psybic

Don't buy a house. Just did that and lost my job two days before settlement. As much money as I've wasted on cars, they've never done that to me. Cars FTW! ps- i bought the cheapest 125cc thumpstar i could get my hands on. this is much cheaper to tinker with and ride hard than it is to muck around with cars. I do still have a 180sx ( and an FZR250 ), but for example, someone broke into my car a few months ago, its going to cost around $800 to fix the damage, my little thumpstar was $520 delivered.... so maybe try and get stuck into cheaper forms of motorsport than street cars... if u can find somewhere to ride a thumpstar, u can drift it all day long, fall off and hurt yourself, snap the chain, replace it, fill up the tank a few times, and it all costs less than one weeks worth of fuel in the car.

Only JZA80 with a 1JZ would be someone who converted a 2JZGE to twin turbo and found it cheaper to go with a 1JZGTE. The BMW is surely a different engine to the RB, no one is saying otherwise. Just that the RB makes more power per litre and thats what I personally like. Mum likes fuel economy and all that, so she'd probably still not be impressed with the BMW engine, she'd probably go a hybrid or desiel engine. So its just horses for courses, I don't see what the fuss is about still, especially if we are talking performance. Show me an engine like the hydrogen prototype RX8 and I'll be impressed. Something that will drive the engines of the future would be a better award, not just more refined versions of last generation engines. Whats the 280ps limit then? I saw on some doco it was to avoid the exotic sports car tax??? Meh, the why isn't important, but it IS a limited power figure. If its not, then why is the GTR so much faster than all the other cars with the same amount of power? And why did so many cars end up with EXACTLY the same peak power? I sniff incorrect figures...

Yeah, twin means two as far as I knew. Would you tell a set of twins they were "BI" because they were different sizes? Pfft, stupid people making up meaning for words. Wank over BMW all you want, I am impressed with an RB26 which was built initially 18 years ago and has similar power output to this brand new engine. If you want to talk about awesome efficiency, what about the S2000 engine. 90kw per litre, no turbo. This engine has 75kw per litre of engine capacity with two turbo's hung off the side. Crap, even the RB26 with the documented 206kw(which we all know is lower than the real story to avoid extra tax due to Japanese law) has 79kw per litre. Wank over design and bullshit all you want, how many of you have seen the design blue prints and physics calculations that went into all the design aspects of the engine? I'd say the ones that work in BMW engineering section and thats about all.... and thats probably no one contributing here. Not impressed with awards which are obviously politically motivated.

The torque of a hi-comp SR20 ( yes, na block, turbo head, t28, microtech, exhaust, na cams, and thats all ) was very impressive in my S12. Very snappy and responsive to drive. moved to Stock RB25 - was very sluggish and didn't feel powerful until hi revs. Now I have a CA with similar mods to the SR, except a bigger turbo and not hi-comp. very very laggy, same peak power, but no response. The feeling I got from the RB25 in the R33 was that it was similar to the CA for power delivery, smooth and always increasing... however, this could be due to setups... even so, the SR was my pick for sure, very very good response! Ofcourse, just like everyone else, my experiences only included one stock RB25, a stock RB26, a modified SR and a modified CA, so I dunno, are you after stock vs stock, or a drift car, or a drag car..etc

Good luck if you can even get full boost at launch...

getting to the point where you should get a highly modded race only import and put the engine from that in this... then sell as many bits off the other one as possible and the rest to the wreckers... the thought must have crossed your mind... very very cheap

Is this a different engine because you are keeping the crazy one that was in it?? Seems like a pretty great price for all those extras! If my concept of a seperate engine with a huge turbo and stuff is correct, what are u doing with the other one?? I may well be thinking of a different car...

LOL, whats with dyno sheets that start at like 4500rpm. Doesn't anyone care whats happening below that? I drive under 4500rpm quite frequently. ECU and tune will make a big diff! I just got full boost about 1000rpm low by adding an ECU and tune... different engine... but still..

infact i'm willing to bet the owner of the said ute, will follow suit with most other holden ute owners and prefer a well laid burnout with enough smoke to rid a small town of its cockroach population than a fast circuit time. *subscribes to future burnout thread feature the video of the ute with a 2j destroying a set of tyres in some well thought out location*

Did he say there was already a V8 in there??? I didn't read it if he did. I've seen a 2J vs ute for sale a while ago. Its a solid option in my opinion. If he has a V6 and was thinking of swapping to a stock V8, why not swap to a 2J instead.

