DCIEVE

Might be making yourself look like the dope there chief. What is power? Work done. You can have all the torque in the world and go no where if no work is being done. Accceleration is the result of work, obv torque is directly related to speed and power. Two cars with identical power are accelerating at the same rate for the same mass, one car cannot accelerate faster without doing more work (power) than the other. In reality the car with the highest average power will be quicker. If the gearing is right the car having that power at higher rpm (ie less torque) will likely be quicker given traction limitations assuming the same average power/weight etc etc.

You developing double the torque in order to make the power at that speed but will you accelerate twice as fast?

You must be dreaming to think no one is out there trying with 400hp. A manually shifted rwd skyline running ~121mph (400hp) and dipping into the tens would be a minor miracle. Dedicated drag cars will only just squeeze a ten with that sort of terminal speed and yes I can list first hand examples if you want. The guy asked what he should expect, I would put money on the car running 11.5+ like everyone else!

You still haven't named a single manual rwd skyline running, or even close to 10's with 400hp. Back to reality Ash.

Your reaching. 300rwkw in a manual skyline on drag radials is realistically mid to high 11's.

Show me a full weight, manual skyline running 10's with 300rwkw. Didn't think so.

I assume your original flywheel had been 'lightened', not the best idea for a stock flywheel so your better of with the full weight original from a safety perspective despite the performance compromise. I would seriously consider going with a proven clutch from npc or most of the jap brands. The $ up front are saved down the road. Is the rattle when the clutch is in/out or engaged and driving?

Don't let the facts get in the way of the beat up they've got going here. lol

How did webber manage to drop two spots at the end there? Was looking like an ok result until that happened!

afaik 33gtr are ~9.5kg which is getting up there, 32gtr by comparison are a couple kg lighter ea.

Have a look on yahoo, if you dont mind something a little dated in terms of design then there are quite a few wheels around te37 weight and lighter that can be landed for ~500-1k. I'll let you figure out which models fall in the <8kg range though

I was talking street car with 5000km+ between oil changes (ie 90% of people on here). If your track car breathes enough oil to affect the level in the sump then the drain might be a good idea, as well as frequent oil changes! The crap in my can after street driving is condensation that smells like fuel and after a run on a skid pan it becomes oily water that stinks like fuel - there isn't a lot there but I'd much rather it didnt go back to the sump. I previously ran a can that drained back into the cam cover breathers, and the oil was a fuel smelling mess before 1000km's, so I have tried it.

I'm with you on venting from the sump, but I still can't see how doubling the sump vent as a drain is a good idea on a street car with 5000+k's between oil changes. Why not send it to the top of the can like the other breathers and throw out the crap that builds up in the can??

Great vid!

We added wings but kept the factory depth on mine so it's level with the x-member.... I haven't hit the track with slicks yet, do you guys think the depth is likely to be a problem? Holds somewhere between 7 and 8 litres from memory with one of the jap baffle kits. http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb146/h...pe/motorin3.jpg This will be good, where are you putting the pump and when will the kits be available? (no a/c or p/s to worry about). Hopefully I dont need a vipec to run it

volk le37

Is the soft tow hook an off the shelf item? Keep the updates coming!

Crazy high is a big call. I backed up 50hp difference but had serious wheelspin issues on the dd to the point of tread delaminating (tyres were a throw away afterwards). And there's no way the motor is being properly loaded when your blowing the tyres of the thing. I can see how it wouldnt work with those huge flares though!

pm sent

not only that but you don't need to buy two new tyres after a tune Win win

I assumed you weren't when you listed not having to empty a catch can as one of the benefits

May need to invest in a hub dyno...

Considered doing that but it really depends on being able to guarentee the exh will be in vacuum at all times, which means big exhaust and straight through mufflers etc. And if you do it direct from the head (with no tank in between) what happens when you dump a pile of oil into the breathers?

If that's true (doubt it) then it applies only to the haltech version, but check out the racepak forums for ecu compatibility (adaptor modules etc). And search around for the cheapest place to buy them - normally direct from the US is best, but Intune in WA were selling them incredibly cheap (950 for display only) when a friend checked towards the start of the year.

Any more details or pics of ashleys car? What's the e85 your using in the race cars worth p/l or drum?