DCIEVE

Glad I could help... motivation is tough to maintain, especially after a few years in the build. So I've been keeping pretty busy on this thing, mainly acting like a TA to lumpy (my wiring guy) who casually suggests a couple things I should do/change/improve (in addition to plugging away at the body loom) each time he comes by. Given his full time job is supporting a number of local race cars I try to listen as much as possible... but it does mean the job keeps growing. Anyway I'll bring this up to date over a couple of posts in the next few days. After much procrastination I settled on an air oil separator and catch can configuration, started out like this And after a day with Brad Stacy I had these Made some new switch panels and had some stickers made Relay bases and breakers mounted up. This will sit behind the glovebox with the ecu/cdi on a separate panel in the foot area with the innovate gear hidden underneath. Coming along! Busbar has been added here. Bit of a glimpse into the level of detail lumpy is going to. The connection between the chassis and door. External isolator button, we're building a cartek style isolator system minus the massive price tag. And Martin from Unzipped Composites has been making me number of bit's and pieces over the past couple of weeks. Have to say great service and a top bloke to boot.

Thanks guys! Thanks mate. The rear fitting is 3/4" BSPT (same as the turbo drain) whereas the front had to be tapped 1/2" BSPP (can't recall if I used a parallel or tapered thread fitting though). Credit for this info to r33_racer, a very knowledgeable fellow! I'll have to update this thread soon..

I have one, looks the goods but the car isn't running just yet.

Might as well leave them there and save yourself 3-400 in bulkheads and adapters.

You only really need to drain it to the sump if you're going to be doing some circuit work. In that case two -12 breathers of the cam covers to the top of the can and either one -8 or bigger drain at the bottom of the can to the top of the sump. If you want to let the crankcase vent from the sump you can add a second line from the top of the sump to the top of the can. Even if you don't plan to do track work I'd be welding all of the extra fittings to the catch can and sump while it's apart so if the day does come where you need them it's an easy job Also keep in mind if the car will be doing a lot of street k's the drain is going to mean more frequent oil changes due to all the condensation on short trips.

It's hard to find a dry sumped car without lines in the cabin.

No worries Scotty, you've obviously thought it through so this is mainly for the OP's benefit. If you return the rails to the surge you have a near enough to full surge after a corner assuming it was full beforehand (without arguing semantics about partial throttle). And at wot with 500odd kW you're using well under 8L/min, and never at wot for more than 30sec without braking = 4L. Not to mention on the gas typically means a flooded pickup at the rear of a drag cell. Anyway just just some numbers I pulled from memory, it's easy enough to work out your actual fuel demand and some likely scenarios in a great deal more detail (circuit, 1000m drags and in car vids with telemetry etc) to design the surge tank around, in my case I ended up with 4L. Another point worth mentioning is surge tanks are typically tall relative to diameter/width (high aspect) so they can run down without the main pumps drawing air.

Interesting arrangement, your min fuel load is going to be 20 litres then (empty main tank, full 'surge'). You will also need a large return line to the main tank from the poly tank to minimise pressure or it will balloon when it gets warm. I'm curious why you didn't use a conventional surge tank?

The expensive ones have bladders, internal baffles, internal pick-ups etc whereas the cheap ones are just an empty tank. If you run a surge as well you can get away with the empty tank (and some get away with a basic cell and no surge though I wouldn't risk it) - the only benefit of the expensive ones in that case is the safety of a bladder. The empty cells are typically filled with foam, just make sure it's e85 safe. Keep in mind plastic cells will deform if you don't use a functioning breather and support them properly whereas ally tanks are a little heavier. They all have their place, just weigh up the pros and cons and decide which best suits your particular application keeping in mind legality for the street or your racing class.

That's really impressive work, hats of to you.

Out of interest did you consider using a concentric slave and doing away with the fork etc?

Looking good!

I think that's the sensor, will keep that in mind. As for when it will be running, I've given up trying to guess. It's all up to my wiring guy....

The instructions recommend between 1 and 2mm (roughly 0.04-0.08"), they supply a few extra washers to adjust the distance. There isn't any means to adjust the cam trigger that I can see but we did measure it to make sure. Are you guys using the same hall effect sensor?

I bought a few sets that I didn't end up using - black finish. You can buy direct from protex online.

Cheers! Here's a pic minus bumper.

Thanks mate Wiring guy has been making pretty good progress but unfortunately tore a ligament in his foot last week. The car is quite literally ready to drive other than some wiring and catch cans which I'll do once running to avoid another trip on the tow truck. What he has done so far looks pretty good though. Electrical battery isolator replacing the mechanical switch Deutsch connectors everywhere Unfortunately didn't get a photo of the engine loom before it went in but it's rather nice!

LOL so many experts.

Hmm it is a gerotor so I might have to look into a scavenge filter. Thanks for the tip Thanks mate. It's an s300sx 88-75, the EFR's were having some issues back when I made the purchase. Definitely nice to clear some space in the house/garage!! Long time without updates but the car is basically complete and has been for a few months while I wait for a wiring loom. Anyway a few images to bring this up to date. Reassembling the jigsaw puzzle... definitely lose some of the simplicity you gain going high mount single when adding dual wastegates. View from the underside With almost everything installed minus some fluids it went into http://www.racingdynamics.com.au/ to be aligned and corner weighted. Ended up being 1230kg dry. Being able to adjust camber is a rather nice addition! Tom also made a cover for the accusump and remounted the battery. Due to an oversight on my behalf the ross harmonic balancer came with a htd drive whereas I already had gilmer drive on the oil pump. It was also set-up previously to run at 70% engine speed whereas I'm under the impression 50% is more typical. This was sorted by Evan at Garage7 with a new 38 tooth drive pulley. I stumbled on these quik-latch fasteners after trying out a couple of other options for securing the front bumper. A really elegant/simple alternative to dzus.

My os twin slipped at 580 hub hp. Was flaring hard on its first pass at the plex.

Does this guy still have a v8 supercar?

Is there a workshop phone number?

Looking like more bullshit.

Likewise.

Explain to me the difference Brad???