chrissso

Nah, ignition is cut, not fuel. That why you see big backfires on skylines sitting on the revlimiter. I'm curious, please explain when, where, etc, you have seen high knock on a engine reving at the revlimiter? Thanks

Jut thought I'd add my experiences with ethnol. The 98 IFS ethnol stuff did make a difference in power in the wifes mazda, but the economy was not the same. I must explain that I filled a tank and drove normally for the whole tank to see the economy. Other tanks, I did tend to put the foot down to experience the noticable difference in torque. Also, I have a friend that has a VW dune buggy fiberglass thing with a stroker kit, and was setup for drag. They used 100% alcohol in it and the aluminium and other metal component suffered from bad corrosion. Something you wouldn't get with regular fuel. Although that 100% alcohol, you still have to wonder what that extra 10% ethnol would do to some of the metal components in the fuel system.

Yeah, but you can get disk on chip... Solid state. Anyway PC ECU, it's not practical. I think a good idea would be to have a computer giving you all the readouts on a LCD screen installed somwhere in the car, like the dash, or even above the dash and have it reflect off the screen, like a HUD. The pc would plug into the data port of the ecu. When I was at the tuners, he had a diagnostic program that gave you every readout possible, like speed, temp, o2 sensor voltage, MAF voltage, the works! You could almost get rid of all the dials in the dash and use an LCD. I don't know aboout the warning lights though, the ECU may not control all of them, like high beam for instance... But you could also incorporate other things like a reverse camera. Just an idea. The problem is that I though of this a while ago, and the mercedes make an s class that already has all of this. damn Jarmans...

Hey, I don't think you need a hell of a lot of processing power to run a car. Car ecu's are pretty basic as far as mips and speed, compared to todays technology. There really is not a great deal to it, some sensor inputs, calculations, and timing and injectors to control. Some other thing like idle controller etc. No monitor matrixes, or human language to deal with, all binary input and output. Most advances in car computer are in the software. Besides, I found a list of issues that might happen if you proceeded...(for a laugh) 1. Every time they repainted the lines on the road, you'd have to buy a new car. 2. Occasionally your car would just die on the motorway for no reason, and you'd have to restart it. For some strange reason, you'd just accept this, restart and drive on. 3. Occasionally, executing a manoeuvre would cause your car to stop and fail to restart and you'd have to re-install the engine. For some strange reason, you'd just accept this too. 4. You could only have one person in the car at a time, unless you bought a "Car 95" or a "Car NT". But then you'd have to buy more seats. 5. Apple would make a car that was powered by the sun, was twice as reliable, five times as fast, twice as easy to drive - but it would only run on five percent of the roads. 6. Macintosh car owners would get expensive Microsoft upgrades to their cars which would make their cars go much slower. 7. The oil, engine, gas and alternator warning lights would be replaced with a single "General Car Fault" warning light. 8. People would get excited about the "new" features in Microsoft cars, forgetting completely that they had been available in other cars for many years. 9. We'd all have to switch to Microsoft gas and all auto fluids but the packaging would be superb. 10. New seats would force everyone to have the same size butt. 11. The airbag system would say "Are you sure?" before going off. 12. If you were involved in a crash, you would have no idea what happened. 13. They wouldn't build their own engines, but form a cartel with their engine suppliers. The latest engine would have 16 cylinders, multi-point fuel injection and 4 turbos, but it would be a side-valve design so you could use Model-T Ford parts on it. 14. There would be an "Engium Pro" with bigger turbos, but it would be slower on most existing roads. 15. Microsoft cars would have a special radio/cassette player which would only be able to listen to Microsoft FM, and play Microsoft Cassettes. Unless of course, you buy the upgrade to use existing stuff. 16. Microsoft would do so well, because even though they don't own any roads, all of the road manufacturers would give away Microsoft cars free, including IBM! 17. If you still ran old versions of car (ie. CarDOS 6.22/CarWIN 3.11), then you would be called old fashioned, but you would be able to drive much faster, and on more roads! 18. If you couldn't afford to buy a new car, then you could just borrow your friends, and then copy it. 19. Whenever you bought a car, you would have to reorganise the ignition for a few days before it worked. 20. You would need to buy an upgrade to run cars on a motorway next to each other.

Yeah, get someone to look at it. It could be so many things... Also, I've had a walbro that I bought off this forum , and had no problem, however, there are alot of people who have been bellyaching about them because they bought a walbro off ebay and its rubbish. Basicly, there are a lot of fakes, and you want to make sure your getting a genuine item. On the ebay add, it says in it's rated to 500hp, this is crap. More like 350rwhp. Base timing is set at 15 from the factory. Are you sure you have it set at 25? souunds high. Get a mechanic to check it if your not sure. 175 kw is not bad. Not bad at all, in non shoot out that is. you haven't specified. With those power levels, your obviously running more boost. If you have no aftermarket engine management, then you possibly have a case of the computer richening the mixture, as a typical skyline ecu will do when more boost is added. This will cause a misfire which sounds like the problems you describe. There are a whole lot of other reasons why a misfire would happen as well. Plug gap, coil packs, etc. Search for misfire!! If anything, replacing the fuel pump will make the misfire worse. (not a bad thing if you fuel pump is dodgey, you just need a "safc" or a power fc computer). Rizzo

hEY kURSK, So, tell us, why did you switch from the cefy to the 180, and then from the 180 to the series 2 r33? Which i best or what do you like about each, why,etc. Thanks

SOLD!!!

