Sydneykid

Hi, I have someone interested, if it falls through I'll let you know. I have a brand new set of fronts that I sourced from Bilstein UK, now revalved and complete with springs to go with the very lightly used rears, if you are interested in a full set. As Duncan has mentioned this is not my job, I sold my suspension business over 10 years ago, but I am here to help when I have the time. To give you some idea of my schedule I was at SMSP for the State Championship for 4 days the weekend before last. Then The Bend for 4 days last week and back at SMSP testing this week, a day visit to One Raceway, then the SMSP Day Night meeting the weekend after. I was hoping to squeeze in a dyno day with Scott on my R32 this week, but that's not going to happen, that's the second time I have had to postpone. Apologies if my responses are slow. Cheers Gary

I currently have someone who is interested in buying the rear set, plus he has asked me to quote him on an equivalent front set, new of course. I'll post up what a new set would cost and you can make a decision then. I noted a bit of discussion on spring rates versus swaybar rates, Duncan has explained my approach very well. What I would add is that if you have high spring rates then it is a PIA to change them if you want to, say, do a track day. Whereas with adj swaybars it's a much easier task. Plus if you find that there is an imbalance in the handling (oversteer vs understeer preference for you) it is relatively easy to change the balance with adj of the swaybars, again much more difficult with springs. On the race cars we don't change spring rates all that often, we do however change damper rates frequently, high speed vs low speed bump and rebound independently. A tuning task not for the inexperienced, driver or engineer. Driver adj swaybars are adj frequently, several times in 20 minute race is not unusual. Cheers Gary

Thanks Dunc, haven't seen you at a race track recently. Cheers Gary

Hi guys, I do have set of rear Stagea Gen1/2 Bilsteins revalved, only used as a test fit for a couple of days. They are height adj coil overs, used strut tops with new sphericals and Whiteline stacked springs, a helper/tender plus a 265lb main spring. If you need fronts I can still source them, but delivery is from Germany so not overnight. Cheers Gary

Mine has had some more work done, JE Pistons, Argo H beam rods, Jun cams, Blitz 4" intercooler etc and it's now a bit over 600 RWHP. Same crank, head, block, oil pump, water pump and a lot of ancillaries, oil cooler, radiator, fan, BOV's etc. Cheers Gary

After maximising the caster (we can never have too much caster on an R32/33/34) I would have gone for 1.0 to 1.5 degrees negative camber on the front and 0.75 to 1.25 degrees negative on the rear. R33GTR are predominantly understeerers due to the ATESSA calibration and HICAS programming, so I also find around 2 mm toe out each side, front and rear, to be beneficial. Having sorted the wheel alignment the choice of dampers is a pretty simple one, I have found Bilstein work well on R32/33/34's due to their sophisticate valving. There's about 300 or so kits utilising Bilsteins in Skylines, Stageas and Silvias running around from the old Group Buy days and the guys seem pretty happy with them. Depending on the budget non adjustable, single adjustable with or without remote canisters or triple adjustable with remote canisters. For non adjustable I'd suggest Kings springs (Lows NOT SuperLows) as Redranger in their infinite wisdom discontinued all Whiteline springs. The Bilsteins I do have my valving specs and come with additional circlip grooves so the cars ride height can be selected prior to fitting them. For R33GTR's I never go lower than 355 mm on the front and 345 mm on the rear (centre of wheel to guard as usual) as the ride deteriorates and the suspension geometry is not designed to operate at lower than height. If finite on car height adjustment is desired then Eibach are the best spring choice. They require the addition of what we call "coil over conversion kits" to the Bilsteins. Always remember that swaybars are by far the best value handling upgrade, road or track. You have my email address if you want to discuss. Hope that helps Cheers Gary

It may or may not be an issue for you, but you should be aware that aftermarket control arms are an instant defect. That's one of the reasons why I have always used adjustable bushes in the OE control arms. Plug for my garage clear out http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/414126-r32-or-s13-oe-rear-arms/ Cheers Gary

Ask them to adjust the "radius rod" in any decent wheel alignment shop and they will go straight to the front of the car Cheers Gary

In an effort to clean out my garage I am selling three Selbys (yellow) swaybars that I had as spares but have never used. They are new, unused, but have a few scratch marks from moving them around my garage. The fitting kits are brand new and still in their packets. BNF19A (equivalent to Whiteline BNF19Z) adjustable front 27 mm swaybar for 200SX S14 and S15 BNF28A (equivalent to Whiteline BNF28Z) adjustable front 24 mm swaybar for R32GTST (it has extra clearance to suite an 8 litre sump) BNR20CA (equivalent to Whiteline BNR20XZ) adjustable rear 22 mm swaybar for Cefiro, S13 & 180SX These bars would sell for around $300 each retail, but I need them gone so $150 each including free freight (Australia only of course) Sorry no pictures as yet, but if you want one please contact me via email on [email protected] Cheers Gary

On the rear we usally call it a traction rod, in lieur of radius rod which is reseerved for the front only. It's called a traction rod because it controls the rear upright in traction ie; tension in a longitudinal direction due to accelleration and braking. Cheers Gary.

