnt be low mounted, i bought the car like that, i didnt do the garrett build, and i made as much power with the setup i did as i could have with a GT35, and it cost me half the money to build it. anyway, my biggest issue is that i cant drive my other car for a week while waiting for a highflow.. 3rd gear is blown, end of story, the stag is my daily, id be hard pressed to even be without it for a weekend. anyway, at the end of the day, its up to me how i build the thing, i take the advice into consideration, but not the flaming dicks, if i dont like the GT30 garret i had, so be it, i dont have to.

i will blame the turbo because as you stated, internal gate is shit... guess what, on other internal gate setups, much higher figures are available than that of a garret internal setup. i never said "garrett" was shit, just thier internal gated turbos, i could have easly thrown a .82 rear on it with external gate and seen up around 300rwkw no worries, but i dont want to go down that road. ive had plenty of garret setups over the years and would use garrett everyday of the week over most other turbos, but not in this particular setup. i hope that explains better. and also, it was a nissan 6 bolt housing, and im using the same thing again.

the reason behind the G3 was to fit the largest low mounted internal gate turbo i could. testing shows the G3 with a .82b rear housing can make up to 290rwkw @ 20psi on 98 pump fuel. i know that i might lose some response, but hell my other car is t67, with a hi-stall and auto... so this will be like a dream for me hahaha. as for doing it all, i do all my own work, i never take my car to a shop unless i really need to. occasionally ill get somthing fabricated, but i still normally do it myself, the only time i get work done is tuning. i wouldnt even know where to start, nor do i have the cash laying around to blow up an engine trying to tune it hahah. garret is.... well i dont know, i had a lowmounted GT3076 on my skyline originally, .63 rear, internally gated, and i couldnt get a drop more than 225rwkw, which is why im not even bothering with them this time round. $1200 off the shelf hypergear, dyno proven, decent quality.... ill take my chances, i did with my t67, bought a kinugawa(kamak) turbo off ebay, and its proven worthy time and time again, as they have with outher forum members. cheers.

thats ok if you can spare the time to pull the turbo and have it flowed + im sure its more expensive to have it flowed than buy one off the shelf?? but i could be wrong..

i have an rs4s, so factory manual. im pretty much sold on a hypergear ATR43G3 with a .82b internally gated housing. i have an r33 aswell that i went all out on last time, and im sick of the defects, so im trying to get as much out of the stag as i can and keep it as stock looking as possible. i should easily make 250rwkw @ 18psi with what ive got according to DMD tuning but ill wait and see i guess, if it falls short, i might look at getting some poncams put in it. my main concern atm is my clutch, its feels great but im not sure if its stock, i might have to try and have a look, it had a few mods when it came to me from japan, so im not sure what its got in it, if i need to replace it, im looking at an NPC organic single with flywheel.

finally got around to purchasing some injectors for my build. bought a set of Sard 650cc injectors at a really good price they should go well with the walbro i think. got a turbosmart dual stage boost controller in, just not hooked up yet, need to get a z32 afm, and purchase my turbo, then into DMD Tuning for a nistune for a hopeful 280rwkw.

hi guys, email this guy if you want a GSS342 255l/h pump for your stag. the cheapest ive seen these is $110 on ebay, this guy says he has 8 @ $60 each. i looked up the part number and it is the genuine walbro USA made pump. the item has ended because i bought that one from him, but email him, he might still have some please read the description nto sure about m35, but for c34 you need the STRAIGHT strainer not the 45 degrees one, you need to tell him this in your emails. ITEM: http://www.ebay.com....984.m1439.l2649 EMAIL: cj71@live.com.au

FMIC went in today, and carbon bonnet got a few new coats of clear , setup wiring for fuel pump voltage mod ready for when it arrives.

$600 for the injectors? :D u know u wanna.

hey guys, wondering what clutch i should buy for my s2 rs4s. im in the process of finishing off what should be an easy 250rwkw build, possibly up around 280rwkw. so its time to talk clutches, although my clutch feels like its new, and i dont even know if its stock, so ill have to check that out first, but it definatly feels light as a feather so id say it is stock. anyway, ideas on what to buy, preferably exedy because i know i can get them at cost(my dads builds heads, and reco's/sells clutches for a living in his own workshop in sydney). so i was thinking somthing down the line of an excedy hypersingle to hold this sort of power, im not sure and its pointless talking to my old man, once he hears the word import, thats the end of it haha he builds harleys and old aussie v8's for a hobby, nuff said. cheers.

nope, blown auto, i was in the process of getting a box for it, but have decided to put money into the stagea instead, somthing a bit different from the 33, my stag is manual aswell.

goodbye to kando for me, im selling my t67 setup to put more money into my stagea, going to be missed, much love for my t67.

bought some new upgrades over the weekend, dual stage turbosmart boost controller, cooling pro FMIC kit, 550cc bosch injectors, walbro gss342 pump.hopefully my r33 will sell pretty quick so i can buy a hypergear tr43, lowmount manifold, and nistune to get it all sorted before sau nationals this year