DCIEVE

Are you seriously still pedalling that dyno plot ?? How many times do people need to be told the mid range for the 35r is off due to the boost control? I havent even mentioned the 10.8-10.9 air fuel ratio's yet. Or the fact we didnt spend any time adjusting cams thanks to the rubber delaminating when it was originally tuned. How about we start comparing apples with apples. Rezlo, considering you were making only 340rwkw with your 35r I might suggest it wasnt setup particularly well and isnt a good comparison. Perhaps post more details so your not misleading people. I've come from a poorly setup gt35r which was boring as bat shit (xr6 3540) to my current setup and the difference is chalk and cheese.

sorry, fr actually offered a 1.06 ts t4 exh housing to suit the gt35 Are you comparing the xr6 gt35r? A ran one of those before switching to a proper gt35r and was roughly 100kw down on where I am now.....

I dont have my laptop with me right now but when I emailed fullrace a few weeks back I'm fairly sure they offered me a t4 .8x ts exh housing to suit my gt35. Btw you guys are all still neglecting the fact that my boost curve is piss poor, its not a good comparison against a t04z in the mid-range.

been discussed plenty in the 35r vs t04z thread, have a look if your interested.

lol bit sensitive? Was a question, not a dig. rb26 260 9.15 tomei gt35 1.6bar 435kw hd

you guys made more power lately?? http://www.antilag.com/power.htm

Well I went within a couple kw of 400rwkw on tenagah's dyno dynamics with a slipping clutch and delaminating rubber not forgetting there are more powerful gt35 equipped cars getting around... ie on the same hubber that I made 435odd another properly built 26 (272's etc) has done ~450rwkw. Ash, I believe Simon is referring to boost on the road loaded up in 4th which, if my car is anything to go by, gives much better results than the dyno.

I believe that plot is for cerbera (the other simon), not quite as full on as the original. Agree T04GTR, my 35r is far from boring (esp rwd) but it doesnt compare to the nothing nothing bang and scream to the limiter of a mates hks t04z - but he is cheating with a jun stroker he also has awd so its not a very fair comparison I spose.

I'm fairly sure thats my 35r in the plot above. Here is the original which explains the strange power curve. The mid-range is weak as its only 1.3bar, boost creeps as revs rise as does power. The drop-off up top is due to boost coming back down to where it should be. My head is stock with only tomei poncams whereas Simons gtr (I'm fairly sure thats his in the plot) has some headwork/cams. Looks like Paul has scaled my plot to account for the difference between hubbers and dd.

What are the design requirements as set out by cams - obv they set out some rules of thumb ie minimum wall thickness etc but they must also allow deviations based on detail design (analysis). Pay off for using higher grade steels is typically not worth it in structural applications due to the low inherent sf of a material with yield approaching uts being treated cautiously by the codes. If the design is for stiffness then the saving is negligible due to similar youngs modulus. If based purely on yield strength then the saving approaches 40%....depending on the design code of course (if the minimum wall thickness, for example, is not set in stone). Roy, there is sfa difference in density - the weight difference is due to the amount of material required to achieve the desired strength.

does the mazda sized ding come for free Nice work wrapping up the championship btw!

Teflon requires its own unique fittings with an olive etc -they are more expensive, but the difference isnt huge. I'm not sure, but seeing as your saying there is a nut it sounds like you have fittings designed for braid... post some pics so we can be sure. barbed hose end for rubber http://www.speedflow.com.au/catalogue/hose...ies400/end1.gif braid fitting http://www.speedflow.com.au/catalogue/hose...v10037/end1.gif

only teflon braid will help with the smell

thought I'd throw these up some spare covers I took the opportunity to have painted the same colour as the car while the kit was being done, is a poor photo that doesnt show the flake etc covers on the car along with everything else is all polished

great racing, nice tap on kerry and the end there!

The vipec brand must be a huge boost for link in Australia - back when I ran a link plus (6odd years ago) it was near on impossible finding an rb tuner willing to touch it - not that I could blame them, for 2grands worth of ecu plus the few grand in tuning I threw at it (over a few months) it was never close to being 'right'. Maybe under the vipec name some people will give it a second chance. Burnt once.....

yeh so do I... still doesnt explain why your 800rpm more responsive than any other 35r on rb26 I've heard. Do you have a dyno sheet with boost curve or are you approximating from road driving?

If thats a standard capacity 26 I'd like to hear more...

20psi at 4250-4300 here with a 35r .82, could be improved a few hundred rpm if the curve didnt lay over Any chance you can copy over the key details? It wont let me view the thread... edit; what rpm is a 32gtr doing at 120km/h??

Thats alot of injector for 250rwkw! What ecu? I expect injector control on most aftermarket ecu's is pretty good these days

Assuming you have reasonable compression it 'should' be making around 400rwkw at 25psi... I would be looking at base timing, a leak down test to check the valves are seating properly and a compression test will let you know if the comp ratio is in the ballpark. A low cr wont do you any favours. Letting it breathe is the key as dalefz1 has said, imo these are a few things you should consider: a 3.5" exh making sure non of the mufflers step down (magnaflow race series etc), keeping the inlet pipe 4" without stepping down for an 80mm afm, and perhaps most importantly a quality merge collector type manifold.

I looked into this a while ago as I was interested to trial a 3076 in place of my 3582 but looking on the garrett site it didnt look possible. Not that the 3076 dwg is particularly clear. http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...14568_1_2_3.jpg http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...R_700382_12.jpg

Brad, with that manifold I made 370hp at 1bar here in perth, so only 15psi, it made 396 on jem's dyno in Sydney (was running your cat in sydney, but was removed for the dyno in perth). The only draw back I can see with that manifold is the small id runners.... Very suprised you guys didnt check/set base timing!!? Adam, yeh Mick.

Thanks for your input. I currently have a 3582 .82 on a 6boost manifold, response, power are all very good (refer to earlier posts in this thread) but boost control is a real problem - believe it or not the current build was a result of similar boost control issues with an internally gated xr6 turbo so I'm essentially back to square 1 after more than a year of building the thing. Seeing as the manifold needs to come off regardless I'm looking at options - which is where the FR stuff has come in. I dont want to go with another 6boost manifold, but over 4k for a fr manifold isnt appealing if they arent perfect either.

I dropped FR an email and was told they have a t4 1.06 ts exhaust housing to suit the 3582... any thoughts? obv this would go together with one of there ts manifolds. cheers