psybic

Just get one of those slit dumps that has the screamer pipe. You can see that its not a bad option for those of us who want under 300kw, don't car about brand names, don't care about whether we can say, "yeah two turbo's mate" but do want something reliable and responsive. Have been a big fan of the idea for quite sometime. Also a good plan for a 2JZGE except would need the GT35R cause its a 3.0L I reckon.

I'd go with an internal one for cost and defect reasons.

I'm pretty much always wrong, so bear that in mind... alas... I think you over budgeted for what a SST COULD cost, for those of us who have thought of it before for cost reasons. GT35R ( ok, not that small, but GT30R would be about the same ) EBay GT35R Less than $2000AUD. I don't think I'd be paying $1500 for a manifold either. So in the new cheaper budget, including Manifolds, Dumps and Turbo(s) $2000 for Turbo $1000 for Manifold (Even cheaper I reckon) $600 for dump + front (Even cheaper I reckon) $400 for intake Thats only $4000. You'd get the same place to do all the manifold, dump/front and intake. I reckon it wouldn't be hard to rock up with your sub $2000 turbo and say, strap that on for under $2000 guys. again... I've seldom made a good decision about car mods, so I see no reason to start having good ideas now... it just seems like a good one tho.

Pretty sure it does. I often disconnected batteries on previous cars with microtech and had no drama's. Make the effort to drive up to RX Engineering if you want a solid tune. I would. Then again, I have heard really good things about Dave Flood from Sydney. Oh, if you find its just all too hard, I'll take the LT12 off ya hands if you want and you can go PowerFC. lol

Son of a bitch! This is exactly the sort of temptation I don't need! Mate someone HAS to realise soon that an R32 with solid compression and aftermarket turbos is worth more than $20k easily! I'd never touch an R32 with stock turbo's again, so if someone is after a GTR, this is it. Best buy I have seen on here for months! Shame market is dead, if you end up getting desperate enough for a trade, I have a 96 model S2 stock GTST, might be easier to sell... hopefully someone will realise the bargain before you get that desperate tho.

I'm sure Sydney Kid will post soon and clear this up if its wrong. I have exactly the same problem so have been doing some searching. Seems that R33 GTSt's run extra rich. The problem we could we be having is its running so rich, it splutters and carries on. As soon as you wack a pod on their, its going to see alot more air, the ecu over compensates and rich and retards like crazy. Everyone always says coil packs first up, for everything... check them for sure, but I'll put money on it NOT being them. Check them by pulling them out and see if they look shit for starters ( like cracks or anything ). Then get a work shop manual and work out which pin to the base should have what resistance. I did this ages ago when I was assured I needed to invest in split fires, turned out it wasn't the coil packs at all. To fix mine, I intend ( when I get paid this month ), to check the afr's and see just how rich it runs on a dyno. Will check things like O2 sensor, TPS ( as it seems to always be fueling up when I back off and wants to just cruise rather than decel ), then to resolve the problem, either an SAFC or if I feel super keen, full after market ecu so the timing can be controlled aswell as fuel. ( LT12 is what I'm thinking, sorry to stray from powerfc culture... don't hate me)

At the risk of sounding simple... The question was: - 'resulted in a blown engine'. He did say from stuff going inside the engine, but I'll take one step back from that and say, who knows exactly why - BUT The answer from experience seems to be, and I'm sure others will back me up: - On GTR's that have blown stock turbos, it is quite common to have failure on the three corresponding cylinders. I never looked too much into why, so at the same time, it may only be the case for twin turbo's... could that be a possibility?

R33's in particular have just dropped hey. I just picked up a R33 S2 GTST 96 model with 90,000kms for $12,750. I see people trying to sell R32's for that. I remember the time I purchased my R32 GTR ( only 18months ago ) and the very cheapest dirtiest R33 GTR I could find available for import was 28k. Now, have seen as cheap as 23k. 17% drop in 18months is almost commodore depreciation! I say hold on till market changes a little. Oil prices are changing and who knows, maybe another fast and furious style movie will come out, lol.

I had a turbo blow on a GTR. Never compression tested before the turbo blew, but after it blew it started having severe blow by. Compression tested less than 125psi on three cylinders that corresponded to that turbo and 140psi on the three that didn't. I assumed it was related but can't back that up. Have always been scared of blowing turbos since, yet have been informed by many people running single turbo's who have blown turbos they had no dramas. Compression test for starters, will help answer your question.

