Xeron

u can make a very smooth american v8, its just alot of overlap in the cam, with small lober seperation in the cam etc, while good for power, dosn't make for a smooth idle. Also depends on what v8 it is, the internally balanced engines tend to be more smooth from the more accurate balancing.

Heres a lil bit of info, its generally accepted that an engine produces most power in rl conditions at an afr of 13.8. Then think of how much more rich u guys run. But yer, u need run rich or ull detonate. Oh and another one, guess when DOHC engines were first invented, i cant remember off the top of my head, but its also around 1912 or something. So much for them being new technology

if the replacement for displacement for boost, dosn't it make sense to boost something with large displacement

Its like disconnecting the EGR system on cars. (i mean its really a useless act, good for copping u a yellow or a fine, not much else)

im really suprised u couldn't find jets large enough for twin barry grant setup, any idea what cfm rating the carbys were? Hell u should have been able to get enough fuel with just 1 of the ones, let alone a twin setup. Those demons are a mean carb.

10w-60, u got a bad smoking or leak problem, cause if u dont get a lighter weight, check ur manual for what is recommended for ur areas temperature range, but ull be loosing a few horsies with that oil being so heavy when warm.

Ull all shoot flames if u take off ur cats, mainly cause 90% of u will be running pretty damn rich

It can be bare metal, aslong as the metal has a non slip pattern in it. Read the ADR it says nothing about not being bare metal, it just says non slip. A fair few cars come with metal pedals now days.

alot of people die on the roads.

sorry guys, i didn't check this thread for ages. That 1000hp v8 is a big block chev, 555ci, running petrol, but 110ron+mon/2 leaded fuel, so yes it aint a street engine And the chev small block came in many many forms, as small as 4.3l.

yer i do own a car. Im saying tho, hey if ur car dosn't meet the laws, and you know it dosn't, i wouldn't be bitching about it too much if you got caught. Yer its annoying, but you are knowingly breaking the law. My car dosn't meet the emmision laws (most emission controls were removed by someone) if i got told, ur cars not meeting epa standards i'd say, well shit it aint and hey i know that, so ill make it meet em.

Arent the forces applied a square to the piston travel, so u double the piston travel, u quadruple the forces applied to the internals. Either way im not a fan of huge redlines myself.

Yer if i was a cop i'd be a **** head to most young people anyway, cause ive seen how many are pricks to em. And if you car dosn't meet epa regulations, it dosn't meet epa regulations, theres no 2 ways about it. If they get u for ur car polluting too much, u are polluting too much and fairs fair. Just go dedicated LPG, or sell the skyline and get a car made before 1972, problem solvered.

A 1000kw skyline will loose a fair bit of power in the gearbox and diff, cause ull need a big ****ing gearbox and diff. generally 25% is a good figure, it makes it easier cause thats pretty close to the conversion rate for kw to hp, 300rwhp gives u aprox 300kw at the crank.

Dragsters use autos cause A, autos change gears a hell of alot faster B, autos are alot more constant, and constancy is the key to bracket racing C, autos put less strain on the drive train, unlike a manual the power is built up through the drive train when they car is stalled up, no sudden surge of power from a clutch drop. and yes, 2 speed autos are popular in drag racing. The glide is a very very strong gearbox in a built up form. Also pretty cheap.

a TH350 in a supra *giggles*

This is an old thread, but if u guys are after a 6" rod, thats chev 350 territory. Its longer than stock, but alot of people make em, and u wouldn't need to pay $2400 for em thats for sure. 6.125 would be a mopar.... 360 from memory rod. And a smaller rod than stock dosn't give u more displacement, the rod is still moving the same distance. It DOES realllllly kill ur compression. Rod no longer reaches deck height, thus theres a huge gap between the top of the piston and the combustion chamber, thus ur CR is killed.

spend $350 a tyre and get some MT slicks, there a hard sidewall but itll still solve all ur traction problems. Unless u get axle tramp of course :

AU just have a different offset to clear the new brakes from memory. The bolt pattern itself remained the same i believe.

450hp at the wheels aprox. And ull find theres alot of chev rods out there that can take over 800hp, there are chevs running 6's and quicker remember.

they do say tyres are the best handling mod, and now u know why

just get this, price is in $USD tho Although i dunno about streetable, but ull do under 10!

1000hp n/a is very possible. U can get real close for under AUS$25k to a chev, so it would be more than possible with the soarer v8 with enough money.

Well a stock BB 502 chev from GM puts out, 502hp/373kw. A bit of boost or some n/a work and ur giggling Mind you, people run n/a 6's with those 422ci C5R race blocks, and there pretty much the same weight/dimensions as an ls1. Pitty bout the price

hey i think theres some n/a v8's running in the 6 second barrier. Give respect where respect is due.