psybic

You should put the price up. Thats a very straight looking GTR. Compression test? Inspected the turbos? I know you are obviously keen to sell to put such a clean looking GTR for such a price... but you aren't after trades are you...?? Either way, some Newcastle bogan should get their act together and buy this car tomorrow, its a great looking buy! Put a HSV sticker on the back you'll sell it! Don't you hate selling good cars in newie... *sigh*

I'm a software developer, work in the Finance Industry. Lately, I have quit my job and started to do some independant consulting. I am working on some online client referal systems, so basically, all the work for getting the is done from here in Newcastle, but the client can be anywhere in australia. The place I am contracting for at the moment has 25 lenders they put the proposal to, but thats just an example. How many people using the forsale section on here, or other forums, could be assisted by some online applications for personal unsecured loans. Its your typical broker setup, but we do it all using online forms, rather than you walking in to a broker. Also, the fees are less, because one office services many clients. I would have pmed this to a mod, but it wouldn't be bad to hear the general ideas on this. It came to me just then when someone was talking about getting finance gor a GTR who was 19. You aren't going to get many secured lenders interested in using an imported car for security at all. There are many other ways of obtaining the finance that you need though, thats why using a broker can help you with that, as well as interest rates. Thoughts?

Drive up a hill... then you'll see it 'boosting'

Bloody oath. I have pretty much the same setup. S12 with stock SR20 with about all the bolt ons you can think of. Just drove from Newcastle to QLD, didn't mis a beat. They are great cars, good for wankers that don't know what they are too, its fun to see a stock skyline with his 140rwkws or whatever he has try and show you what a 'real car' can do. lol. Power to weight, these things are great, awesome for drift! Its more of a bargain than my car was!

People selling cars hate being dicked around, so do people buying cars. Get a compression test and a leak down test and save people the hassle of having to come find out for themselves. This is a bargain if the compression is fine and the noise can be fixed without a full rebuild.

Nothing more scarey than FWD auto in the wet. Like has been said before, you going up a hill or something, IT decides its time to drop back, suddenly its spinning. When I got my GTR, I was so so scared... as soon as I turned the key, I forgot why I was scared, its just a normal car. Its doesn't have 200+rwkws at idle! You give it light load and drive it gentle, your 626 will beat it easy. They are monsters that come onto boost for no reason! Infact, if you start thinking you'll be scared, you'll end up disappointed... they aren't that fast. If you hit a corner at 100, you'll die, but thats the same for any car. These ones just get up to and back down from speed quicker.

Cause a quality girlfriend would get out of your car and run off with another man cause his car was faster.... About the kw v time thing. Maybe my views are distorted from much time spent on supraforums when I had my supra. I just remember seeing some stupid dyno sheets with 600hp+ and they could manage a low 11 at best. It make sense they have good times if they really do make the power, just seems alot of supra boys use magic dyno's. I am NOT hating on 2J's, I owned a na version and loved it (although it needed a turbo pretty bad, lol) but you see ALOT of this sorta stuff from supra owners. This image is a guy selling his car. He is proud of it I could be missing something, someone may have an explanation, but I have seen other like this, yet less extreme. Maybe its not the engine, rather the stigma of supra, which says, ALL SHOW.

How fast does your 447kw supra go down the quarter? Timed it yet? Its funny what big numbers the supra boys have, both on the dyno, then somehow, on the quarter too. I love supras, I think they look sexier than GTR's, but for me (only having owned a na supra, so not gonna compare performance I have actually sat in, but have seen alot of results) the GTR is the race car, the supra picks up chicks. The other comparison is. Carsales at the moment, I am seeing TT manual Supras for around 28-33k with a few light mods, mostly pretty stuff. 25-30k, some very big power GTR's. With the supras looking nothing short of sex. They are for different things. The supra always wins when parked out the front of a club(trust me ), the GTR wins when hammering home from work late at night(trust me ) I'll own both one day.

Which is why I already answered by saying I didn't think it hurt. I knew what you were getting at. I think the main reason, is its easiest just to hook up straight to the battery.

Nope. Pretty sure its doing no harm tho. Might even be some sort of convection current if water is hot in the block and cooler in the radiator?... maybe... i don't know these things... All theory aside, the results are the main point and the results are awesome.

I run twin thermo's on an SR20DE+T. Since my GTR died, due to heat, I have been worried about temp. Even with a hi-comp engine, running boost, in a drift car, so has seen a bit of stick, the thermo's are amazing. When having the car tuned, the tuner was amazed he could not get the car over 80degrees. Hot days are not a problem and even sitting in traffic, I rarely see 75. Also, they help cool the engine AFTER I turn the car off which I like. I'm a big fan.... kehehe, I'm funny...