Up ya go..

Nudge

PRICE DROPPED!!! $6,500 WITHOUT MICROTECH WITHOUT BOV WITHOUT POD FILTER WITHOUT Boost gauge and Oil Pressure gauges... You can keep water and oil temp gauages cause they are mounted ever so nicely, lol Also, if someone comes up with cash ALL of the cash, before I pull out microtech THIS weekend, they can keep it. all tuned up and ready to rock. ELSE, no LT10s.

Sounds kinda like the 3SGTE Supra on Hi-Octane... lots of dollars tho and they did it for weight distribution reasons. Its not a good idea for $$$ reasons if thats what you are thinking. The conversion would be soooo expensive, you might as well make the RB tougher.

cheers man :-) yeah, its cheap considering its setup ready for track. its dirty and rough, but no rust, no damage.

Bump...

Sounds like your mechanic or someone is throwing alot of ideas at you to get you to lots of little things... good marketing strategy. So your car is running a little rich. You need to lean it back a little, using an SAFC or aftermarket ecu. You don't need a: - Power Run on the dyno so they can go, yep... its rich. and adjust base timing... thats so dodgy. - A new fuel pump, so they can go, yep... its still rich. - A chip... who remapped it? Your BOV has a thin hose coming off it to make it work. Thats not the hose they were asking about. Does it have an opening which lets the air out, or a big fat hose or pipe which runs back to the inlet? Does it go, pshh? Or is it completely silent. It probably started after a service because they probably cleaned your air filter, or did you put a pod on there? Either way, as soon as you get more air, your stock ECU is going to go rich.

Wow, I was JUST about to add about richness damaging the cat. Good point! I have experienced an engine running way to rich and damaging the cat in a 3SGTE, which has the cat IN the DUMP PIPE! Stupid place I know, so more prone to getting damaged I guess... but yeah, amazing how much power you will be loosing if you are both running rich AND have a blocked cat. I went from 62fwkws to 125 fwkws on that car with hi flow cat + retune.

SAFC or SAFC2???

Again, I am saying NO to the RB20DET computer with stock injectors on that block. How on earth are its maps going to be correct on a 2.5L engine. You need what The Mafia is offering if you don't want an after market ECU.

People in forums often take issue with NA+T. You'll find I'll arc up each time and say how wonderful it is! I wouldn't run stock ECU mind you, especially with the massive change in displacement. I would also use a turbo more suited to an RB25. Besides that, no reason why you can't hammer out a good 12-14psi on a good tune. You'll see some good power from that and good response with the high comp.

I bet thats what mine is also... I was thinking coils.... stupid reading forums too much. Everyone always thinks coils on forums. Good thing I read some sense before I started thinking about splitfires.... Last time I almost bought splitfires it turned out to be low comp on 3 cylinders... people have got to learn to stop assuming coils as soon as something sounds odd. Is R&R particularily bad on RB25's? Because I have had Stock ECU's in RB26 and SR20 and it wasn't like this.

Hmmm, you'll probably think no at first, but consider... I have two cars. Stock Black 96 Series 2 R33 GTSt. Just a cat back and a pod. Stock rims and all. Modified track Gazelle. 158rwkw SR20, awesome suspension, proved great performer on the track. You say you need $$$. You also say you realise that next track car, you'd like to already be setup for track. Gazelle is ready to go as a circuit or drift car. Have lots of footage doing its stuff ( with previous owner ) and now it has new rubber and microtech so more power. Stock black series 2 R33 is going to be alot easier to sell than your beast which is too modified for your average punter. So you interested in a swap?

cheers mate. Yeah the guy that did all the work really knows what he is doing and only sold it to start another project, which is also coming along very well. the car is much more similar to my old R32 GTR (which had coilovers) to drive than I would have expected. Alot quicker and better handling than my R33 GTSt.

Yeah its a NA block, with a turbo head. So it does have the injectors of the turbo. The higher compression means you don't feel the lag very much. Please see my dyno sheet and first post if you are wonder how the car was built and with what.

So all those mods you listed... are they for sale or something? or is that just to make the post look better.?? I might be interested in some of the parts if they are for sale... pm if the wheels are cheap.