psybic

Hi, I think its got a little leakie in the top of the two bits of the sump. Looks like the goop stuff he used before has just come away a bit and letting an ever so tiny leak occur. Am I right in thinking there are two bits to come off, the bottom sump with the oil plug, then the next one (is that still part of the sump). Have been told to use "Ultra Blue" stuff from a tube. Sound right? Mostly wanna know if there is anything else I should look for while its off, or any tips to getting it off, or is it in the too hard basket for a nervous DIY'er. Just get nervous when messing with oil stuff, don't wanna have a stupid story like, yeah i did something that messed with the oil pump now i need advice on a rebuild.

Yeah that was exactly the point I was raising. I don't think cutting the fuel is the best way to stop an engine running at 9000rpm. Don't be a custo, just turn it a little way, its not hard to feel the first click in the off position with no steering lock. Interesting topic though, seems a few people have had similar issues. One time a padock basher brumby I had, got throttle stuck open, but then went one better, kept going once key was off as it was running unleaded fuel (when it shouldnt have been) and the little thrash had it pre-igniting. so ignition off, then it kept going, so i slammed it into 4th and pulled the hand brake on, it tried for a little then died....

Same. The hose. Was mid burn out, started getting out of shape, backed off.... hose says no. For reference, its not lucky you have a kill switch, everyone should be aware you can simply turn the key off, throttles getting stuck is not that uncommon, don't panic, just turn the key off.

I would have suggested Cubes was way off the mark. I do like the idea of low revs with more load, gets nice spool noises as opposed to light load, lol, but always feel I'm wasting petrol that way... HOWEVER.... 10/11 per 100kms.... thats freakin' awesome!!! I don't think my 2JZGE could do that. My SR20 was struggling to do that on a long trip. I'm going to try the low revs, higher load technique.

This shit happens through the SAU forums, yet if you post a car for a mate they delete it because it may be dodgy. Genius....

I've run: ATMO BOV, Half half, and full recirc, as well as none. Never had stalling problems, never suffered from excessive lag due to the change. It must help the life of the turbo. A turbo timer must help the life of the turbo aswell... by how much, is it always required for all applications? How many VL Turbos have failed? How many GTR turbos have failed? You always get failure and because the arguements go on with no super clear answer, I'd say do what you feel, each to their own.

Totally agree! When I imported my GTR through Prestige, SSPI were more helpful than prestige, who were paid the $1100 or whatever it is to help you out. I'd definately go through SSPI again. They even gave me some advice and fixed up a few things for me. Really helpful guys.

Its June, does that mean it runs out Next year, or has already run out?

OMG YES!!! So true. I have been trying to get in touch with them too. Even had an email reply from one once. Then the reply after I answered his questions never happened. See I was running with a concept which could see money being streamed to SAU with each transaction of what I had to offer. They weren't interested, thats fine, I'm happy to not share anyway, lol. So once someone works out how to be a trader, let me know. Or how to get in touch with these guys. To be honest one time I flamed a c@ckhead who was selling a lancer and claimed a stupid power figure, just so I could get a warning cause thats the quickest way to hear from the admin guys.... its crazy cause it worked... go figure.

Location: Brisbane?? Come with GTSt passenger seat? Considering trades?

I edited the post to say *oops double post again* cost i f**ked up and posted twice. I'm over it though, thanks for your support man. It was a tough time, big brother chick with fake titties was a struggle for the old concentration to stay on the forum.

To add to leaks problem theory. as any MAP - MAF argument will tell you, BOOST is NOT FLOW. you can easily boost up to 10-12psi with a boost leak as long as its not to big. You won't boost as fast, cause it has to flow out the leak as well as into your engine. To add to slow turbo response with a leak, you'll have wrong amount of air flow being reported, as the afm hasn't considered a leak. watching a boost gauge isn't the way to check for a leak. physical check of all connections would be a good start.

oops, double post again....

