YLD-CHLD

Got these for the weekend for doing my first ever repair on an A1 Gp suspension support mount. Man am i stoked ,got to perve all over this thing. Will be taking photo's tomorrow & the weekend. I cannot explain how well engineered these things are & they sound awesome when they give it a punch,the hairs on the back of my neck stood on end. And a big thanks to team Switzerland

Yeah i will be up for this ,fingers crossed. sounds like a shitload of fun fun fun fun.

Am after some feedback on the pro's & cons of the os giken close gearset upgrade. I've got a spare box that i'm looking at doing up to throw into the car but am undecided on the gearset,should i leave it stock or go the os giken set? It's going into a 1990 R32 GTR,is there ant other mods needed when fitting these gearsets? Will be doing all synchro's & bearings while i'm there. I will be using the car for the odd track day & it will more than likely see the strip.

What does it use for cooling? its in the thesis in a lot better detail

After a looking into fitting my ebc found that the harness may be incorrect! It appears that i have the jdetro harness & not the boost control harness. The end that goes into the power fc has a 3 hole plug plus 2 wires & 2 map sensors connected at the other end. Would i be able to use this centre pin & one of the Map sensors (corresponding wire) wires to use this as a boost control cable? My loom is identical to that in the above post.

Has anyone here connected a Power FC boost controller or jdetro PFC? Where do the 2 signal wires from the map sensors go? Are they spliced into the Front & Rear Afm signal wire at the ecu? It looks to be cyl 3 & cyl 4 in the diagram though.

any help would be greatly appreciated,dont want to cook anything.

Just having trouble translating wat wires,the blue & green wires from the boost controller loom are spliced into on the R32GTR ecu loom? In the pic its says something about Cyl no.3 & Cyl no.4 but its in japanese. Would they be for front & rear AFM's? I'm still running the AFM's. Looking forward to getting the EBC working but these two wires have me muffed. & are they spliced or terminated as shown in the pic?

I'LL TAKE IT. RB30 Here we come!

I already had the Power Fc installed so all that was needed was to get an electronic solenoid hook it up to the standard solenoid plug then attach the signal & actuator hoses. Then attach a MAP(3bar) sensor to the input on the power fc. Haltech sell the solenoids for about $120 Then dial in your levels on the hand controller duty cycle & pressure. & make sure u have the correct cable/loom

yeh its the original Gran Turismo from psx days but a great addition to the psp. Also a lot of other games are available in this format. a bit of stuffing around getting dark alexs firmware & then devhook .52 but well worth it.

Well the long awaited Gran Turismo on PSP is finally here. Gotta love the devhook Just finishing off the download then will post again to let you all know wat it plays like. By the way has anyone else tried street suprmacy its got the R34 GTR in it? Or D1 for that matter? Got Metal Gear Solid Portable ops but as yet haven't tried it out.

this guys a dreamer I send him the deposit then 2 weeks later he decides he doesn't want to sell the engine. & still no refund on the deposit---WTF

yeah should be able to make it sounds good

Just drove home & found that the clutch pedal pressure was normal then became hard to depress then back to normal & so on. Thinking it might be the master cylinder seals about 2 let go. Any other theories? Found the problem after replacing the seals in the master cylinder. replaced everything bled clutch circuit & still had the same problem. Then pulled the check valve off the booster & it seemed to be sticking,replaced it & walla clutch is like new. Will post pics of the old & new clutch piston assembly shortly ,seals were gooonnnne

yeh they can. Check around the pump for signs of water leaking out. Water gets out-air gets in!! I had slight water usage just before destroying an engine due to a head gasket that had corroded thru from the water jacket to the combustion chamber. Used a slight amount of water before going bang. Good luck lets us know wat u find.

Leaves them for dead. Try the ORSM V8 mod released last month its brilliant.

How old are the AFM's? What coil packs & plugs u running? Could be the AFM getting a headache or the spark is being blown out.

Yeh i would be up for a set of those.

nah as stated u run the risk of contaminating the new engine for $475 for a new one i dont think it's worth risking it. Have tried cleaning oil coolers before & u never seem to be able to stop getting little bits of shit coming out of them.

hi there ever thought about doing it yourself? Can save yourself a fair bit of dollars and learn a bit along the way.

Thanks ,yeh it sure was that oil-cooler letting the oil into the radiator. Know to get a new cooler & an aftermarket one for those track days,if i ever get to go! Anyone got contacts in japan to get the oil cooler direct from Nissan over there? Can't believe my luck with this ,but keep thinking how lucky i was not to loose the engine altogether.

And Nissan Australia are asking $480 for a new cooler. Might just go aftermarket. Does anyone no 1.Approx wat pressure drop in oil pressure do you get when adding an external cooler e.g ARC Oil Cooler? 2.Does the cooler-adapter plate bolt up in place of the stock cooler or does it use a sandwich plate arrangement?

Just wondering if anyone has experienced an oil cooler getting an internal leak & letting oil into the coolant circuit? I suspect thats were mine has gone. Forgot to mention that it had a rebuild 15,000k's ago & had a Tomei head gasket installed,compression check came up good & all the studs are still at the torque setting they were initially set at. And that there is no trace of water in the oil i dumped from the sump. Only found approx 2-3 teaspoons in the top of the overflow bottle & under radiator cap. Car was running faultlessly it was just that each & every time i take it out i check the oil,water ,brake & clutch fluid ,& this time found a nasty. will have the cooler plate made up tomorrow & pressure test it again then & post the results here. Well low & behold the oil cooler has a crack or pin hole inside & when under 50psi of pressure & at temp of approx 85c the cooler would produce a minute bubble every 15-30 seconds,but would not do this when at room temperature.

Yeh thats sounds like one of the 2 oil cooler hoses has split. Had the same thing happen,cost about $35 dollars in parts from Mr Nissan & some crafty labour,they are in a real prick of a spot. If ya need a hand to change them let me know ,if ya local.