DCIEVE

Yes down low on the passenger side.

Single stage Moroso external oil pump comes with Lewis Engines bracket (suit RB's) and Ross 38t pulley with pulley shields (500 cost on it's own). Just add a sump with external pickup and balancer of your choice to complete the setup. 1k

Some fine mesh would be wise, plenty of stones bounce around under the car.

A previous engine of mine used a little oil but didn't produce any smoke at all. Leak down was in the high teens. If there's no oil in the pcv system just keep it topped up. Though a catch can or air oil separator is probably a good idea on any rb.

I did the same as above. Used the factory trim to transfer the outline and handle holes to cardboard then took to a shop to cut from sheet. Perfect fit first time.

Posted results of per cylinder egt 5-6 years ago. Stock plenum required corrections greater than 10%, swings around on/off boost pretty wildly.

The rb30 cranks walk around so you need plenty of clearance and oil pressure. And don't rev the thing too hard. As above, you set clearances with the studs torqued so that's not it unless the build was botched.

That's a ~400whp terminal speed... Seems a bit light on for a turbo this size even at the low boost level?

Has anyone considered r35 gtr coils, appears to be what's in the Godzilla kit...

I ran a line between the two, just tap the thermostat housing.

Nothing has changed it seams.

A second hand aim or racepak display dash is very cheap these days, I'd say you'd come out cash positive after selling your existing gauges. You can connect the sm4 serial directly to the dash and you're done. If you haven't already you can send the wideband to the sm4 and from there to the dash also. Main issue is the sm4 is input limited so if you want to expand further you will need a logger dash or standalone logger (this is what I've done). As a bonus then you also get gps, accelerometers and logging.

An update on this one. The guys at Omega have been very proactive and despite not finding anything out of the ordinary with the old damper have sent me a current version replacement. All going well the engine builder will have it back together soon so I can give it a run. It's a nice bit of gear.

Sounds like a good combination. One thing I'd suggest is to give the bearing clearances some thought. The rb30 seems to need much more generous clearances than an rb26 if you're using the standard crank. Also consider drilling and tapping the block for the larger rb26 head studs. I assume you've already thought of a good set of main studs etc.

My Ross damper was purchased in the pre Omega technical days. We recently pulled the engine to fit a bigger sump and open up some clearances only to find the balancer has chewed up the nose of the crank. Car has only done two dyno sessions and one light shakedown. Bearings looked good fortunately but we have some work to do to clean up the front of the crank. The guys at Omega have the balancer for inspection at the moment. Have to say so far they've taken it seriously and aren't doing any of the finger pointing you normally expect in this sort of situation. Sounds like there have been a number of significant design improvements since Omega took over as well. Whether I'm game to put it back onto the engine will depend on what happens next.