chrissso

Hi Ben, I take it that the bearings were ok? Do you need to change the pulleys on the bearings over or anything? Any other dramas or things to remember? Thanks Chris

SK - I bought the car not long ago with all mods mentioned and I'm pretty sure that its a standard turbo and std wastegate. My resarch is only from internet and is mostly hear say so it could be BS. I picked up something along the lines of " a dump pipe makes the std turbo breath better and need a bigger waste gate.." My therory is that the ibc will be able to increase boost down low and then provide std boost up high which is 10psi on my car, up high. Maybe the actuator is buggered. It will open all the way when you pull it. Maybe I need a softer spring? Any ideas? I will try locking the wastegate open... Thanks!

This thread is great and I shallbe buying the EBC to see if I can fix a problem that I have. SK - I have a couple of quick questions for you if I may. q.1, I have a dump pipe on my turbo (R33 s1 man) and with no solenoid connected, I get 6 PSI at 2200rpm to 4000rpm. After that the boost rises to 10PSI at about 6000rpm. I have researched this problem and it would seem that the factory wastegate is not able to waste enough ehaust to keep the PSI at 6. I want 10 PSI throughout the rev range and if I fit a bleed valve it brings the low rpm boost to 10 but the the boost still creeps up to about 14PSI. - too much. So, the question is do you think that the ebc will be able to get my 10psi at low revs and then by opening the solenoid up further at high revs, keep the psi at 10? All the reading I've done indicates that it would - it would be a case of tuning exactly the opposite to what you have done in the higher revs. Q. 2, I've been looking into the Apexi safc and one of it features is that it will stop overfuelling for atmospheric BOV's. Any Idea how this works? would the DFA do anything here? Q.3, I also have a FMIC and the safc also claims to even out the eratic idle caused by front mounts.. Any idea's here? I'm lookin at buying the DFA now after reading this thread but maybe the safc is what I need because of some of the extra's that I have. In the end, I can't justify the extra money for a safc to stop overfuelling and a slightly bad idle. This DFA would be a good idea though untill I get to a stage where I would probably buy a Power FC. Also, thanks to SK and everyone for an entertaining read - I've just ordered the performance electrics book. :lol: Chris

Titanium is really light and strong. So in profesional drag and race, it's good. $200 bucks extra sound good though. I'm pretty sure it used to cost more than that. M2C...

Hey D 33, did you find that when you sorted your bleed valve issue that boost when straight to 10PSI and then stayed there for the rest of the rev range? I fitted one of simarks turbotechs and found that it increased boost from 5-10 psi to 8-13 PSI. Still had the boost rising problem though, just higher up now... Has anyone fixed this issue. From D33's post it seems that it is.

Anyone?

Hi All, Just got a quick question. First of all, I have an r33 with a rb25t with following mods. turbo dump pipe and 3" exhaust, fmic. Please note that the boost solenoid is NOT connected. When I open the throttle, Boost comes up to 5PSI at 2200rpm and then increase gradually throughout the rev range to about 10 PSI at 6000rpm. I was wondering if this is normal for the mods that I have. Does anyone else have this? Your input would be appreciated as I'm trying to find out if this is normal or my actuator is buggered or will only open so far, etc. Thanks...

Mine started spitting againg...... D'oh So I'm pulling those colis out again for inspection.. joy. I'll let you all know how the areldite held up. Chris

Leaky hose?

boost

It also seems aparent that only the series 1 and maybe 1.5 R33 coils have a spliting problem. With that said, all you peopleout there wih GTT's and series 2 R33's with misfire problems, might want to look at something else for your misfire issues. e.g. plug gap, etc. I put in some plugs recommended in this thread by someone - they are gapped at .8mm and are copper. Andat about $4 a plug- are alot cheaper than iridium!!! My 2 cent.

I got mine working properly!!! Runs 8 lbs at the very lowest setting. The boost still creeps up to 12PSI at high revs though. Must be the dump pipe and the K&N pod that does this... Happy though...

Howdy all. Does anyone have any feedback on the difference that these make? Might get one myself as the skyline is running rich. I think from the mods - atmo BOV, fmic and dump. You can dyno tune these right?

Hey, Have you checked your spark plug gap? What boost and mods U running? Just curious... Haing a look back in the thread, it seems that most problems are either cracked coils or bad spark plug gap. If it wasn't this then it was fuel problems.... like fuel cut or blocked injectors...

Hey, It all depends on whether urethane is heat proof and has good electrical insualtive qualities. Basically you need to insulate the coil packs from arcing if there is a crack in them. Use whatever, as long as its heatproof to about 130 deg c and is an electrical insulator. Chris

Howdy 'yall. Just thought I'd mention that I had the problem, checked my colis and found 4 out of 6 coils had cracks. I areldited them up and the misfire has gone. It's been 2 weeks now. Thanks to all who contributed. Chris

It's one that fits the intercooler. I'm not sure of the specs but it is low. Just 110mm off the ground with standard springs. The car was lowered but it was too low at the front for legalities and the ride was shite. Are you looking at getting one yourself?

Anyone want to make an offer? PM me.

Oh, and the cooling and air con systems were just serviced.

Hey Guys, Any feedback and comments would be good. You can email me at [email protected]

Hi all, Unfortunatley I have to sell my skyline because I'm planning a family, so here are some details of it and some pics. Asking $17500 on trading post but will sell to SAU for $17000 ONO. Details:- 1993 R33 Gts25t, wine red, 81000km, 17" wheels with new 235 tyres, Big FMIC, Body kit, GBF Bov, Custom stainless I/C plumbing, JVC head unit, turbo timer, really clean interior, very straight panels, pod filter with cold air sheild, run no more than 9 pounds, brand new sparkys, brand new dakin excedy Heavy duty clutch, 3" turbo back exhaust, boost guage, 2 point self arming Mongoose immobiliser with remote keyless entry. If interested,Please call me on 0427762040. Any quick questions, just post! The car is located on the Gold Coast. Thanks Chris

Yeah, I have boost creep then. Loosk like its not going over 10psi so it should be right. I will monitor. I have removed the turbotech and the solenoid in the mean time to see if it still creeps.

Can someone please explain what spikeing is? I thought it was when you put your foot down and the boost reaches 1-2 psi over what it should be and then settles down to what it should be... This last post would indicate that spikeing is when the boost gets higher with the revs... ei 7 psi at 5000 but increases to 9 psi at 6000rpm. Please explain? Thanks BTW, I set my turbotech up as a bleed valve and seems to be working!

Hey Zahos, In regards to regapping the plugs, Did you regap them to .8mm? Chriso

Yeah... I know. I could see what I wanted to see. My actuator is connected to the BOV, wheres your connected? Chris :evil: Edit:- That should read " I couldn't see what I wanted to see. D'oh!