Xeron

u looked into polygraphite bushings. Hard, and squeek free, or less squeeky anyway. Hell just go for metal bushings =P

a n/a supra runs like a 16, maybe a 15 on a good day. If a gts-t cant beat that ill cry.

14.7 is the theoretical perfect afr 13.8 is generally the actual best for performance U turbo guys run richer for safety, although unless something happens and he leans out further, it shouldn't kill his engine. and 800+nm of torque is very possible, gear ratios multiply torque. So say we he has a diff ratio of 3.8, and the 800 was measured in a gear with a ratio of 1:1. That results in 800/3.8 so 210nm of engine torque.

alot of people in the US run nitto 555's as a street tyre, cause well they are one. I mean there not a wrinkle wall or anything. U dont need a big burn, if u burn too large ull kill the tyre.

To check the heat range of ur plugs pull one out. If it looks burnt, corroded etc, go one level colder, but i high doubt its that. Just gap to either .7 or .6mm and it could fix the problem.

Someone mentioned why dont cops go after the old bombs and yellow all of them. I'd like to ask them to look around next time there driving, cops have been doing so. Compared to say 5 years ago theres **** all old bombs out there now days, you rarely see a car blowing a shitload of smoke anymore, or sitting in the carpark trying to start for 5 minutes and then getting 3 people over to push start it. There are very few old bombs out there now days, hell mines one of a die'ing breed. But mine also passed the pits first time when i registered it

Um TRW arent all cheap shit, numerous cars running around the 6 second mark use there pistons, i dont see anyone here requiring that kind of strength. And someone said about how america has few GTR's, thus they wont have pistons as good as japan does for them. A piston isn't really a brand specific item, apart from the dimensions and sometimes a few specialised little design tricks, they are essentially all 'the same'. What im saying is, where a piston comes from dosn't affect its quality (excluding cheapo chinese made cast items and the like). And to tell you the trueth, if i was going to be country specific, like the person saying the japanese use better alloys, i'd go for america anyway. Something about them running ALOT more 4 second drag cars than japan, im not even sure if any japanese have hit the 4's. And yes i know, that this means **** all as the technology used in 4 second cars has barely anything in common with the technology used in 9 second cars. But what country it comes from barely matters either.

and then uve gotta raise the question, are forged pistons for RB's expensive cause of the limit run size, or is there a huge markup when the tuner shop gets them. (for instance u can get TRW forged pistons for a v8 for as little as $44 each, thats no joke). Any of u ever tried ringing up the factories and asking for a piston to match RB specs?

Just one thing i'd like to add, if your going to O-Ring the block, and probably run a copper gasket, wouldn't it be more adviseable to also use head studs instead of bolts. And about VVT, Vtech and all the different incarnations, they improve driveability, not power, and you never run a huge undriveable cam in a turbo engine really, so dont worry about it.

iridiums arent even better than coppers. They dont produce a better spark, or more performance, they just dont foul as quickly. But most of you guys will be running rich and foul them pretty quickly anyway.

hell my car crunches on gear changes too, i just double clutch

The RB dosn't have too small a bore, it has too short a stroke Anyone happen to know the stock rod length on the rb engines anyway?

peewee is correct on one thing tho, it is very easy to over-cam an engine. Dont go too big kiddies

From what ive heard the coating reduces detonation a fair bit due to the ceramic reflecting heat back better and not absorbing it and creating hot spots. Ive never actually heard of the combustion chamber being coated, most people just polish it to a mirror finish from what ive seen.

Shortening the rod dosn't change the stroke, the crank still pushes the rod up and down the same distance, it will just kill your compression ratio and like you said, it induces excessive rod angle. Hrm, its kind of hard to explain... im ****ing sick as and drugged up atm, so if i confuse you im sorry Okay since the rod is longer, it works on less of an angle right. Due to this its at TDC for more degrees of angle, thus a longer period of time. Ill try and find a site that explains it better when i get home tommorrow. Um with strokers the extra displacement is made by pulling the piston further down the bore, but it still onl raises to (roughly) the same tdc hight, the extra displacement comes from the bottom of the cycle. The main problems you have are the rods wont usually clear the block if you use the standard sized rods, so some griding needs to be done on the big end.

long rods are a key element of any good engine. Hell a standard mopar v8 uses 6.123" long rods, thats a BIG rod Longer rods cause the piston to 'dwell' at tdc longer which produces better combustion, and increases the engines volumetric efficiency. Higher vr = more air/fuel into the engine, so more power. And saying a stroker engine will need shorter rods is a misconception, the added stroke is usually made at the bottom of the stroke, and shorter pistons (thus stroker pistons) make up any added length at the top of the stroke. Although stroker rods are different to normal rods, i think it has to do with the size of the big end tho, im not actually too sure. Any of u guys ever had any experience with pistons that have been ceramic coated on the top? edit: although strokers do have lower r/s ratios, due to the same length rod but a longer stroke obviosly.

from what a few mopar performance guys have told me alot of the good lead replacement addatives u buy are just tin addatives. So who knows, there prolly good for ur head aswell.

hrm i cant remember what the figure is, it could be 150, too much beer in my head lately. The way i understand it is, a colder spark plug will remove more heat from the combustion chamber, 70-100 degrees more quoted from NGK. What this means is, if your running too hot a plug, it will retain too much heat and cause detonation in your engine. Too cold a plug will foul quickly as it wont remain hot enough to burn off deposits. A larger gap makes it harder for the ignition system to throw a spark over this gap. This can cause miss fire at higher rpm, so if ur running ur engine at a redline higher than stock, and ur experiencing missfire at wot, u might want to try dropping the gap .1 or more. Hope i made more sence now that im sober

Crank out a measuring tape/ruler. If the new wheel/tyre combo dosn't have the same diamater as the stockos, ur speedo is no longer accurate.

If u were making more power over stock u'd want to decrease ur gap no? .7 should be fine either way, but i wouldn't increase it. And i think the rule from most plug companies is 1 heat range for every 75hp, or around there anyway.

yer detonation has a million variables, u cant say all engines will detonate on a certain CR or boost level. Things like quench distance of the engine (if it has a quench head at all), the cr and boost levels, the quality of the casting (if u have say little spurs sticking out of ur combustion chamber, they tend to induce detonation) and a million other things all go towards it. Things uve gotta watch out with stock pistons are rpm levels (depending on wether the stock RB pistons is cast, hyper or forgie?) and detonation. There the main killers.

N/a supras are pretty much slugs, prolly do a high 15. and im SURE a skyline would get more traction than a supra. so imho the skyline would win.

Well im not sure if the exhaust manifold on the rb engines is alloy, cast or what, but if its aint alloy, i'd get it coated in ceramic. The reason, heat wrapping increases rust, ceramic reduces it. This is more of an issue with cheap headers, but still.

Um clay bar would be your best bet, get it from any place that sells good quality polishes and the like. Even if it dosn't work, you car will be cleaner than it ever has been before.

Well as far as u know u could be well wound back really. And if a timing belt snaps ur engines dies, valves smash into pistons and nice things like that.