Either do what I'm sure you could work out for yourself, get a set that you know are working and try them. also, find out which pins should have what resistance and test with a multimeter. You can find that out with some google searches I imagine and I know you sure can in the workshop manual which I don't have. ok, now i look like i copied the guy above, but can i please explain, the post to soooo long for me to complete cause the hot on on big brother with the fake boobies was about to go down on a dildo, so i was watching that obviously!!!!!! so i was unavoidablely detained... so u all know, u didn't miss out, the wanker dude with the stupid hair walked in so they laughed and she didn't do it!!!! she had that about to do it look tho... bugger

Is it possible you have a bit of a leak with your new install? This will certainly cause some lagginess and loss of power as the afm will be reporting the incorrect amount of air flow.

I have na cams in a turbo head on a na bottom end. Response is awesome!

About 6 months ago. Since then, new tyres all round, fixed the little problems like missing wheel stud, broken speedo. Put rego on it. Installed Microtech and had it tuned. I bought this car to use for general use after down grading from a GTR cause it needed a rebuild. After having the microtech installed and what not, I have realised I don't really ever use the car, all I'll do if I keep it is spend more and more money on it, my business is starting to look good, so I'd prefer to sell it now and hang out for a bit then get myself another GTR. Anyone interested in a drift car that is fine for everyday use, this would be the go. I have never drifted it because I can't drive well enough, have thought of changing suspension and tyres and taking to the strip, but that would be a waste of a really well setup up drift/circuit car. I can sell it back to the guy I bought it off too, so I really just threw it on here to see if anyone was interested. No rush, still lots of rego and its awesome to drive so I dont mind keeping it, just getting more and more keen for GTR goodness everyday.

Ever run a compression test?? Must be one of very very few completely stock. Reason I ask, is because I now own a 158RWKW S12, so its alot lighter than GTR's, but my Very sick R32, with just an exhaust and removed boost restrictor was a monster compared to my S12. I'd say also, power does vary so much on the dyno, from driving a GTR to driving many other turbo cars with big dyno readings, GTR's launch better and seem to pull harder than even their figures suggest they should.

S12 - Gazelle. 9months rego. Engineered SR20DE+T. Microtech LT10s + Ignition module + Hand controller. T28BB VL Fuel pump Surge tank Gear box from 180sx, 300zx drive shaft. LSD. 4 wheel disc conversion from silvia. SS Manifold 3" dump 3" back to cannon. Coil Overs Adjustable camber tops FMIC Boost Control Water temp, Oil temp, boost, oil pressure gauges. HD Clutch. 16" x 8" rims. Thermo fans. Imobilisor. Previous owner drifted regularily and changed fluids after each track day, I've change oil every 5,000kms since owning it. Comes with Stock air filter and air flow meter. Spare muffler BOV atmo/plumb back.

The 206 - 208 fly wheel kws (depending who converted it back from ps) is not correct. Who honestly thinks the twin turbo supra, the 300zx, the R32 GTR, the R33 GTR and the R34 GTR have EXACTLY the same power??? It is listed as only this much power from the manufacturer because if they quote any higher than that number, the vehicle becomes taxed differently in Japan when sold as new. The question about how much is at the wheels... maybe you should have tested it 16 or 17 years ago. I doubt there is one answer considering 15 + years of variable environments and conditions these cars have been subjected to. A better question would be what is the best you could expect, because its going to be totally different on all of them.

Upon reading a thread in supraforums about similar issues, I found it hard to find a boosted TT supra with turbo failure. Why are their turbos less prone to similar issues to the all so common R32 GTR problems. They are ceramic also and although supras are a few years younger, why are these guys claiming to be able to boost why higher than recommended GTR boost levels and seem to have hardly any failures?

[Deleted by Prank] - Your opinions are not welcome in this thread or any others in the for sale area. Pull your head in or we will start banning!

Damn it. I want this car. Compression test, leak down test? Looks like to much of a bargain in such shiny condition....

Wow. $300 for tune from scratch on SR20DE+T with aftermarket turbo, with microtech.

Did I just read a thread, about someone asking what tool measures boost, then says, no I don't want that tool that measures boost, then says, there must be something that measures boost? Then gets told again, yeah, its a boost gauge, then goes, no its not, thats rice, I want something that measures boost..... Cause I want to know hom many rpms I'm doing, don't want a tacho tho... actually, i kinda want no gauges at all, but I DO want to know how fast i'm going, what boost I'm running, and I'll need to keep an eye on temp aswell.... no gauges tho please.... i hate rice. shoot me.