Ahh32

nah SK i'm not complaining, i love my teins, just my mate got hot bits in his VR-4 and the helper springs are compressed on his too. just checking that they are suppose to be that is all.

if they are they wouldn't be by much, but yes i agree do check, always check

yeah i have the wiring diag. with the RB26 and RB20 on the same page. RB26 ones are at the TOP MIDDLE of the page. RB20 ones are at the LEFT MIDDLE of the page. RB20 & RB26 part wiring diag.

Vallen by advanti are the wheels i was talking about. go to www.yhi.com.au

the shafts have to be the same length. the diff is in the middle/ to anyone with rear noises: Does the noise go away when u apply the brakes? uni joints or diff pinion backlash (freeplay): would make a clunck noise under normal & hard accel. and quick de-accel. Grinding noise: worn out or dry tail shaft centre bearing. has anyone jacked up the rear of the car driven it in gear until it made the noise and have someone underneath the car trying to locate where the noise is coming from.

i have Tein HA's. i have heard that the bush in the top plate can wear out and make a knocking noise. Mine are bloody stiff. i can't go 140km/h on the roads up here, without getting sore kidneys or hitting my head on the roof or window. Do you have helper springs? if so are they fully compressed? i did adjust the rebound all the way soft on the front, it was like driving my old XF with stuffed shocks, damn scary.

the onl reason i soaked them in oil was to get rid of the old oil and to make sure they weren't blocked, and that they filled up will oil. The motor was turned over by hand several times, it was also sitting for 2 weeks so that doesn't mean shit about shit. The head was faced and had a valve grind, using std cams. i didn't had adj cam gears before, but i will have them when i put it back together. what are the specs used. 2 degrees adv intake. 4 degrees retarded exhaust? i agree with lukevl about the lifters, but i thought that they bled down under high rpm then take a couple of mins to return to normal.

a new resistor pack from nissan is $160 it was an easy job, but then again i had my motor out.

JWT BB-700: aka disco potato by JWT is a 62 trim, .86 a/r Garrett GT28RS turbo. 31LB/Min or 448cfm @ 2PR @ 72% efficiency. 37LB/Min or 535cfm max flow @ 25psi. 30psi max boost limited by compressor wheel speed. HKS GT2530: uses compressor of T3 63 trim, flows a little more but slightly less efficient than the T3 60 trim ) 30LB/Min or 434cfm @ 2PR @ 65% efficiency. 32LB/Min or 463cfm max flow @ 25.7psi. 28psi max boost limited by compressor wheel speed. HKS GT2540: The POS 2540 uses To4E 46 trim compressor. 60mm housing inlet. 36LB/Min or 520cfm @ 2PR @ 68%. 39LB/Min or 564cfm @ 2PR @ 60%. 42LB/Min or 602cfm max flow @ 60% @ 19psi. 30.8psi max boost limited by compressor wheel speed. HKS GT2835: uses GT35 71mm 52 trim compressor. 42 LB/Min or 608cfm @ 2.7PR or 24.6psi @ 60%. 32psi max boost limited by compressor wheel speed. HKS GT3037: uses GT37 76mm 52trim compressor. 70mm housing inlet. 49 LB/Min or 709cfm max flow @ 2.4PR @ 60%. 33psi max boost limited by compressor wheel speed Garrett GT30R: uses GT37 76mm 56trim compressor. 4 inch compressor inlet, 2.5 inch outlet, 60mm 84trim turbine, T3 inlet flange, 4 inch outlet, .82 and 1.06 A/R. 52 LB/Min or 752cfm max flow @ 2.7PR @ 68% efficiency. 36psi max boost limited by compressor wheel speed.

They worked when i did them. i used 33 GTR cams. i blew the oil out of the lifters then soaked them in oil for 2 hours before installing them in. This was done during a full rebuild, and it ran fine until sunday night when it spun number 6 bearing. so know i have to pull it apart again and i will check the condition out

I am in need of a number 6 conrod and cap for a RB20det silver top in good condition. thanks

2nd failure: Engine 500kms old happened last night. TYPE: no 6 conrod nut come off and got mangled, possible spun bearing, bend conrod, stuffed crank REASON: put conrod cap on backwards when rebuilt engine. Had car on dyno getting tuned up to 5000rpm last week, went for a drive last night, 1st through to 4th gear up to 6000rpm, did this once then, *rattle *rattle. MODS: stock turbo 8psi, GTR cams, GTR injectors, 3" exhaust, FMIC, 044 SUSP. TIRES: Tein HA's, Toyo Proxes T1-S comments: i don't know how i put it on wrong i checked it about 10 times. maybe i shouldn't have done that bit at night, other than that goes good, will have better investigation of damage tommorow when i pull it all apart. i really don't won't to have to replace my conrod as it doesn't look bent but i think it may have suffered a bit of fatigue what do you guys reckon.

R32 gts-t RB20det 1st failure: TYPE: ALL ring lands cracked several times REASON: driving car without tune and 1 bar boost MODS: HKS 3037s, FMIC, 3" exhaust, 044 SUSPENSION: Tein HA Comments: do not drive car with with broken ring land, and catch can, hard. painted my car with oil several times. drove in this state for over 18 Months

Wheel boyz in brisbane are the aussie dealers for 'ro_ja motegi' Advanti are the suppliers for Rays Engeneering wheels Any place that sells enkei, advanti should be able to get them. we got a set about 3 years ago the were advanti but looked just like the other two. The only reason you may not be able to find them is because they have been discontinued, that is what i found when i went to buy some Ro_ja wheels. Log onto the motgei web site and email them about what size/ car etc. and they will tell you if they have them to suit.

i still say vaccum leaks. nv033- if you add fuel and it runs then more than likely there is that is not getting metered being sucked into the intake. i.e vaccum leak

here doggy here pup. ha ha Your 370 degree seat duration don't mean shit, all hydraulic lifted engines would have 360 degree contact. the only difference it would make would be the .05mm clearance that the hydraulics don't have making them open sooner and close later. AS for as i can make sense of your 10 minute masterpiece. GTR cams Intake: open at -220 degrees close at 5 degrees Exhaust: open at -10 degrees close at 210 degrees hydro cams Intake: open at -245 degrees close at 20 degrees Exhaust: open at -20 degrees close at 230 degrees If the GTR cam graph is continued down to 0 to replicate them operating in a hydraulic lifted engine then we get: Itake : open at -255 degrees close at 30 degrees Exhaust: open at -30 degrees close at 240 degrees The only problem i can see is that the intake valve being closing later may cause compression to be lost. easy fix adj, cam gears advanced some more. just don't hit pistons OK if i have wasted the last 20 mins doing this then boo hoo. they work in my car and that's fine with me.

virgin white

What gauge is the defi one? what size

What gauge is the defi one? what size