In Sydney? Then give Bruce a call at Exceller Steering. tell him i said to call, he will look after you. 26 Exceller Avenue Bankstown NSW 2200 (02) 9790 1745 Settings wise, Front Toe = out 2 mm each side Caster = as much as you can get Camber = you will ned around 4 degrees so when you do the upper control arm bushes makle sure that you get both an inner and an outer kit. Rear Toe = out 3 mm each side Camber = around 2.5 degrees negative should be enough, but make sure to eliminate the rear bump steer as much as possible by adjusting the upper control arm and the traction rod in tandem ie; maintain their relative lengths. If you haven't already done them; 1. Swaybars, by far the best value for money upgrade 2. Rear subframe alignment kit, takes out most of the slop in the rear subframe and can be set for drift traction levels. Cheers Gary

If you are doing any track work then you really need to consider replacing all of the bushes. That's quite a task, both in labour and cost terms. For a good place to start, that would be replacing the upper control arms bushes in the both the front and the rear as well as the front radius rods and the rear traction arms. I would always suggest adjustable bushes as they will give you skope to set the optimum static camber and caster and eliminate some of the dreaded rear bump steer.. Plug for my garage clean out http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/414126-r32-or-s13-oe-rear-arms/ Cheers Gary

Part number BNF28Z B = Bar N = Nissan F = Front 28 = the 28th Nissan bar that has been designed (that one happens to be one of my designs) Z = Adjustable The D bush looks like a GTR one, they are different to the GTST. There should be a part number moulded into the side of the bush. Take a note of it and give Whiteline a call, they can confirm if it s a GTR or GTST D bush Cheers Gary. .

I had a spare pair of front upper control arms for the R33GTST which was stolen a while back, I don't anticipate need ing them for my Stagea. So in an effort to clean out my garage I am selling them. The arms have been checked for straightness, crack tested, media blasted and then powder coated in gloss yellow. A full set of adjustable bushes has been fitted to the inner pivot points, this enables more negative camber for track use (up to 4.5 degrees) than is available with just the outer bushes. Or facilitates removing more camber on extremely low cars.than is available with just the outer bushes. They haven't had any use, just sitting in my garage, so they are pretty much pristine. I recently stripped them down and regreased them, so they are ready to fit straight to a car. Unlike aftermarket arms these are of course 100% road legal. They will fit and Stageas S1 and S2. First in best dressed,I would suggest contacting me via email on [email protected] The inner upper kit costs $150 and the 2 arms were $100 each, I'll throw in the straightness check, the crack testing, media blasting, the powder coating and the kits fitting labour for free, plus I'll ship them for free, within Australia of course.. So the total cost is $350. If wanted I can also supply a Whiteline outer upper camber kit for the old Group Buy price of $185. Cheers Gary

Yep, I need some space in my garage and I have a few good Skylines bits that are in excess of my requirements. So a chance to give something back to the SAU guys. They will fit, R32GT, R32GTST, R32GTS4, R32GTR, Z32 300ZX, Silvia S13 and 180SX. Cheers Gary

I had a spare pair of front upper control arms for the R33GTST which was stolen a while back, so I don't need them. In an effort to clean out my garage I am selling them. The arms have been checked for straightness, crack tested, media blasted and then powder coated in gloss yellow. A full set of adjustable bushes has been fitted to the inner pivot points, this enables more negative camber for track use (up ot 4.5 degrees) than is available with just the outer bushes. Or facilitates removing more camber on extremely low cars.than is available with just the outer bushes. They haven't had any use, just sitting in my garage, so they are pretty much pristine. I recently stripped them down and regreased them, so they are ready to fit straight to a car. Unlike aftermarket arms these are of course 100% road legal. They will fit R33GTST, R33GTT, R33GTS4, R33GTR, R34GTT, R34GT, R34GTS4, R34GTR and Stageas S1 and S2. First in best dressed,I would suggest contacting me via email on [email protected] The inner upper kit costs $150 and the 2 arms were $100 each, I'll throw in the straightness check, the crack testing, media blasting, the powder coating and the kits fitting labour for free, plus I'll ship them for free, within Australia of course.. So the total cost is $350. If wanted I can also supply a Whiteline outer upper camber kit for the old Group Buy price of $185. Cheers Gary