What fun

Yeah, I'd like get rid of this baby for $14500, Need the cash...

oI had this too and it wa the level sender had fallen off. To answer your question, No. You have to open the tank from the boot. There is an 6-8" hole in the tank in the boot behind the partition, under a metal plate that is screwed down by 4 screws. There is a big cap screwed onto it that has 2 plugs and 3 hoses. You need to remove all the plugs and hoses and open it with a hunk of wood and a rubber mallet. Check out in the DIY section adn look for fuel pump install for instructions on how to open the tank. DON'T FORGET to disconect the battery and remove before doing this...big badda boom.

Price reduction - $15500

Out of all the waxes I've tried, I found NuFinish easiest to apply and buff, and gives a nice shine. Anyone else used it?

Still caused from a surge buddy. Noise comes from pod and sometimes bov.

This is basicly what ^ said with some instructions. Make sure car is off... Take off the blue hose from the BOV and undo the bolt with the red circle around it one revolution. Then reconect the Blue hose. Start car and test. Repeat all steps until you are satified.

Clicky on the signature...

Yeah!! Hey, my car is $20000. Offer me $16000 and its yours..

Huh? This doesn't make sense. Please clarify. 98 ron fuel is better, less ping. Is it just a typo? Sky_hi Are you sure its a ping? How do you know it's not a misfire? I'm going by your post, it would seem that you are using the std computer - what mods do you have? You can adjust the timing by unscrewing the crank angle sensor, and twisting it. This is the thing on the front top end of the motor. You will need a timing light. And you will need to know what the marks on the pulleys at the bottom front mean. If you retard the timing and it gets worse,then its probably a misfire. If you have mods, this make a std ECU run rich, and will give you said misfire, especially on cold nights.

Hey, Did you bleed the air out near the plenum? pull out the thermostat and see if it over heats then...

I was at the v8s and missed that bastard - anyone got a link to download?

This is IMO absolutley ECU. To back it up. I have a Jaycar DFA - it's a air flow voltage adjuster that works like a safc. The DFA has a switching mechanism that turns on the voltage regulation, only atfer the car has started. I installed it and had it tuned and my car was going well, with no misfire. It had repaired colipacks and spark gapped at 0.8mm. Anyway, one night, my car seemed sluggish at 10psi. This was at the start of winter this year. Then on cold nights, it would pop and fart and misfire etc. After checking things out, I found that the adjustment for the DFA to kick in after the car had started was out, and not kicking in. The original afm voltage was being put though to the ECU. After recalibrating the DFA so it would kick, the car went better than ever, all problems solved. It would seem that on cold nights, the air is denser ^whatBHDavesaid^ and your ecu dumps heaps of fuel in making the mixture rich. This will cause misfire. It's like a protection mode. Seems to happen with engines fitted with pods and intercoolers more frequently. Now your colis might not be good enough, but I would think that if your colis are stuffed, you would get the misfire all of the time, and not just when cold. So your solution IMO is to get an apexi Power FC Computer, or an apexi SACF2 , or build a Jaycard DFA. Then get whatever you pick tuned. I also netted a 20kw or more gain with the DFA. If I get more money, (and I don't sell the skyline) I will be buying a Power FC from a group buy from the forum. Chriso

Hey Glaze, You can retune a stock r32 computer - not r33 or r34 though. Skylines run typically rich so a tune will most probably next some power gain and fuel economy.

Here's a list of issues that cause tis common problem. Are the plugs in properly? - reseat. Are the plugs the correct heat range? - std is 5. 6 and 7 should also be ok. Are the plugs gapped to 0.8mm - std plugs are 1.1mm, regapped to 0.8mm makes a sturdier spark. Are your coil packs old and fcuked? - epoxy old ones or get new ones. It could be running rich. - ECU adds more fuel than fuel needed running more boost. This can cause misfire. - Need aftermarket ECU or piggy back cumputer and tune. It could be running lean. -fuel pump not supplying enough fuel to the engine, causing it to ping and the ecu hears this by microphones and cuts/retards the ignition. - need a fuel pump, common in early 33's Most probably your issue is a combo of running rich, which skylines do in the cold, and dodgy colial pack and/or spark plugs. The good news is that your engine is most probably OK.

Sounds like you may have a boost leak. Check all of you intercooler plumbing for loose clamps and plumbing that has blown apart.

Correct me if I'm wrong but turbos need to run richer to prevent detonation, say 12.5/1, and N/A cars can run leaner, more like 13-13.5/1 - they are less prone to detonation.

Well, you need a timing light. Then put a mark on the cas and the plate that it sits on so you know where your start point is. clamp the timing light onto cylinder one lead. I saw it dont by resting the sensor ontop of coilpack ocvers once - it worked. Then you undo 3 bolts holding the cas on and twist it while looking at the marks on the main drive pulley.. There should be some marks that line up with it. Then bolt it up when you have achieved you desired timing. I don't know which way toturn it to retard it. It's not real hard to figure that out when your doing it though.