DCIEVE

Try metalcraft, or if your really fussy LF.

I believe they are one and the same, your housing looks a little 'cleaner' than mine though.

Looks great mate. Have you considered a catch can? Might be a good idea if your thinking of doing any track work.

Along with checking the manifold flange for flatness, the t4 twin scroll gt35 atp housing I received had a lot of loose sitting slag deep inside the scrolls (out of sight). Worth thoroughly checking for the sake of the exhaust wheel.

Ability of your machinist to achieve the required surface finish appears to be the difference between the guys who have problems and those that don't.

The idea behind purchasing this thing in the beginning was to have something I could use in local club motorsport events, however somewhere along the line this was forgotten. Fortunately a drive at the Nurburgring while in Europe renewed my focus.. I picked up some weds tc 005's on yahoo, 17*9.5 +30 and only 7.7kg a corner! Massive brake clearance for a 17" wheel as well, this shot is trial fitting them over a mates f50 355mm brembo set-up (he liked them so much he went and bought a set). They're a bit of a squeeze up front, this is with 255 wide v70's. There will be another few deg of camber when it hits the track so clearance shouldn't be a problem. Also found some alcons to go on the front, and r34 brembo's for the rear. And while deciding what to do about the 6boob manifold a FullRace t4 twin scroll manifold popped up that I couldn't say no to...

The cometic mls gasket kits are extremely good value out of the US at the moment, you can pick up a complete top and bottom kit (with head gasket, valve stem seals etc etc) for roughly the cost of a jap HG. It's fairly obvious but select the thickness based on the cr you want to run.

Some time before heading to the drags it was reversed into by a careless council worker so I took the opportunity to fit a uras kit and a wingless boot. Std 4 stud rear axles were fitted so it could be driven to the paint shop and a few weeks later into storage. It looked pretty odd with std 4 stud wheels! Revised catch can (routing blowby to the back of the car) OS quad plate, pita to fit with the motor in - would have been a lot easier to remove the motor & box together and work on it that way! Just my luck, the day I flew out the bloody axles arrived.... Roughly 1 month after leaving we returned to Perth for a friends wedding... the plan was to fit the axles, shoot the car for HPI, check the tune and get to the drags again. Sean at ASG ran it up on his hub dyno, without the slipping clutch and wheelspin the 6boob related boost control issues were even worse, with boost creeping to 1.7bar. Unfortunately bad weather saw the drags cancelled, but at least the axles were fitted. Axles fitted And the rear wheels back on. The weather meant we weren't able to get any good shots for the article besides a few in the garage.. It was then back into storage for the end of '08 and most of '09.

Does anyone know if Autronic have made any progress toward calibrating the sm4 knock control module for rb's? I was told they were doing the calibrations in March last year but no word since...

The alternator was rebuilt, a long process after a few parts went missing... The existing fuel lines were replaced with speedflow teflon braid connected to the original hardlines flared to accept screw on fittings. An Aeromotive fuel reg & HKS rail were also added together with 750cc injectors. Around this time some new wheels showed up The factory rb26 loom was in pretty bad shape so the powerfc was ditched for a wire in option. After dealing with endless headaches due to the ecu on my previous hr31 (Link plus) I went with the option I thought least likely to give me grief in the future (so far so good) - so an Autronic SM4, 500r cdi and Mercury coils were ordered. The factory radiator was replaced with a koyo item with twin spal thermo's. A remote filter block was also added to the existing oil cooler and the lines re-run. Shortly after it went in for wire, turning over for the first time in 12 odd months on the 18th of January (2008) about 4 hours before a local car show (Motorvation). Needless to say it copped a beating at Motorvation.... With the hicas/ps removed the rear subframe was moving around a lot on the factory subframe bushes, so solid items were sourced together with a nolathane diff mount. Before going in for the final tune poncams, individual EGT's and wideband 02 were installed. EGT's and modified manifold Poncams and camp cap studs Aaand EGT's installed The Mercury coils were finally installed (had been running the std coils with the cdi) and it was tuned to 530rwhp at 1.5/6'ish bar with afr's flat at ~11.0. The hr31 irs wasn't particularly suited to being strapped down on the dyno so wheelspin was a major problem. Managed to destroy two nearly new tyres on the dyno The following weekend I took it down to the hi-tech titles completing only one rolling start pass before breaking both stub axles attempting a launch on the second. The first pass returned an 11.8 at 128mph with a 2.2sec 60ft (rolled of the line) and the nearly new os giken twin plate slipping badly at the top end (the clutch was later sold and to my knowledge is still holding up in a 400+rwhp rb25). I'd say it went bang a split second after this shot... One of my favourite photo's of the car from the same day Given 5 stud stub axles are very rare for these things(coming from z31's) the car sat in the garage for the next 6 months while I waited for billet stub axles & companion flanges out of the US. Ouch.. Before the new axles arrived I was offered a position which involved moving to Noway to work in our Design office for 12 months - effectively putting the project on hold while I focused on work and did some travel.

