DCIEVE

glad I'm not the only one with tape on my crescents haha So when do we get to see the flares?

Sounds good. So on top of the dash you just needed the interface module so it works with the ecu (I have an sm4 as well), and the usm module for additional inputs (oil/water temp, oil pressure etc).

Good feedback, thanks BCM. I'm assuming you have the logging dash with gps for speedo etc?

Would be very interesting to see how a twin scroll t4 1.06 a/r rear (as recommended by fr) would perform compared to the garden variety single entry t3/t4 0.8x. FR claimed spool and response would improve, but I wasn't convinced the difference would be great enough to justify the expense considering I'm already making pretty good power by 4000rpm (more than most low mount twin combinations I've seen).

WA at least the highest I've heard of is ~600 on a hub dyno but I dont know the specifics of the setup (a/r, boost etc). I'd say I could get there easily with more boost but who knows when the set-up will run out of legs, 'only' 25psi at the moment. Brockas set-up is as much as 110hp down on mine under 4500, something is amiss there.

NPC are an excellent clutch. Excellent work with the car - I heard from a friend of Ross's it had gone up in flames, is good to hear its actually alive and well! Have you ever driven a car with a twin plate clutch?

I seem to recall a few less powerful cars losing control at the motorplex (supposedly one of the best tracks in Oz) after making the same mistake of combining the wrong tyres. If memory serves one was a moderator on here at one stage? But let the bandwagon continue...

Ditto, my car was tuned at JEM then backed up 40hp less on two dyno's in WA.

Now I've watched the video, looks like drag slicks with radials on the front....

So many armchair experts.

There was an s12 gazelle running low 9's years back with what I understand was a standard rb25 trans and r200 long nose rear end.

You guy's are pretty hard on Kimmi, working in a Finnish company I can say that the majority of Fin's I've met show similar levels of enthusiasm.

Well this is a shock. http://www.michael-schumacher.de/?page=new...078〈=uk

This is looking good for webbers c'ship...vettel struggling (damage?), button well down and webber running at the pointy end. Anyone have a live stream?

its only another opinion, but the v-spec isn't a pretty beast.

Google innovate. Theres a few display options for the laptop, half dozen gauges, coloured bars etc but the graph is most useful. The issues aren't in the end cylinders. This is a completed tune. It's no where neat as a system like walk510 is talking about, each box only reads 4 thermocouples so you need two of em daisy chained together -gets a bit messy when its connected to the wideband as well. You get what you pay for with motec.

Check out the innovative stuff... the complete egt set-up set me back roughly 1k a year or so back and a mate welded bungs into the manifold. The benefit is you can run the innovative o2 in series with the egt and datalog the whole lot. The only downside is I can't get it to speak to the ecu so egt & o2 are logged seperately to everything else in the ecu. I was prompted to go with egt's after watching friends destroy expensive motors with detonation running 'safe' afr's and conservative tunes (stuff all timing).

There are plenty of kits available come with everything you need, you can have one all installed and running for ~1000-1500 (roughly the cost of a good wide band o2 sensor). I'm baffled why more people don't do it. I'm not sure that its for that last 2%, my only reasoning was to ensure everything is safe - even with a standard plenum I have very large corrections so you can be reasonably sure most people have a few cylinders running up to 10% leaner than the average number the o2 sensor is telling you - and the lean cylinders aren't the ones everyone around here blindly claim.

^^This example might help you understand! http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb146/h...se/messe_10.jpg Very nice build mate, keep the updates coming.

So you've converted to crank trigger, how does this affect driveability? Single tb makes life a little easier for map sensored cars yes? The so called best dont always get it right.

....which points to your tuner not knowing how to set-up the autronic. I run an sm4 and have no driveability issues whatsoever, no stalling, starts first crank warm or cold, no stutters or breakdowns and thats with very little dyno time.

sorry, did mean 322mm. i read this on one of your other posts and gave me the impression that some nissan car/version has 190 mm park brake, which is what i require.

hi mate. im chasing a rotor with the following specs 324x22mm 5x114.3 stud pattern and with a 190mm hand brake diameter (or as close to as possible) hub diameter is 60.1mm but thats not really that essential thinking the 350z track rotors might be exactly what im after (322x22..) if u can find a more suitable match - can u please send me a pm with prices and perhaps the offset of the brake shoe mateing surface from the back of the hat. this is to suit a custom setup on an ma70 supra. cheers

How long were the tie rod ends to begin with? And for duncan, how long are the jjap items?

I spent plenty of time looking into it some time ago but couldnt decide on an optimal way to set it up. Most people seem to run the pump of one cam cover vent (with a catch can in-line) and run a vacuum relief valve on the second cam cover. But then this gets back to the problem of drawing gases through the oil drain ports in the head. I was leaning towards drawing vacuum from the sump (maybe the second turbo oil drain seeing as I run a single), blocking one cam cover vent and running a vac relief valve on the second. Problem then is finding a pump capable of running continuously, most are designed for drag engines.