DCIEVE

when did dyno printouts come into it?? vid of the run http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=GDsQb5DShrY

Interested to see a boost curve to back that up!

I think you've got it sewn up butters

scotch brite pads or whatever they're called, dont think i'd bother with the pistons still in the motor though.

With a 3582 .82 I'm making 1bar by 3900 and 1.4bar by 4300, the boost curve lays over after 1bar due to some fairly obvious boost control issues so I'd say 20psi could be done by 4100 or better, it also makes 435rwkw at 1.7bar on a hubber. My experience with a friends 26 using 2530's was closer to 4500 for the 1bar mark.

couldnt think of a less interesting way to do it, half the fun is in the build.

Agree, you've already removed all the material where mine ran into the steering rack (pictured). I'd be dumy fitting it to the motor and slotting it in minus goo and box first though.

I think your a little off on the predictions there, a 35r will make 400rwkw and more on a properly set-up motor... a t04z is only just getting started at that point. In terms of response, unique1's t04z on a stroker was roughly equivalent to my 35r with std capacity when we were running similar comp ratio's. In hindsight I would have gone a gt30r or similar, the 35r is too laggy to be quick around ahg or similar short tracks where most of the action is.

.82 35r will do 400rwkw no problem. If you plan on doing tight 1-2nd gear work (most wa events) and want to be remotely quick I think even the 35r is too large.

Of course they come in a range of diameters, widths and offsets. Didnt you ask the seller? If you have the wheels then its just a matter of measuring them if the id stickers arent there anymore.

Your post was fairly obviously saying shanef's are the ONLY ones that fit mate - I think pro-engines has every right to pull you up on that!

I was just told not to let the car idle for too long in the first few hours. I'd suggest the same go's for that fresh motor as well.

How far are people confident of pushing the standard rod bolts?

http://www.npcperformance.com.au/page/npc_twin_plate.html 2200 or thereabouts for a brand new twin plate is good value when you know it will never give you grief. The added benefit of NPC is they are very cheap to have rebuilt (should you ever want to sell it as a brand new clutch). May be a little overkill for your application though.

No can do. 26 is drilled for both, but not the other way round

OS Giken twin is like a standard clutch to drive and should last forever. Do a search on jim berry clutches.

This is the can I had put together, baffle on the feed, top outlet is -12 and can be piped to the intake which also has a -12 fitting incase I ever need to make it legal. Otherwise the top is plugged and vapour is directed to the back of the car through the other -12fitting. Breather lines themselves are -10. Imo this is all a waste if you hit the track and dont have mines cam cover baffles. Straight line stuff (dyno/drags) I dont get a drop of oil, so prob dont even need a can

I have twin spal thermo's on my rb26 with a thick 57mm koyo radiator and dont have any issues. The weekend we got it running it was straight to a local car show where it cruised around at speeds lower than 20km'h in 35-40deg heat with regular burnouts, sitting in lines for up to an hour idling etc. According to the ecu water temps never went above 87degC. The previous year with a clutch fan and stock radiator temps were only a few deg lower (obv at low speeds the thinner radiator performed better, and during burnouts the clutch fan would have been pulling more air but overall there wasnt a great deal of difference).

Came very very close to building the exact same thing in my old hr31 gts 4door a few years back - even had the vh45 organised. Be interesting to see how yours turns out - there was a guy over here with a single turbo vh45 in a z31 many years ago, factory auto making around 400rwhp, I wanted to make considerably more but we werent sure how the motor would cope.

I will be interested to hear what sort of injector duty cycle you end up with using 800cc injectors and afr's around 11.0. More important question imo is how much timing do you give the motor, afr's are only part of the picture. You will no doubt get some suggestions here but the people you want to hear from, experienced tuners, tend to keep this sort of info to themselves.

You want to run two vac lines of the intercooler pipe just after the turbo, one to the gate, the other to the boost controller then the gate. Some weld on's will do the job.

Your doing a good job of coming across as a complete spanner there mate, keep it up - before long no one will bother posting results.

I've only done maybe 3-400km's on it so not really a good reference! Ash, its not the surrounding heat (though it might have been your problem). The ones I was told about were a result of the hot air from the comp cover wearing through the elbow...

Kermit is very good with stainless, highly recommended. He put together my 3.5" system. But i wouldnt be expecting change from 2.5k+ if you want a quality job. 3.5" stainless is more than double the price of 3" as its not a stocked size. Stainless cooler piping will be cheaper than ally, and there are also far more people out there who can do a good job of welding stainless... I've only found two people I'd recommend for ally and neither come cheap. If your tight on cash the other option is do the easy stuff yourself (cooler piping, intake pipe etc) and get the exh done professionally.

Try to avoid a 90deg bend straight off the compressor cover, these are prone to failing which is why the track guys weld a bend on. Mine is silicone and no problems but then again its not a track car!