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matlowth

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Everything posted by matlowth

  1. Standard box ay - well that's nice to know that it'll cope with enough power to run 10's. That's one of the reasons I'm hesitant to run the car on Nitto's/Slicks/whatever. Don't fancy having to fork out for a gearbox rebuild! In any case - sounds like a very well prepped car. Is it a drag special - or just a really quick street car? Cheers, matt
  2. Re: visous balancer - not too sure. If you can afford it, I'd go the aftermarket rods just for that extra piece of mind. If you really want to rev hard, spend the $$ and get the crank balanced too. Can I ask why you're concerned with reving to 7500rpm? My motor makes peak power around 5800-6000rpm and thats with bigger cams and a turbo that'll flow roughly 700hp. They don't need to rev as hard as a 26 to make power. Cheers, matt
  3. Manual I gather? I've really gotta get back to the drag strip asap! It's getting progressively harder to get into that top 10 list! Cheers, matt
  4. My crank has been balanced and all the rest of it, and it regularly see's 7500rpm. I know of one running to 9000rpm running a factory (abeit modified) crank. Anything past 7-7500 and I think you'd need to look at aftermarket rods. Cheers, matt
  5. It hasn't run with the power it's putting out now, but back when it was making 380-400ish rwkw, it ran a 10.9. If you look in the HPI top 10 RWD over 2.4l, it's number 1. Cheers, matt
  6. Can't really say whether front runners are needed when using the ET Streets... However, if they're like Nitto's, then you should be fine! Cheers, matt
  7. You sure about that? My head flow's pretty bloody well and I've got high flowed T07S (650-700hp turbo), and my car needs 3 times the amount of boost to flow that. I think your mate is telling fibs. BTW - a turbo doesn't flow 600hp @ whatever PSI. An engine running a turbo @ whatever psi may produce 600hp. A turbo is just an air pump! Oh - and PS - Don't discount the PowerFC just because you have to run an AFM! My car's running one and I don't have any issues with it! Cold start is perfect out of the box, bolts straight in without modifying the harness, it's very easy to tune, and a most of the part throttle maps only need a bit of tweaking vs. creating from scratch on a Link ECU. Plus it's a 20x20 map for inj & ign! matt
  8. Heh - My poor skyline just wouldn't keep traction on the dyno... That run I blew a hose off so I didn't get a good power reading Cheers, matt
  9. I'd jump on some of the VL Turbo forums and ask that question. The bellhousing is identical (hence why my Std 5spd g/b mounts up the RB30 bottom end fine). Cheers, matt
  10. Once you get into the 12's (high/low) with mph over 120, tyres are the clincher... On street tyres (ie. falken azenis st115 - which are ), the best I've run is 12.3 @ 124mph - with a 2.35 60ft... Going by the fact that for each 0.1 sec at the 60ft line you should be able to make up 0.2 sec at the other end, a 1.85 sec 60ft time (in theory) should be worth a full second at the other end of the track. The thing you've got to remember, is think about how quick 0.1 of a second is. It's about the same amount of time as it takes to blink! The cheapest way to get an 11 sec 1/4 with the smallest amount of power, is a set of 90/10's in the front, 70/30's in the back, a 4000rpm high-stall, slicks and a set of front-runners! Cheers, matt
  11. G'day - I'm keen on the Plenum/TB/Adaptor. Will you seperate?
  12. If they're the same as slicks (ie. very soft sidewalls), the back end tends to sway on the tyres... To anyone not aware, it would feel like the back is stepping out. With normal rubber on the front, it accentuates that problem because the front is tracking straight. Obviously your first thought is to provide some oppy lock to straighten it out - and that's where it gets dangerous! Sticking skinnies on the front means the front of the car moves around with the back. I'm guessing here - but I would think if you got a larger sized tyre (ie. 16 or 17"), the "sway" would be no-where near as bad as there isn't as much sidewall. Cheers, matt
  13. heh - too true! PS - Do you need front-runners with them, or are the sidewalls stiff enough that the back end of the car doesn't "travel" when you're motoring at 100mph+? Cheers, matt
  14. Awwww... What did I miss!?!? Martin - Are they radial tyres (ie. are they eligible for the HPI top 10), and how do they compare cost wise to Nitto's? Cheers, matt
  15. re: the mustang. Agreed. I only noticed that on Sunday. Very nice! matt
  16. I think the most impressive thing about this car is for how long it has over 400rwkw! Look at the meat in that graph - it's pretty easy to see that it isn't just a dyno queen! Go Leewah - Go Fangartists! matt
  17. Yeah - pitty I got in on the action so late - I only grabbed 2 drinks Ahh well! Re: cruises - for sure... I'll try and get out for the next one.
  18. Ummm - Not sure? Nige or G perhaps? You didn't bring it with your collection did ya? Cheers, matt
  19. Matt - you still on street tyres mate? Those times are getting pretty damned good! matt
  20. Nahh - leewah - I think we got most awesome club display or something? It wasn't club with attitude... PS - As mentioned - nice to meet you guys - I'll have to come out on a few more cruises. matt
  21. Yup - sure was! I think I've met you before yeah? Re: the car - yeah it's a 3ltr with all the other bits and pieces. Jet - Yep - tell me about it... And it was a 3$ hose clamp that caused the problem! :blah: Cheers, matt
  22. The two GTR's on display at the Fangartists stand for sure... Ben's Racepace GTR - 495awkw - track raced, and Daves 617rwkw monster! matt
  23. I managed 352rwkw @ 16psi... When I went to turn up the boost, I blew a hose off, then the dyno had a power surge.... But we all know that it was my car that broke it! Nice to meet some of you guys btw! matt
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