vitz_n1

Price Drop - $4250 - TAKE IT AWAY 0419888894

Hi All, So ive got my car for sale...again. Here is the original for sale thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/294143-rb25-r32-basic-mods-8500-obo-within-next-2-weeks/ Pics are here http://picasaweb.google.com/103934979832848761647/CarSalePics02# The only thing that has changed from the above is that i had an oil leak from the from cam shaft oil seal. I have replaced that now but simply dont have time or motivation to re-asseble the car, hence the cheap price. Need the car gone asap people as im being sent away for work again within the next month. Located in VIC - Blackburn Contact on 0419888894 anytime to discuss. Ryan

Bump.

No problem jinman. I mentioned earlier it needed intrusion bars. Thats how he knows. Anyway, looks like ill be in town for a month longer than expected so it'll be for sale for a few more weeks.

Thanks mate. I thought the price was cheap as well. I had heaps more interest 9 months ago when the I was asking $1250 more. Possibly the price is leading people to believe the car is in bad condition or something wrong with it. I can assure everyone this is not the case and i just need to sell her!

bump - open to reasonable offers

My radiator fan bolts snapped and the fan went off balance and started grinding against the radiator.... it stripped the paint and all the fins are a copper color. I just got another radiator and it looks aluminium to me though.... so im at a loss now.... I just wanted to know so i knew if i could silver solder or not. But damage was to bad to repair anyway.

Thanks for the responses people. picked one up today. Thanks again.

Bump

Offers? Anyone interested if I get her engineered?

As per title. Show me what you have. Feel free to call for quick sale. 0419 888 894 Located in melb

i will buy. pm if its still for sale

Yeah i thought it may have been aluminium due to how light it is. However, after inspecting it appears to be copper... the fins def are at least. Thanks, all solved.

i used to have the same problem. Try adjusting the mixture screw... i think thats what its called. Its the screw on the manifold, on the same unit as the aac valve but on the other side. Wind that out a few turns, then start her up. If you still have trouble, get the car to temp and check your timing. I did this and new plugs and it fixed her right up. However, it took a few goes to get it right with that screw, it progressively got better and better as i screwed out so i just did it one turn at a time. 2.5 turns got her perfect for me. Mine was fully screwed in at first and therefore letting no air in and flooding i think... sounds like the same for you.

As per title. Thanks for the help.

**Update** Just serviced her today. New oil and filter, tran fluid, spark plugs, checked timing and compression. Compression results were 158 158 161 156 160 158, that was with throttle closed, so i was very pleased with these results. With the timing belt, tensioner, idler pulley, head gasket, exhaust and inlet gasket, valves and seals all replaced she sure is nice and fresh. Running beautifully! Also put a new battery and reco'd alternator in as the batt light was starting to come on intermittently and battery draining. All fixed now. Tyre placard is now done and i bought the side indicators, ill try fond time to wire them up tomorrow.

Haha no prob. My number is there if you have any more questions don't hesitate to call.

Ok. Photo album has been updated with those photos. Let me know if you need more. They probably aren't the best but i hope that gives you the idea.

I thought that may have been the next question. Sorry should have cleared that up in previous post. The previous owner used this as a track car. He changed the doors to ones without side intrusion for weight reduction. Also had interior stripped etc... So i bought it with RB20 and replaced all the interior and bits he had taken off.... besides the doors. At that stage i wasn't thinking of doing the conversion, nor did i realise it was necessary for engineering. As for the child restraints....i dont know...maybe he thought it looked a bit silly and took it off... i probably would have done the same Also, yes it is running standard R33 ECU. If anyone needs re-assurance i can take a photo of the cpmpliance plates on the car and post them up.

The biggest pain for eng cert is it needs side intrusion bars for the doors. I'm looking around for some now. I was just gonna put some on, get the cert, swap them back then re-sell the doors. Anyway so side intrusion bars, side indicators, tyre placard, baby restraint, noise level test. For RWC it will be fine. Ride height is actually legal. The exhaust tucks up nice, looks a lower than it is. I guess wheel bearing would need to be done.

