ACEMANN

I figured since I would be mentioning "custom mounts" and asking about swapping around motor mounts this would be the best place for the question. I assumed that if the custom mounts for the Z32 are designed for an RB25/26, there might be issues with the length or angle of the RB20's aluminum mounts versus the RB25/26 aluminum mounts. If I can swap around the aluminum mounts from the various motors, then I might be able to get away with using the custom 25/26 Z32 mounts with the RB20 IF there is such a problem. Longitudinal placement could still be an issue - again I do not have the resources to investigate. RB26's are terribly expensive, with 25's not too far behind. It would be nice to find an RB20 solution for the Z without the "premium" price tag. There are still logistical issues with finding 25/26 trans units and mounts - it really interests me since no one has even looked into it. Yes the R25 or 26 offers more, but the RB20 is capable of decent power. Personal preference really..

Oh wow - thanks! I'm in the US and no one here could give me a straight answer. I have access to custom RB25/26 mounts for my project (RB in Z32) but not "specifically" for RB20. I'm sure the 25/26 mounts (aluminum structure) are somewhat different lengths than the 20 units, but as long as the 25/26 mounts can bolt to the 20 block (like you say they can) the differences in mounting position should be neglegeble. If anyone has a second opinion or has additional experience please feel free to add to this. Thanks again!

Just wondering if anyone has had the opportunity to compare the RB20DET motor mounts with the ones from the 25/26 motors. Not just the rubber mounts (which from GTS-T to RB25/26 conversions seems to work) but the actual aluminum mounts that bolt to the block. From what I have "heard" the answer is "no" and I would tend to expect that much, but ANY insight would be appreciated. I just don't have the resources to look at this myself.

I need help: does anyone know if there is a difference between the transmissions supplied with the RB20DET vs. the RB25DET? My main concern at the moment is if the bellhousings are the same (interchangable). Any info on the differences would be appreciated! Thanks... Cameron

<_< Nothing like motivating peers This is the ORIGINAL link to the image...it is on Nissan Japan's website at this resolution and size. I dunno if it can be read if the original image is lame as well: http://history.nissan.co.jp/GT-R/9901GT-RF...IMG/ch_a3_h.jpg Thanks for any help, and even looking...

Did you click on the "View Pictures" link? It brings up another page that displays a small thumbnail of the diagram...when you click on it the larger image will be displayed. I have a link to the original diagram...I dunno if you can read it though: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...pic=70832&st=20 It is about halfway down...I appreciate any help! Even partial translations will give me helpful clues...

Doh...I used the actual picture's link...not the shared link. I updated the link in my first post... Thanks

This is the last HICAS document I have in need of translating...it explains how the R34's Yaw Rate Feedback Super HICAS calculates the rear steering angle. I have only a few lines in the picture that need translating, and I circled them in red. I have many HICAS related documents, and the complete R33 wiring diagram with wire colors and their functions...a by-product of my HICAS install in my Z. I promise your efforts will not go to waste! Here is the link...hopefully it will work: http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome...=8AZsm7Fm4cOGEQ Just list the translations as if you were reading top-down. Thanks guys...soon a wealth of HICAS info will be upon you... -Cameron

Thought I'd give an update... I am still waiting for my wheel bearing to come in...the only reason that I haven't installed the HICAS yet is because I want to pull the spindle and do all the rear suspension work at once. I have also installed HKS Hipermax II dampers since the HICAS system install. Looks hella awesome...and rides like a dream I have all of the ball joints, snap rings, bolts, etc to attach the HICAS actuator to the spindles. They are new of course! I have also aquired the steel sheet metal (3/16 inch thick hot rolled steel) to make the bracket that holds the actuator. I will minimize, if not eliminate, the need to weld the assembly. All bolts are Grade 8 of course. I'll probably get a few things seam-welded, but for it to actually function, it won't be necessary...more of a long-term durability precaution. Over a month, and no HICAS codes! It has been in my hatch the whole time, actuator and all lol. Covered up by a white towel... I will also post the wire colors, and a revised R33 system schematic later down the road. Nothing real soon, but I just want to give a little back for all the helpful insight this forum has given me. I have yet to reveal my creation to the stateside Z32 community...but I will soon enough...hehehe More pics and, maybe (if I can find the space), a vid of the system in action on the Z...more to come!! Cameron

bump

LOL...just realized I never posted pics of the HICAS module...here you go: http://share.shutterfly.com/osi.jsp?i=EeAM2TdizcOHDkg

Here are the pics: http://share.shutterfly.com/osi.jsp?i=EeAM2TdizcOHDi4 I added a few pics of the exterior of my car ('93 Z32) at the end...at 100K miles she doesn't look too bad don't you agree? And yes I know...I have fender gap...due to a diet. Suspension is coming very very soon. Hope you enjoy the pics and feel free to ask questions about what you are looking at! I will be working on a bracket design for the actuator when I find some time...hopefully I can get my local Z shop to fab it for me. They are really good with custom parts (intake manifolds, headers) and shouldn't have any trouble. NOTE: I had trouble clicking on the pictures on the first page...go ahead and view the pics on the second page, then go back to the first page...then it works fine. You might just want to go ahead and "view slideshow"...just a little FYI... Enjoy!

Pics will be uploaded soon...I took quite a few during the install. I'll probably just link the hosting site, it'll make it easier to view them. But yea, it works. LOL...I am so amazed I pulled this off...I'm not tripping any HICAS codes. I ran the diagnostic and at first came up with with a Main and Sub-Sensor code (note that I wasn't tripping the warning light during normal operation though). A quick scan of the service procedures ooutlined in the R34 manual descibes that this code can displayed under diagnostic conditions because the last known value for that sensor does not match what is being sensed. Makes sense, considering that the HICAS actuator came from an S14 and the control module came from an R33. Essentially the rear angles didn't match. After I ran through the full diagnostic the codes cleared (under diagnostoc mode). So, I have all inputs functioning perfectly. Amazing! FYI...I haven't mounted the actuator just yet...it is sitting in my rear hatch with the rats-nest of wires I have at the moment I think you guys will like the control box I made...I can switch off ALL power to the HICAS system just like I planned. I swear I about crapped my pants when I made the actuator move while in diagnostic mode...a very very rewarding experience indeed!! I can't really tell when it is moving while I am driving...mostly due to the fact I can't turn around while driving (not a good idea). BUT , I can hear the relay click above certain speeds and around some turns, telling me the control module is switiching power to the actuator. Like I said though, I am not tripping any codes, and I have performed the diagnostic many, many times. Like I said though, I've yet to mount the actuator, but I'll get that fab'd soon enough. I'm going to design a bracket that uses the existing lower-link bolt holes. The actuator will be bolted to the bracket, and the bracket bolted to the lower link bolt holes. I'm going with steel of course. For the curious, I have detailed drawings and have documented what I have been doing (no essays, but I kept track of things). I'll try to get the photos up tonight!

IT WORKS!!!!!!!! SUCCESSFUL INTERFACE BETWEEN R33 YAW-RATE FEEDBACK ELECTROMOTIVE SUPER HICAS AND Z32 FAIRLADY!!!!! MANY PICS SOON!!!! yea, I'm a little happy :uh-huh: -Cameron

lol...that would be pretty sweet. I have no clue as to how much that would cost...just finding the parts would be hard enough. I haven't seen too many G35x's running around, let alone wrecked already. Does the Stagea have the FM platform as well? I didn't know that. An AWD/4WS TT Z33 would definately kill some Porsche's, and maybe a Ferrari or two