You also mentioned that whoever mentioned the 7 letter F word that rhymes with butter should be banned. What happened to that idea? I thought it was a good one.

Isn't an S12 a gazelle? Good price though, pretty much same as mine, and they are great to drive hey.

F#CKEN AYE!!! I don't even bother explaining it anymore when people ask about why my car makes certain noises. Just pat them on the head and say "Just keep doing your thing guy"

Compression lower than 126 is considered below acceptable. More than 14psi variance between max and min. Stock compression is around 170.

Item: FZR250RR Location: Newcastle Item Condition: Used, solid, no issues. Reason for Selling: Upgrading Price and Payment Conditions: $3,500 Rego April 2006 Extra Info: Have been off my P's for more than a year. Haven't upgraded cause haven't really needed to and still don't. Its very quick and I can ride around with my mates on bigger bikes without being toooo far behind. So if it doesn't sell, I don't mind, just considering moving up, but I love it, so keeping it doesn't phase me at all. Contact Details: psybic@hotmail.com As stated. Just tossing up the option of moving up to bigger bike. Its great being able to give big revs and a bit of a squirt without speeding. Great on fuel. Light and easy to handle. Mate just bought the best bargain we could find for ZXR, my paint is better and mine runs better, so I believe is a good price. ** pics up soon ** Issues: Not sure really, I haven't had any, I'm sure you'd find some if you look over it. Back tyre still has plenty of tread. Newcastle buyer would be best, can always get cheap parts or accessories for locals. Mate works in large local bike shop in parts section.

I'd go the Microtech. They are easy to wire in. Very clearly labbeled wires, you won't need to go get the AFM or loom. Its cheaper and just as easy as the other options. LT12 is a great computer. I wired my Microtech in myself and was very easy to do, I had never done anything like it before, got it right and have had no issues, so it can't be hard. People always like to stick with what they know, most people on here love the PowerFC, maybe because they are an awesome plug and play and come ready to drive with little tuning required. Full tune for the Microtech only cost $300, so it can't be to hard to tune either.

I was talking about my rant, I am quite aware it was only a small comment from you, but I felt like ranting, so I did. Another free bump :lol:

This is where I disagree. I think that you have just pumped more molecules of all elements of the gas you are inserting. There will be more oxygen molecules and it will be able to burn more fuel. Just because the volume hasn't changed doesn't mean there isn't more combustable molecules in there.

Grrrrrrr Don't you hate when people give you shit about kms! Pretty much all kms on imports are bullshit anyway!! You need to go off case by case. Compression test means more to me than fake kms on a dash. Good luck with sale, hot car. Just had to rant at kms call, always hear the same thing when I sell cars myself.

The clear diagrams have no labels on either axis. Once you reach target boost, how can you flow more air? The dynamics of the head don't change, so at certain boost and certain rpm, my car always flows the same amount of air. I didn't even need to have cold start altered on my SR20. Factory base with a 30sec tweek on install was enough to keep my cold start acceptable.

So does anyone have any better info on why MAP sensor is less accurate than MAF? I hear it all the time. I have now owned two different cars which I have placed Microtech units in. Each time, I found better response! Why would cold start be harder with a MAP sensor? My first car which had an LT8, actually started first time everytime AFTER getting the LT8, which also made it idle spot on from cold start, before that, with stock ecu, it had major issues and took 5mins to warm up, due to an old and dodgy afm and running way to rich. Also, if your cooler pipe ever comes off, or anything bad in the induction system, the MAP doesn't care, car just goes back to na mode. Not like an AFM, which will be very confused with any sort of air leak. From experience, on two different cars with different engines, both street cars, for everyday use, I am saying there is NOTHING wrong with MAP sensors and the tune has enhanced mid range and response in the car so much the car feels like a different car BOTH times.

TWO.06L off here is the best builder of an RB around here. No questions. If he will do it for you, you'll have to pm him and ask nicely I'd say. This is if you want it done very well, be prepared to pay for the quality ofcourse. Wouldn't bother if you are looking for a budget solution.

Hahaha, nice call. BEST way to turn heads whilst on full boost, which means you are probably going fast, which means the cops will defect you cause they will think you are a dick and then because they are defecting your engine bay, they probably won't stop at the exhaust leak. I wouldn't do it unless you never see police cars where you are.

Well everyone will agree might as well do all at same time, so you don't pay for labour twice. In a previous car however, changing dump alone made a HUGE difference... the cat was in that dump as it was a celica... still, I like dumps...