DCIEVE

This isnt an area id be taking chances on over a few hundred $, esp if your going to be tuning with it. The innovative gear is proven many times over.

Good read, compares the innovate wideband with aem and plx etc. http://tunertools.com/articles/FordMuscle.pdf

innovative

I'd recommend twin feed and return from the centre to the reg. http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb146/h...pe/fuelsys2.jpg

thermal conductivity for stainless is much lower than your typical mild steel I would spend the extra and go full race in a heartbeat, currently have 6boost and looking to make the change if that gives you any idea.

Adam at JEM did an excellent job on mine back when it ran a pfc

pardon?

really depends if you want to keep it legal.. I have mine set-up such that both cam breathers run to a large baffled tank with the baffle there to force the blowby into the tank rather than going straight to the oulet (this depends on the shape of the tank). I then pipe the blowby from the can to the rear of the car. The legal version of this set-up would see the breather from the catch can running to the inlet pipe on the turbo/s. There are plenty of other ways of dealing with pcv but for a streetcar this seems to be the easiest. edit; I definantly would recommend a catch can, take a look at the inside of a stock gtr intercooler to see why!

second hose will be running to the rear of the car to keep things smelling nice in the cabin.. the only other place you could connect it is the inlet pipe on the turbo

part one of the question should be 'what is a wastegate'....

Havent had any luck with local shops so hoping someone around here has an answer... I'm chasing the following; 22mm ID rubber hose 22mm ID plugs The only metric hose I've been able to find is hyd line which is far too stiff to run around the engine bay. Im just looking for flexible rubber hose and plugs for the unused outlets on the cam covers. Must be plain old black please. I know it must exist somewhere but so far no luck.... Cheers, Nick ps before you ask, yes I've tried the nearest imperial hose sizes

Hey mate, you need to have the 'weld-on' fittings welded on, they are only a few bucks a throw. From there you just screw on your fittings. If you go hose end like in ad4ms picture then its fairly simple, you can just hose clamp the lines to your catch can. If you want to use braid then you'l need matching fittings welded to the catch can. So your up for the two weld-ons, the two 90deg -10 fittings (hose end or braid) and the respective lines etc. By far the easist (note, not the cheapest!) way to do it, is take your covers down to GoGear, if you buy the fittings there they will organise the welding which saves you driving around trying to find a decent ally welder (there arent many). Other option is buy through couplers who are much cheaper but you will then need to sort out the welding yourself. Cheaper again is to use earls fittings, and again you;l need to organise having the weld-ons. Hope you havent painted your covers yet

I'm not saying the earls arent good quality fittings, the speedflow just have a much nicer 'feel' to them. But you do pay for the difference.

I would only use speedflow as in ad4m's picture. Put an earls and speedflow fitting side by side and you'l know why. edit here you go earls speedflow

f*k of course if you just chuck a pod behind the bumper with no shielding its going to get wet... shield it, run a guard liner and you wont have any problems.

I cant remember the last time I hit standing water deep enough to submerge my pod (would have to be over a foot deep to ever touch the filter). That being said I have a splash guard on the rear (same as used on the back of a std side mount intercool) and a baflle in front of the filter so it cant be directly hit by water coming though the opening in the bumper or splashed by puddles etc. If your planning on driving through creeks/shallow rivers maybe buy a snorkel

I cant see why you would put the pod in the engine bay if your worried about inlet temps... stick it down in the bumper where it can suck on mostly ambient temp air and be done with it.

which might be expected when you compare a turbo happy in the 450+rwkw range with a pair that work in the 360rwkw range plenty of talk of inertia but no numbers, if someone provides compressor and exh wheel diameters and weights we can very roughly (very) approximate the relative moments of inertia and get a better idea of the actual difference..

Well I have 35r and a mate has 2530's, I can promise you my 35r (.82) comes on earlier and harder. It also went 400rwkw with afr's at 10.9 running 24psi. These last few posts have missed what cerbera and nismoid were saying about all the mega bucks parts around the 2530's on the mines car which make the turbo's look so good. Not saying there a bad thing but dont expect the same performance from your stock 26 with 2530's on the side as the mines guys are extracting...

nice rims ( i just bought a set the other week with very similar specs) not sure if they come in both 2 and 3 piece but mine deff 3

gtr run in awd and rwd = sfa difference dude

be interesting to see your results, a mate fitted the 650 to his 1j and the claims of 30% better spool than an equivalent garrett didnt pan out, she is extremely laggy (5000rpm?) but that being said the car makes alot more power than it did with a .63 reared gt35 on the same boost (440 to 480rwhp) whatever you do dont damage it, waiting time on replacement parts for the turbo is in the 2-3month range

little confused here, the gt35 will go 400rwkw... t04z is 450rwkw+ territory way I see it is the 2530's sit somewhere in between the gt35 and t04z, either way its going to make stomping power and be making boost (ie making power) somewhere between 4300 and 5000 depending on your setup

we didnt plot against rpm due to severe wheelspin on the dyno and a slipping clutch....

cheers lithium, I have had one go within a whisker of 400rwkw (530rwhp) on a dd dyno running 24psi with what I would call a very conservative tune (injectors 100% duty cycle and no means to lower boost). Id like to think with a more aggressive tune and more boost it would go much higher.... but I cant say I've seen anyone else really push the 3582