Ahh32

Broken ring land. ring gap loose. rings not bed in (if just rebuilt). valves not seating fully. cracked head. cracked block. warped head or block. The gasket doesn't need to be broken, it could be leaking into number 2 or 4 cyl. can be difficult to find at times Mine has 80 psi in a couple of cyl's due to loose ring gaps. If they said it was from the block, then i am assuming they did a wet test to make sure it wasn't the valves leaking. time to pull the rest of they engine out and look at no#3 piston

pre-paid and waiting

Rollin imports used to do them but not anymore. he told me that chiptorque were the only ones in QLD who do them now. hence why i am buying a PFC

Is there anyone in QLD that has an eprom burner to remap my RB20 ECU. i have a chip in already that suits the gtr injectors and Z32 afm and 15psi. so i just need someone to tune the fuel maps to suit my new turbo and higher boost.

Is there anyone in QLD that has an eprom burner to remap my RB20 ECU. i have a chip in already that suits the gtr injectors and Z32 afm and 15psi. so i just need someone to tune the fuel maps to suit my new turbo and higher boost.

does anyone know of a good ecu chip remapper dude in QLD

Unfortunately i don't live within 900kms of a race track, so if something does go bang at the track, it is long way to push my car back home. My motor was fully rebuilt (std)a few months ago. but my dad put a bit of it together, due to my work commitments. anywho, he didn't check the ring gap cause he thought i did, and i hadn't yet. so the end result is low compression in all, and oil in number 1. hence why i want to do it properly this time. My new list of parts are: Tomei 82mm pistons Tomei 1mm head gasket Tomei cam gears X2 HKS GTRs kit other stuff: Bore engine new exhaust gasket gates timing belt ECU remap New rear tyres ROY: idler bearings are $120 for idler $160 for tensioner i think from memory

woo up there ice cube.. 1. suggestions about my RB24 build. i have some people to prove wrong. if i still had my RB25de i would have built a 25/30 a long time ago. i would love a 30 but i decided to go the 24 route because i just did. 5-6psi more boost will be overcome by higher CR other than that a 20 sounds better. DANGEROUS_DAVEO: i prefer beef wrapped in bacon P.S. MMOOOOOOO

1. i had a RB25de in it before. swapped it. 2. i don't want a RB25 or 25/30 3. RB24 will go harder sound better and cause i just wanna. 4. i am not a big fan of sheep

Well i am finally going to rebuild my engine properly. RB2?. will either be a 23 or 24 depends if i can find some RB26 bits in time or not. will be using tomei pistons and 1.0mm head gasket. hi-flowed RB25 turbo (SK comments convinced me) Going for 240-260rwkws Date of start is the 01 of March, this year ohh ditching my four puck for a carbon clutch too. any suggestions or tips. IS there a good tuner to re-map the stock ecu in QLD. my guy pissed off up north. P.S> i have everything else to support my power levels.

i am in search of a good RB26 crank and a good set of rods. to do and RB24 stroker. thanks.

woo hoo.. i win

exhaust leak, most probably the manifold bolts/studs loose or broken or about to break. tighten the bolts up, but there is a fair chance that some might break so take care.

there are about three other threads discussing this subject but basically. Sydney kid, Waz and myself got GTR cams to work in our RB20's. but there are a lot of people who have not got them to work.

well you were spose to send the oil pump last Friday and i still haven't got it. nor did i get the courier number i was promised.

how long does stuff take to get from Perth to QLD

"Go play hide and go f*ck yourself"

The pump is from a 95 R33 GTR vspec. what are the difference. too long, too small,

Just pulled my motor out again. i was going to go the bottom route but. after pulling the crossmember and steering rack off there are 4 pipes for the p/steering/ 4ws, i didn't wanna take these off so i went out the top again. took the G/box off first. took less than an hour, easiest part. jack the front of the motor up a bit to get to the top g/box bolts with a long extension. rattle gun and swivel helps too. with the top starter motor bolt. i used several extensions, 14mm socket. . connect them together until the ratchet is above the alternator and then undo or tighten from there. easy.

By the sound of it the late model ones have a different or bigger part where the oil pump funs on the crank. correct? R33 V specs are usually later models aren't they?

hey Roy. i was in the same vote 3 Months ago i ended up going for a STD rebuilt RB20. only because a complete RB26 head was 4K+. the reason i didn't use forgies was because i reckon i can get reliable 250rwkws out of it with a perfect tune and good support system.

just want to make sure that a R33 GTR oil pump will fit in a RB20? is the only diff. between a R32 and a R33 pump the part where it runs off the crank is longer.

R33 GTR oil pump. still got it. will buy

R33 GTR oil pump. still got it. will buy

am in need of a R33 GTR oil pump, in good condition