The F150 is a 2002 model, 5.4l V8, circa 55k

I picked this car up from fatz early in 06 while on a secondment to Sydney. In hindsight it was (very) rough but having grown bored of my previous 4door hr31 gts this felt like a big step up and it did have a lot of good gear, inc a fairly fresh rb26, 5stud, mechanical diff, coilovers and importantly was engineered. It was great fun on the old pacific hwy! It went over the pits fairly easily once back in WA and after many hours work it eventually looked like this, changes included the rb25 gearbox, all new ps lines, new rotors, removed a few kg of redundant wiring and the wheels from my old hr31. In hindsight I should have left it there, it was good fun to drive (~400rwhp), relatively quiet and fully legal. But niggling problems were drivig me nuts, in particular nearly no control over boost with the xr6 turbo, and so it began. The xr6 turbo was replaced by a regular .82 reared gt35, 6boob manifold and custom 3.5" stainless exhaust. I also made up new ally piping to suit the new 100mm cooler. Not to mention many hours cleaning and a lot of polishing... Also added a custom 4" ally intake pipe, winged rb26 sump made by a mate and some other bits and pieces before completely stripping the intake side down and re-cad plating everything (massive PITA!) To be continued...

The old man has an immaculate f150 dual cab he's considering selling if anyone needs to tow 3t+ without breaking a sweat.

I have the mercury coils mounted in the stock location with very short leads, looks neat and haven't had a problem with it. You wouldn't know they aren't coil on plug without removing them. I'll dig up a pic.

You really should stop posting ill informed opinion as fact - this is complete rubbish.

These require a 14mm rail, and new pintle caps to fit the std rb26 injector ports.

Not the case. Here is Eric Hsu talking about breaking T04's on E85 in ways he didn't see on ms109. Ref: http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_articles/articletype/articleview/articleid/1723/pageid/2405/sierra-sierra-evo-update-borgwarner-efr-turbos.aspx

Referring to the baffles that bolt to the cam cover on rb26's.

A few companies do kits which might be an easier option. Dirt Garage, Lewis Engines and Godzilla are the ones I'm aware off. As for the rear head drain, the oil control thread has a lot of information on this band-aid solution.

Purely from a cost point of view, the 3.5" stainless is expensive, from memory the cost per bend was roughly double what I had previously paid for 3" and took a while to find. 4" is more common (i.e. cheaper) but in my case there wasn't room. There are plenty of threads discussing the merits of big exhausts.

Interested which it is, does e85 run cooler or hotter egt's. The SSE lancer kept breaking turbo's, apparently due to high egt's with e85 - yet elite racing is talking about egt's ranging from 600 to 750 deg C. I know of two cars on pump with individual egt's (identical logging set-ups) but otherwise quite different engine set-ups which both run near-on identical egt's ~900degC, approx 1" from the head. I don't know you can say monitoring egt's is expensive (difficult maybe for people with twins). For less than 1k your up and running... small change when even a budget engine build is north of 10k.

Very easy to overtighten those bolts and turn the head off.

There are some prices in the link I posted earlier. 2.7k US for the external wg 8374... so over 3k landed. Hopefully these are only preliminary numbers...

??

Not sure how accurate this is but... http://www.diesel-plus.com/turbo_search.cf...orgWarner%20EFR