chrissso

I don't think it makes a difference as the fuel pressure should only change with boost - not vacuum. As is my understanding anyway... SO my answer is both...

I think Jaycar do a cheap version of dynamat. I coun;d vouch for its quality, but Jaycar stuff isn't terrible!!

Hey BSK. Can you give us more info? When you said all belts, is that all fan belts AND the timing belt? How many km on the clock? Timing belts can be noisy if old, or aftermarket. Bit of a whiney noise Could be bearings ^. They sound like a metalic whiring noise.

Also, your battery might not be cranking enough amps, but be fully charged. You can get it load tested at the battery shop.

Hey, just for some input. I threw some tyres on my old pulsar that I'd had lying around for a short term fix but because they were different diameters, that is bigger on the front, the front revolved slightly slower than the back. The abs picked this up as the front wheel locking up under breaks. It wouldn't let me brake like before. It was kicking in so early that it was dangerous. I pulled a fuse and turned off the ABS. Its a really long shot, and probably not your issue, but I'm just trying to help.

Get your wheels reballanced. Happend to a mateof mine where this happened, and it was just the ballancing was out a bit... They though it was a bearing but after she took it back, the tried a quick reballance, fixed the issue. Might be worth a try. Maybe your wheels are egg shaped?

insu is right. If you sit in the passenger seat - it's beside your left foot, behind a plastic kik panel. remove and look there...

holy carp! got shoe horn?

40 psi after the regulator plus whatever boost your running. eg. idle - no boost =4 0 psi foot flat to the floor at 5000rpm plus 10 psi of boost = 50psi fuel pressure.

Well its a bit of a "how long is a peice of string" question. There are so many things that can cause overheating from really simple to really big issues. Examples I have seen. rotten radiator core leaky coolant system blocked coolant system not enough coolant in the system wrong coolant used bad thermostat blown head gasket... These issues will have other symptoms as well to help diagnose the issue. But the main big noticable symptom is overheating. Your gunna have to see a mechanic I had a company car that was overheating, the mechnaic couldn'tfind anything visibly wrong, and blamed it on the head geasket. It was changed and a week after, the car was over heating again. Turned out to be the thermostat wouldn't open and was getting stuck every now and then. Obviously, the boss doesn't use that mechanic anymore...

I'm my experience, higher revs at idle can be a result of over heating, but then it gets to a point where the revs will drop and the engine stalls because it's too hot. When it gets too hot, the coolant starts to boil in the cooling system and the pressure rises. The pressure will keep on building up until it overcomes the weakest point in the cooling system, and blows out of this spot. When this happen, most of the coolant is forced out, and then this only compounds the overheating effect, as there is now not much coolant left. Then, it gets worse from there. Oil boils, and pinging and detonation happen. I just read your other post, and mate, you should have stopped when you saw green liquid on the floor. Leaking coolant means that something is wrong and it only takes 15 minutes to f**k an engine with a bad cooling system. If you see some of the symptoms above, check your temp gauge. If it's high, then something is wrong. It's not always going to tell you if the engine is too hot, but it's a start. Chriso

This is a good question. I have thought this my self, and think that for street use, the ideal combo would be upgraded rotors and pads, maybe calipers on the front, and better pads on the back. You are right about the front doing most the braking, due to weight transfer. So, I guess the obvious thing is upgrade the front before you do the back. More braking in the front is going to help more than more breaking in the rear!

Well, the way you put it, the end is the begining. The pump fails,the water stop circulating, and the car overheats! Some other things that might happen will be... It might sound funny - i.e. not normal. Steam may vent from the under the bonnet. Your temp gauge will be in the red zone.. Then it might seize as the oil turns to carbon..??. Lotys of other nasty stuf, etc, etc. My question...why do you ask?

$10,000,000 for 1000 R32's. That's $10,000 per R32.; Now come on, If I wanted a bulk buy, I would want a cheaper price than taht!!!

I belive that Chiba Osaka Boy can help you out with replacment bulbs which are brighter, but not hid xenon. proper multiplexed HID xenon will cost about $400.

There's a sticker underneath my hood that says use equal to or greater than 95. (93 33 det) However, I' not sure if this was put there during complience or factory. It also says that the ignition timing should be 10 degrees- I thought that it is suposed to be 15. Regardless, all jap cars are suited (timing-ignition maps) to jap fuel, and should be run on 95 or above. I have seen countless threads where people put better fuel in the tank on the dyno and get better results, and less knock.

Try wiring your wastegate wide open. Or disconect the actuator from the wastegate flap so it's wide open. (internal gate right?) Then go for a drive. See what boost you get. If you still get a bar with the wastge wide open, then your waste gate isn't big enough. I had a little problem like this when I fitted a dump pipe and an air pod filter. My guess is the extra breathability of the combined dump and air pod meant that either the wastegate was too small, or the actuator wasn't opening the wastegate enough when it was full extended. Fixed it with a Jaycar Independant electronic boost controller. My max PSI was about 9, so I tuned the IEBC to run 9psi the whole way through the rev range for a flat boost curve. You would have to do the same for 14.7psi I also found that after fitting another pod filter that was more restrictive, boost would start to creep up and then fall off at the top of the range. hope this helps...

I picked up some shell Helix fully synth 5-40 but haven't put it in yet, will it be OK?

Sounds like either one of 2 things. It's running 2 rich and is having trouble igniting - regapped sparks ^ and a piggyback like SAFC ^^^^^ will help fix this. The other is the ECU is pulling back timing and dumping more fuel in because the knock microphones are picking up excessive noise or knocking, which is indicative of another issue. e.g., leaning out, or intake temps are to hot, the list goes on, etc.

candy apple red?

Hello, I need a air con pressure switch that screws into the receiver/dryer in an R33 series 1 It has 4 connectors on the inside. I've tried nissan - the part is x-japan - I would like one sooner than that. I'm just after a second hand one at the moment. I'm on the Gold Coast and have tried Rolins and jap spares at Burleigh I'm going to try alljap. Has anyone else got any ideas of where to check? Is someone wrecking a GTST R33 that has the switch? Please PM me if so! Thanks

Although I know nothing, I have spoken to a tuner who doesn't like th PFC add-on, he prefers the AVCR. His reasons were, (AVCR has ) stabler boost, easier to setup and tune, with option of ironing out spikes at specific rpm, more functions. Though it might have been worth a mention.

How does that screamer pipe sound?

Hey Anyone, I got some Shell Helix ultra fully (sik) synthetic 5w-40. And a valvoline filter. There was some semi-synth 10w-30 - but this ^^ looked better. Is this stuff going to be ok. Can someone tell me so I can return it if it's not good? Thanks

I heard to never use turtle wax ona live port and polish. The consistancy of the turtles they use varies the end product. Making it unreliable. I should know, I have a degree.