All this talk about vacancy rates. There is no national rule. You need to simply ask the real estate in your area. Do some research if you want to buy an investment property. I know in Newcastle, its very hard to find a place to rent, places don't sit vacant for very long, if at all. Your 7% or so agent management fees are also tax deductable ofcourse :-) and its hard to find a real estate around here who can't fill a decent place. Also, different areas have different average rent vs price of place. Eg, a place in cessnock that sells for $200,000, often returns around $200pw. Further into town, places may sell for closer to $300,000 for same rental returns. This may vary over time, but at time of purchase is a good time to assess. Concepts may stay consistant accross the country, but no point making a hard and fast rule to suit all. Another point.... capitalise on others misfortune. Alot of people have been hit hard by interest rates and are forced to sell. Some even have already been repossed by the bank. Banks don't muck around when selling a place. You'll often get it for 10-20% less than you should because the bank will just take lesser offers to save hassle and time.

Love this question. I've spent the last 5 or 6 months working on a site with some calculators you boys would love. Fact of the matter is, there are lots of facts of the matter, there is alot of hard and fast rules people like to tell you, which they made up out of some rough calculations in their head. Taxbreak was the site I built. Yeah sure, we built it to gain users so we could send them a newsletter which has FCSL written on the top, so if they were after an investment with high saftey and medium return, they'd invest with us. Besides that, its free no catch. At the moment its down for legal reasons. Point I'm making is... I HAVE done the sums. Many times. Many sums. Did you know that any loan you have for purpose of investment, has tax deductable interest? You car loan does not. Did you know, that investing $50,000 for 15 years at 15% per annum ( very achievable with a managed share fund ), will yield, $406,853.08 at maturity... 30 years... $3,310,588.60. Wait... yes thats 3.3 million... sure there are taxes and stuff you'll incur each year. You get the point though. You can retire on that shit. I have some awesome calcs to work this shit out. Investment Calc Play with that. Its just for me, so its got a few bugs if you enter stupid shit, but its not released on any sites yet, so its ok for me just to use for these situations. I've built some pretty comprehensive calcs over the last few months. Negative gearing and such. Which yes, consider, land rates, insurance, stamp duty, bank fees, blah blah... wage, tax benefits, etc. I'm sick of advice being half arsed. Its not rocket science, but you do need to consider the as many variables as possible. Not just... yeah rent money is dead money. f**king useless statement if I ever heard one. So is interest... unless that interest is a tax deduction, for example. I'm not a financial advisor, or interested in being one. I'm a computer programmer who has been contracted to write heaps of calculators for a site which now possibly won't be released. So I don't know financial jargon, I know numbers. Its a numbers game. Don't worry about what all the old timers down the pub are saying. Do the sums. If someone tells you get a V8 cause its got "heaps of balls", you'd laugh. The statement is unquantifiable and not measurable in any way. My long and drawn out point is... its a numbers game. You need to work out the numbers for some case scenarios. Not listen to opinions which are forgetting or simply don't know about many variables. eg. Buying and Selling.... Ever heard of Stamp Duty? Its a killer. Stamp Duty Calc Run that puppy on some prices. Yeah, in NSW almost $7,000 stamp duty on a $240,000 place. That eats in profit pretty quick. We even have stamp duty on mortgages in this country!!! Mortgage Stamp Duty Look! almost $1000 just on the mortgage stamp duty on a $240,000 loan. PM me with more questions. I could go on all day.. just with numbers... not even opinion based stuff.

oh man... i have battled with cooler pipes for months at a time on two different cars now. hard spots that that too!! u need to have a few dots welds on the end, or flange the pipe out a bit. either way. make sure its long enough., u said u already have, so the beads or flange is the answer now. breaking clamps.... hmmmm, never heard that before... sounds dodgy....

Thank God someone said it. This has been a bad debate. I was expecting something better from this forum. All this my mate this and my mate that. The only real comparison would be stress testing in a controlled environment. Even then, you'd need a good number of test engines from each manufacturer. I doubt any one is going to line up 10 RB30with RB26head, and 10 2JZGTE's, then give those cars the same turbos and supporting mods. Then put them in the same car and run then tune them the same ( that would be hard to do... ) then stress test them and post the data. These engines are often in different cars, with different turbos, with different exhaust and fuel setups with different ECU's. One of them isn't even from the factory, so rarely found in even close to the same setup as another just like it. Whats the point of the question? If you want an engine in you skyline, put an RB, simply because it fits. If its for a Supra, leave the 2JZ, because it fits. Obviously both engines are capable of plenty of power with $$$ thrown at them. Myth busters can help us out perhaps...