Ok. Forgot to add my number for any questions. Name is Ryan and No: 0419 888 894 Pics are uploaded here: http://picasaweb.google.com/10393497983284.../CarSalePics02#

Im going back overseas in a few weeks so need to sell my car. So i had this car for sale about 9 months ago but it didn't sell before i left overseas. Im now back for a short period and need to sell it. I had it for sale for $8500 last time and had 3 offers. 2 of $8000 and 1 of $7750. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...50-t294143.html Its now been sitting in the garage for 9 months being started every 1 - 2 weeks to keep her fresh. So based on this i am fairly firm on this price of $6750 so please no low balling. Car is a Wine red R32 with RB25 conversion. Motor has 80 000 km on the clock. Chassis has 150 000 from memory... ill have to confirm that. Also has 12 months rego on it. The good Recently the tensioner let go and my valves bent. When replacing them i decided to clean up the whole top end to had all manufacturing imperfections clean up on the head. Also has new head gasket and head surfaced, valves and stem seals, tensioner and idler pulley. Also new exhaust and inlet mani gasket..... so head is pretty much as good as new. Anyway so car has RB25 conversion. Still has RB20 g/box. Mods Buddy club N+ coilovers all round - Awesome suspension BTW, by far the best ive driven on in its price range. Greddy type m front mount 3" exhaust turbo back Exedy heavy duty organic clutch Few things inside, trust gear knob, omori din gauges. Bosch 040 fuel pump unknown aftermarket rear camber arms Rear spoiler off hole filled and resprayed 32 gtr rear wheels Turbo smart plumback BOV What i'd suggest doing Some of these may well get done if i can find time before i go: Left rear wheel bearing to be replaced... i have bearing unit sitting in my bedroom, just gotta get out the and change over. Left rear camber to be adjusted more + or right more - as they are uneven and pulls to the left..... so basically needs a wheel alignment. It is running rather rich on standard ECU and pops and farts a bit on de-acceleration and dumping a bit too much fuel when it comes on boost, so i'd at-least get a piggy back tune. Has a dint about the size of a 5c coin on the boot lid, not very deep at all. also a chip about 2mm in diameter on rear quater panel also another small dint on roof. Other than that body is straight. *** Please note *** I have had the engineering check done for the car and paid half of the fee ($250) there are a couple of small things required for the cert plus the remaining $250. I would allow $1000 to have the car engineered. If you can do mechanical work yourself then maybe a little less. That also includes the cost of the certificate. So thats all i can think of at the moment. I've tried to explain everything i can think of. Honestly, this car has been very well looked after. Its rarely driven and serviced regularly with mobil 1. Id really love to spend a month or so getting it to where i want for sale but i simply dont have time. Price is $6750. Located in east burbs of Melbourne When i can get these photos to upload i will... not working atm for some reason.

Hey all. Real sorry about the delay with pics. just been flat out and everytime i wash my car it bloody rains. It is not registered with the 25. Just needs to have the engineering finalised. I have the report and receipt, all the needs to be done is finish off the few things that the engineer requires and pay $250. It also has 6 months reg. Ill try go get some pics now.

post update with location

Firstly, ill try and get some pictures up tomorrow. Im going overseas in a couple of weeks so need to sell my car. Car is a Wine red R32 with RB25 conversion. Motor has 80 000 km on the clock. Chassis has 150 000 from memory... ill have to confirm that. The good Recently the tensioner let go and my valves bent. When replacing them i decided to clean up the whole top end to had all manufacturing imperfections clean up on the head. Also has new head gasket and head surfaced, valves and stem seals, tensioner and idler pulley. Also new exhaust and inlet mani gasket..... so head is pretty much as good as new. Anyway so car has RB25 conversion. Still has RB20 g/box. Mods Buddy club N+ coilovers all round - Awesome suspension BTW, by far the best ive driven on in its price range. Greddy type m front mount 3" exhaust turbo back Exedy heavy duty organic clutch Few things inside, trust gear knob, omori din gauges. Bosch 040 fuel pump unknown aftermarket rear camber arms Rear spoiler off hole filled and resprayed 32 gtr rear wheels Turbo smart plumback BOV Paint work is great condition, comes up a treat, i really wish i had the time get it professionally cut and polished. What i'd suggest doing Some of these may well get done if i can find time before i go: Left rear wheel bearing to be replaced... i have bearing unit sitting in my bedroom, just gotta get out the and change over. Left rear camber to be adjusted more + or right more - as they are uneven and pulls to the left..... so basically needs a wheel alignment. It is running rather rich on standard ECU and pops and farts a bit on de-acceleration and dumping a bit too much fuel when it comes on boost, so i'd at-least get a copgy back tune. Has a dint about the size of a 5c coin on the boot lid, not very deep at all. also a chip about 2mm in diameter on rear quater panel also another small dint on roof. Other than that body is straight. I have had the engineering check done for car and paid half of the fee ($250) there are a couple of small things required for the cert plus the remaining $250 So thats all i can think of at the moment. I've tried to explain everything i can think of. Honestly, this car has been very well looked after. Its rarely driven and serviced regularly with mobil 1. Id really love to spend a month or so getting it to where i want for sale but i simply dont have time. Price is $8500 negotiable. Feel free to make offers, most likely, best reasonable offer within 2 weeks will get it. Located in east burbs of Mlebourne