justin911

hey ppls im having the same issues with the rear discs.. the barstard wont come off.. ive taken the calipers off.. and besides that i havnt undone any other bolts if im supposed to ?? ive been hitting it / the 5 bolts for an hour.. nothing seems to be happening.. any good ideas ?? also theres 2 little holes on the discs.. theres like a metal screw thing inside them but u cant do anything to it. ???

try spray the sender unit with that contact cleaner stuff.. after my engine was put bak in my car i had a similar thing.. when the car was hot the oil needle would sit on like 1psi at random times. the sender unit was all oily and decrepid looking.

these wheels wont buy themselves.... hurry it up pls

u can borrow mine on tuesday night if you like.. id have to have it bak by thursday night though. Im in armadale

hey ppls i've got 2 stock s15 16" rims for sale. There in very good condition with no gutter marks or anything. I've also sprayed them glossy white. One looks 100%, its all white and shiny and what not, the other is like 90% cause it has a few small ripples in the paint... but some paint thiner or woteva will fix them up real good if you dont like my paintjob.. They come with the nissan centre caps aswell. I believe there the same size, or very similiar to stock r33 rims oh yeah, theres NO tyres on them. $100 + delivery Im in melbourne thanks

ya i found the little barstard the other day.. looks impossible to get out though, all i can see is like 1 bolt

i started the car just now to have a look. I drove about an hour ago so the car is still hot, but the needle is about 0.8cm above the bottom and the pfc rekons its about 63degrees. The middle which it always sits on after about 5 mins of driving is about 84..85 degrees so i think thats working fine like it always has. but ya the idle is fine now cause the car is already warmed up a little bit..

hey ppls for the last few months when my cars idling on a cold start it sits at like 600rpm.. if you start to drive or just touch the throttle it revs fine but then drops to about 300-400 then back to 600. after about 2 mins when the temp gauge has moved up about half a cm its fine and the revs sit on 750rpm or so and dont bounce around. hmm come to think of it when the car is cold shouldnt it sit on like 1000-1200rpm or something higher like that ? anyways i had the bouncing idle problem (but when the car was warm, not cold) a while ago and i cleaned the aac valve and that fixed that up, but im not to sure what to try clean now.. ? I was searching and theres some cold start valve or something ?? where abouts is that ?? is that the same as the air regulator ?? i had a look in the workshop manual, i couldnt see it on my actual car though.. anyone got any pics or any other ideas what it might be ?? thanks

do you have a 3" exhaust ?? cause if you do your boost will change from 7-9psi in a manual r33 (dunno bout auto?) evan if you dont have a boost controller installed. also the bolt in the pipe in your top pic is fine.. its just blocking her off.. if you take the hose that connects to the top thingy on the stock boost solenoid in your pic, and block that off with a bolt, you can get rid of the stock solenoid alltogether... if i recall correctly

also if your about to quit, remember to be 'sick' a couple of days here and there if you have any sick days left seems you dont get them when you leave.

hey ppls just wondering.. whats this thingy that ive circled do ?? cars a r33 gtst.. thanks

which do you prefer in terms of going fast ??? and you better not say the evo and destroy my gtr-owning dream

i got a whiteline swaybar box you can have if you like.. shes pretty big. im in armadale if you want it.

will the coils work in a r33 s2 ??

my little 'nissan skyline owners manual' rekons - normal city driving - not necesary - high speed driving 80km/hr - 20 secs - high speed driving 100km/hr - 60 secs - steep mountain slopes or continued driving above 100km/hr - 120 secs I always have to wait like 30 secs to get into my garage, so i dont bother with one. also on mine when you set the car alarm while the timer is running, the alarm or the immobiliser (i forget which) doesnt work properly... Plus lets face it, people think your retarded when you walk away and your car is still running

the one where they found all the bodies ???

ya mine are like that to.. all shiny and clean looking... i was disapointed cause i was hoping theyd have heaps of crap on em mines a s2 also.

there was a fire in elsternwick today i think.. maybe it was that

ya my car does the same thing.. pretty sure its using more petrol 2 I was told the missing is because my plugs are at 6.x mm or something like that. She's fine when you drive though, doesnt miss at all.. I had a look at my coilpacks last night, they looked pretty good.. not that i no what im realy looking for though

since i got my new turbo the other day my car makes the fluttery noise when im driving with just a little bit of boost sometimes.. never if its above 7psi or so though..if its bad for the turbo how do i make it never do it ?? im using the stock bov and airbox.

i remember when the turbo was off the car i couldnt move the wastegate arm thingy at all with 2 hands.. it was realy tight, if thats good or bad ?? the stock one was heaps easier, you could actualy move it so i shorten the arm thingy to make it spool faster ?? if i play with it and my cars been tuned will it stuff up the tune ?? thanks for ur help

on the topic of wastegates and stuff.. i got a hks 2535 with a adjustable wastegate actuator thingy i think.. in the middle of the arm theres like a bolt that you can move. if i made it tighter or looser what affect would that have on the lag / boost etc ??

wont a 2535 bolt upto the stock water/oil lines ???

maybe take it somewhere else to get her tuned ??