yeah pm 1jz, for some reason there are a few guys around who can get real good prices. i'm about to go grab my LT10 with x4 ignitor for $1000. when u get them at the good price, makes it even more worth while. also, with the newcastle guys, no doubt most microtech tunes around here are RX. ,maybe thats why we always here how bad fuel econ is with the microtech... we all know they tune a bit richer, they will alter this for u if u ask for a more economical tune. they assume u are after best performance and power unless u ask for otherwise like i have before... and they were very happy to re-tune at a reasonable rate for me. u won't have problems if u get the LT12 for your application and get a decent tuner.

not really. User = Idiot. If I made wheels for a civic and u put them on your skyline ( or tried ) you'd be the idiot. Microtech make ECU's for 4cyl 6cyl and 8cyl. You can make it work as suggested above, many people have before, but best solution is LT12. Its only a little more than the LT10 anyway. When you are talking about LT8, thats second hand, I wouldn't bother, its up to $250 now for the reconfig from microtech. x6 ignition system replaces ignitor, not coils... but yes, the microtech ignition modules are great. if you have a series 2, ofcourse your ignitors are in the coils, then you'll need to change them or you won't need the x6 module, up to u.

oh and i must say, an accurate after market water temp gauge helped me know something was starting to go wrong before too much damage occured. checking gauges all the time and having accurate ones might be a good idea for piece of mind.

Pretty sure my GTR had its issues from more than one thing. Firstly, cooling system wasn't in good order. Ended up having leaking welsh plugs and stuff. I think they weren't to start with, but had I had the radiator checked/changed and a good flush earlier, things may have been different. Second thing, which started the real bad stuff, was the dead turbo. Certainly a noteable difference in the comp in the cylinders corresponding to the dead turbo. Perhaps the cooling problems helped the turbo die. I'd be checking the cooling system. I'd be changing all boost lines and stuff. Aparently the boost line to my actuator was cracked, acting like a bleed valve... over boosting a little on the one turbo, which blew. I'd be really tempted to grab some newer turbo's. That may just be my thinking because i got burnt with some old ones.

Oh. Lol. check the fuse? anyway, I'm not saying GTR's are bad. Just saying they are more expensive IF you do need stuff for them than other cars in my experience.

HICAS light can be effected by different: steering wheel, suspension, wheels, etc... so its probably going to be on. I'd be more worried about compresson being even. Some people have their turbos last for ages without problems. Some people smoke for years without problems. Alot of people however, DO have issues with GTR's. Such as cooling and turbo problems. I had both and it was a big issue, had to sell it. Its not just as simple as looking at the plenum to see how much paint is on there as some people say... lol. I'd just reckon you need to be prepared to spend alot if you buy a GTR under 20k. Who knows, it might last years without a cent spent...but you'd be foolish to not be prepared for alot of drama's. Difference with a GTR is... engines are worth a furtune if you need to replace or rebuild and so are turbo's.

You're doomed... no way can you look at any GTR and not go... wow.. I want it. I can't see how you'll walk away from it without buying it. Oh and I've owned 5 turbo cars. Including an 32 GTR... yes.. they are a money pit. Different league to other turbo cars in performance and required affection.

I agree with your computer. I don't agree with your simple idea's. Why do you think that your huge power will be supported by standard injectors and fuel pump? Is it because you didn't think about this at all? Why not start off with a full exhaust including dump pipe. A cheaper manifold, if you must change at all. A hi-flow turbo. A cheaper intercooler. Then the ECU. Then tune it up, see how the injectors go, see how the fuel pump goes. Be prepared to change them. Why do you need a hand controller? Are you a tuning guru? If its because your tuner doesn't have a controller for microtech, I'd say they'd be more comfortable with a different computer, go with that computer. If your tuner is unknown to you at this point, I wouldn't be thinking about a computer until you do know who will tune the car. Its all well and good to get the good stuff, but you seem to have missed alot of basics. School holidays are almost over anyway... If I've insulted you unfairly, then sorry, my real advice is: go through the dyno results for your engine and see what others have done and see if you would be happy with those sort of setup's.

reset != tune

Its not like an SAFC though. You don't just fool one input, being AFM in the SAFC. The emanage actually has outputs directly to the injectors and ignition from my understanding. This gives you full control, not an indirect control.

If you wire the ecu in with little plugs, takes about 5mins to unplug. I guess my point is, sure it makes it nice and easy, but I don't know if its worth the extra. I'd wire it in and save the extra $$$.