For my R32GTST race car I had three spare sets of rear control arms set up ready to go in case of damage. In 4 years I haven't needed to use one set let alone three. In an effort to clean out my garage I am selling a set. The arms have been checked for straightness, crack tested, media blasted and then powder coated in gloss black. A full set of Whiteline adjustable bushes has been fitted to both upper control arms and traction rods. They haven't had any use, just sitting in my garage, so they have a few very minor marks from me moving them around. I recently stripped them down and regreased them, so they are ready to fit straight to a car. Unlike aftermarket arms these are of course 100% road legal. First in best dressed,I would suggest contacting me via email on [email protected] The Whiteline kits cost $125 each and there are two, the 4 arms were $50 each, I'll throw in the straightness check, the crack testing, media blasting, the powder coating and the kits fitting labour for free, plus I'll ship them for free, within Australia of course.. So the total cost is $450. . . Cheers Gary

Hi Mark, thanks for the email it was a prompter for me to take a few minutes and get back to this thread. Over the years I have used a suite of fixes for the RB's propensity to pump oil into the inlet system and or catch can. Depending on the condition of the engine and the size of oil pump used, there are a number of things that can be done. 1. Pick the right sized oil pump for what your car is going to be used for. For example if you are doing only daily driver, street work you don't need a Jun/Tomei etc oil pump, a new standard R34GTR oil pump does everything a street engine needs. If you are doing a fair bit of track work then an N1 pump is a worthwhile upgrade especially if you are adding an engine oil cooler . At the same time you should be looking at a larger capacity, winged and baffled sump. In simple terms, if you are doing enough track work to justify an N1 pump and oil cooler then you need a decent sump. If you are doing targa work, drags, lots of launch control and rev limiter use then that’s where I would suggest a Jun/Tomei etc oil pump be used. They better tolerate the hammer action, but eventually even they will fail. We replace them once per year as part of the lifing cycle. 2. Fit the right sized oil flow restrictors , use the table to determine the size and number of oil flow restrictors. 3. Improve the oil flow away from the cylinder head, tidy up the oil collectors with a die grinder, drill out the oil return holes (+1 mm is plenty) and if you are doing lots of drag, targa, circuit work etc then an external oil return is advised. I have a preference, based on experience, for the rear return as it is inertia supplied with oil under acceleration. 4. Make sure the cam cover baffles are in place and in good condition. I see so many RB’s cam covers that have had the baffles removed, possibly for cleaning, that have subsequently not been replaced. The standard RB26 baffles are fairly effective on their own, but I have had some success with adding stainless steel wool stuffed inside the baffle covers. Obviously the wool helps to separate the geyser, into oil and air, with the oil running back into the cam covers and the airflow continuing on to the catch can. For RB20’s and RB25’s I would always use the stainless steel wool as their standard baffles are not as effective. 5. The above items are usually enough except when the engine has an excessive blow by problem. Obviously the correct remedy for this is to fix the problem, find out what’s causing the excessive blow by and eradicate it. If I need a short term band aid then I remove the dip stick and vent the dip stick tube to the catch can. This usually removes sufficient blow by airflow from the sump up to the head such that 1 to 4 above can do their job. If you have done all 5 of the above and you still have excessive oil flow into the catch can, then the engine has a serious problem that needs to be fixed. The first thing I do is get out my trusty leak down gauge and check the status of each cylinder. My rule for a turbo engine is, if am seeing leak down in excess of 10%, then I seriously consider pulling it and doing a proper inspection and rebuild. Better to catch it while it’s still has some life, than let if die a death filed with mechanical mayhem. Hope that was of some help Cheers Gary

LOL I honestly don't know how much it was, but it wasn't a cheapo...

Hi Guys I have my turbo back exhaust for sale. Has come off my R33 GTST. Comes with Split dump front pipe - black with strapping - 10.000kms Magic Cat - 10,000kms Kakimoto cat back - 30,000kms Parts are located in Sydney Urgent sale needed, $800 or best offer Please email - ss.matt1.ss @ gmail.com Or phone/txt 0418 432 857 Thanks Matt

Hey, I'll be stoked with a 49.....