chrissso

Hey, Have you got a multimeter? Check the voltage going to the pump after you turn it on, and then in 2 min when it's noisy. It the voltage drops, do the rewire thing ^ with the relay etc.

Hey, did you get this resolved? In another thread, you have lost spark - maybe, i think that problem isn't resolved either.. Is it possible that you had a short in the ecu and the current isn't making it to the spark plug? Try taking the top cover off the ecu and see if you can see sparks when you rev if. Just a suggestion.

Candy apple red, looks similar to what you have now but looks deep and betterer.

External wastegates are typically for turbo's that don't have internal wastegate. If you think you have a wastegate issue, then you probably need to modify the one you have, i.e. increasing the flow through it by porting it, and a new actuator.

lol... external gate hey? And why do you need that??? The std ECU will rich and retard if the AFM reading hits 5 volts OR the ECU calculates that there is too much airflow for a given RPM.

Just my input... Was reading a thread about oi pumps on SAU, and it seems that some people on here have had an N1 pump let go as well, and not any(bar maybe 1) JUN pump have failed. Obviously, the N1 is better than stock, but going by what I have read from feedback in this other thread, the N1 can fail past a certain power level. You'd have to search to find out what level. So JUN > N1, according to stuff read on SAU.

Sorry for the hijack, but what supporting mods do you need for 8800rpm on an rb20?

Yeah, got an R34 calsonic skyline, It's in my avatar. Haven't got it out for ages though... Heaps of fun when you tape up the wheels. Really slippery.

how high will it rev when you try? 1k, 2k? maybe one of the sensors is not plugged in. tps, afm, etc. check all connections. make sure all your intercooler pipes are conntected and there are no leaks..

When I inquired at Bearing Industries, they did say that if you bring down your old bearing/s, they will match it/them up with new ones. So you can give them the part numbers to see if they have stock, then take your's down and compare before you buy! But, from the above post, it looks like you don't have to worry...

I'm curious, what have you got to back that up?

huh? area or a circle is pie x radius squared radius of a 2 inch pipe is 1 inch 1x1x3.14= 3.14sq inces x2 pipes is 6.28 sqinchs radius of 3"=1.5 1.5x1.5x3.14= 7.065 sqinches. 2 2"inches has more cross-sectional area than 1 3" pipe... you all should go back to school... or am I missing the point.... EDIT - looks like I can't add up either. Changed to correct value...

Where are you? Interior pics? Lowered? Tuned? Fuel pump? Cheers...

Are you saying that skylines don't have MAP sensors, or the ECU and even the power fc's, are incableable of tuning from RPM vs MAP? (except for the d-jetro versions.)

Hey all, I have a theory. Alot of cars use MAP sensor and TPS as well RPM to tune the car. (MAFless tune for LS1, ford XR6 Turbo) So why AFM? It's more accurate. So, you could say that the AFM is good for regular driving. For instance, you are driving to work, or crusing the highway, and the engine would be sucking air at a low eough volume that would be inside the resolution of the MAF. But as soon as you plant it the volume of air going through the MAF is too great for it to calculate, however, you could still get a good calcualtion from the MAP,TPS and RPM, ETC... Can't you tune to do this when the MAF maxes out, you could tune the computer just to use the other sensors? Just throwing it out there, sounds plausible... Edited the drunken grammar and vulgarities...

My 2bob... I like black spokes with the rim in brushed steel or chrome. edit-like these ones here!!

That's what I was on about!! De-solve it. Works well on sticky crap.

Big kevs goo remover, or that orange peel stuff...

I'll start off by saying that you might need a larger fuel pump if the pressure in the fuel lines is not enough, or dropping at higher revs. So, for the first question, if you have adequate pressure and you fit a new fuel pump, then the answer is no, you wont benefit. Most of the time, gtst fuel pump don't supply enough pressure because they're old, or whatever, so you will typically benefit. Second question. if your original fuel pump wasn't supplying enough pressure, and you had your car tuned, then you will probably need a retune as the ECU will have been tuned to compensate for the drop in fuel. If you have stock ecu, then the tune will be what it is supposed to be from factory, instead of too lean. However, stock tunes are generally rich anyway, for which you need some kind of aftermarket engine management.

Hey all, I heard this and it might be worth discussing. There'a a Jaycar didgital pulse adjuster, which might be ble to do this. (I think it was this, it's in the 'performace electronics for cars' book) A tuner was going to have a go and do it. I don't know how he went, and if it cost only $175 to do it, p;robably better at the end of the day as the thing cost about 80, plus you need to build it (it's in kit form) and you need the hand controller for it as well. Then you need to tune it, which is dyno time. Now that I've written this, I've no idea why he is going to bother...

Hey, Could be a few things like an alternator, but also seized air con compressor, rooted bearing on the fan belt driven stuff, - power steering for eg. Or other stuff. My aircon seized, and the car would stall when I turned on the A/C. Sorry, but there could be a few things that it might be. Start narrowing stuff down.

Take it to a mechanic with Nissan consult. May help you...

quote bu cef11e Absolutly true, and I would buy tyhe z32, however, it's good to discuss this. I think if someone did a mod to a maf, one that could be accuratly redone by someone else, and then the VQ values worked out, tested, and then posted on here, it might make a cheaper alternaltive. However, I am a believer in the do it once, do it right philosophy and a Z32 would be for me. But again, I like the discussion. quote by animatter I am told that after the MAF maxes out, the ECU tunes by MAP, RPM and throttle position. Heresay though. Thanks

I got mine fdorm Supa Cheap - $15~

Just like to put my comments/opinions in. I have no issues with bodykits and no performance. Rice to me is if it's not done properly. E.g. Seen a completely stock car all over with a massive rear wing. Seen cars stock all over except for a hektik front bar, nothing else. If you go bodykit, get the whole lot, not just the front bar, or just a rear wing. Even if it is extreme/hektik At least the whole car will match. Can't stand older model commodores with newer model body kits. Seen so many VN/VP's with VR bodykits. The car shape on the top doesn't match the car shape on the bottom. Get the bodykit for your model... Dodgy shit is bad, and dangerous. Do it once, DO IT RIGHT... It need not be an expensive exercise. ROFL at the RICE citation, I would agree with it!! As for the 4cyl grommets. I think alot of them can't afford turbo insurance, so a lancer is a good starting platform to start their hobby modificaions. I've been there and done that. I'd say that alot of us have... Thanks