psybic

You sure? We just ordered some X-Box stuff from Japan, was only $300 worth or so. We had no idea about import tax, then $100 bill rocked up in the mail. It was a very nasty surprise.

Firstly, i'm not missing the 4WD point, becuase i don't believe a stock R33 has enough power to have uncontrollable wheel spin. I left that out, cause that is an opinion not a fact. The original question was about wanting to beat a mates 168KW vehicle, he wants to use a 187kw vehicle to do it. I think thats a pretty good start wouldn't you. If they are going to actually sit on the strip and race, might have to practise launches a bit, but on the street an extra 19kw will be useful. Anyone who wants to argue that a car with 11% power handicap will "SMOKE YOU" has got to think about that a few more times when they have the same kerb weight.

You guys are ridiculous. WHO CARES ABOUT YOUR EXPERIENCE! The laws of FORCE AND MOTION STILL APPLY TO YOU. R33 - 187KW, 1390kg WRX - 168KW, 1390kg I already posted that. No one seems to have read it. Its not the power outputs IN MY EXPERIENCE, its the documented output from the companies that make the cars, they know ALOT more than you do!!! It doesn't matter who says what, 168KW is 168KW, if everyone agrees an excel is faster than a HSV in stock form, then everyone is wrong. Just look at the facts! If you think however that the laws of physics are defined from opinions in a forum, then base your purchase on what you hear here. Other wise use your head and read the numbers, they don't lie!

168kw - 1390kg - 8.27 W to P -> WRX (info from drive.com.au) 187kw - 1390kg - 7.43 W to P -> R33 GTSt (info from envyimports.com.au) (W to P Smaller being better for those who could work that out) There is some research for ya. Argue all you want about how irrelevany power to weight is, but I'd prefer 210RWKW than 100RWKW's any day and I think you all agree, its not that bad of a judge and its more accurate than here say. GTSt will not only win, but you probably won't get a stock one anyway, so it will be quicker than stock. Also WRX turbos are amazingly small, so he has got to replace that pretty quick if he is shooting for power.

Find a job! That car is awesome. I'm jealous, I'd offer GTR swap, but I doubt you would be interested. pm me if you are.

But that isn't a change in power, its less time between shifts.

Its weird how you guys have a WOLF3D/Autronic debate. In newcastle, its Microtech / Autronic.... maybe because we have RX Engineering here and they are the bomb with Microtech. Microtech worked wonders for my old car, but as has been said, don't bother too much about what people say for small points. The number one issue is, who will tune it for you, then get what they tune.

I say again: Because if its going to be a matter of trialing each coil being swapped over, it could take 3 months, as its inconsistant whether it works or not. So I'll swap one, then wait a week, then swap the next one, wait another week or two and so on. This is relevant because the guy the started the thread and myself are NOT having the problem all the time, but would like to fix it before it comes an ALL THE TIME thing.

Its funny you say about the better performance of dedicated gas cars. The new fords have the option of dedicated gas, so there is no tuning compremise, it only runs gas, never petrol. There is a noticable difference in the performance of the dedicated gas falcon and the normal falcon. The hi-octane sources are too rare to be viable.

Anyone? Can you tell us how to test each coil? Because if its going to be a matter of trialing each coil being swapped over, it could take 3 months, as its inconsistant whether it works or not. So I'll swap one, then wait a week, then swap the next one, wait another week or two and so on. There must be some way to test.

I total agree! Not even considering having anything but standard BOVs and would never tamper with them. But a question was asked, so provided some answers, because its something I played with alot to suit the people that do care about sound, whilst I really just want life of turbo and hopefully some less lag.

Before selling my turbo celica, I played with BOV sounds alot, as I was marketing for a young ricer who wanted a "cool" turbo car. My car actually started off with the loud pssshhhh, then after rebuilding the turbo and removing the AFM (remember the 3SGTE AFM is a different setup to what you guys have), this turned into flutter, everytime, no matter how much boost. I would suggest that you will always get a flutter unless the spring is super soft, as you will always be getting SOME air back chopping back thru the comp. You don't want your spring super soft, it will leak. Think about the way it all works, you have like 5psi in the inlet pipes, its probably going to flutter as its kinda easy to get back thru a turbo only spining that fast. You get like 10psi suddenly that comp is going a big fast so the equalisation that occurs is going to be a sudden psshhhh noise, so you are going to struggle to make the BOV not flutter at low psi unless you make the spring really soft. For those that do what the flutter, open the bov and put some 20c coins in to compress the spring, this will make it harder and flutter more. If you want less noise, get another spring that is softer, or toy with making a spring from a coat hanger, its stoopidly soft and leaks like a bitch, but damn its loud!

MANY MANY cars run NO BOV. No BOV what so ever is going to be alot worse for the turbo than a bov which has a hard ass spring. It must hurt the shaft a fair bit when it does this, but even on super soft spring, it will surge back thru under a heavy load, so if your turbo DOES go after one month, I'd say its a dodge turbo, as most people DO NOT have stupidly soft springs that leak all the time like the typical WRX boys.

So how do we test to see which coil it is?

I know I know. You have an X-Box right... You need "mashed" that game is so simple, yet you can play it for hours. And in that game, you kinda mod your car with guns... I don't see how you can compete with that in real life.

hmmmm I've had an S15 attempt to "chop" me from the lights, back when turbos were cactis. and yeah... they look hot from the front, don't know what the back of that one looked like....

Oh I feel the pain. I started with a honda accord, luckily was convinced to sell it and get something fast rather than modding it. Bought a stock celica ($15K) (whoops) - $15K modding that with a GT4 engine going in, realising the standard gear box couldn't hold up and front wheels can't grip. Enter NA Supra ($20K) ( whoops ) - Looks so hot, all the chicks luv it, who cars, only the same as a stock WRX, slower than modded celica, was about to turbo it so.... Enter GTR ($17K) ( YAY ) - Few issues, but the feeling of needing more power is reduced, whilst not gone. I think if you need the power, you need to get something with the power and don't waste money on a car that doesn't have the potential, like I did on a bunch of crap cars. You'll still want to mod the GTR, but the need will be less, as the power is awesome and you can respect it in stock form, thats my opinion anyway.

Its a valid point, what do you mean you have two ECU's. One could be forgiven for thinking you don't really (As there is no point, its like saying you have 6 wheels attached at one time) so maybe you are lying, if you are lying about that, is everything else true also? Its important for someone to know this before they look into buying a car.

Pics of the rims?

Approx price?

Its gotta be ignition. Mine comes and goes just like that on my RB26. Seriously just goes into Rexy mode, then 5mins later, goes to GTR mode. (GTR is better by the way, hehe). It has to be ignition, because if it was a cracked seal or something it would be more constant, I think mine might even be the plug going into the module, hope its not a coil pack.

Beat a GTR?

Plenty of timing in those I guess. Let us know how you go for ping.

I got 126 right across :-( my one sucks

Looks awesome man, but I think the auto thing might be an issue, as its probably more of the "DRIVE ME" style. So anyone who wanted it would probably see auto as a downside, like maybe even start thinking in their head, "+ manual conversion", that makes it more than what you are getting and pretty pricey. Maybe you can find someone who is too unco to drive manual...