DCIEVE

Im interested where you think the limits of the 3582 .82 are, and similarly for the 1.06 version? Is the larger housing interchangeable with the .82 (and it is single scroll or twin). Currently using a single scroll .82 on the 3582 and interested to see how far it can take me before having to upgrade Very interesting discussion -cheers

wasnt aware u could get the dz101s in a 265. did u do the dunlop z1s? (not dz101)

can u get dunlop dirreza z1s?? if not dz101 or re01r in 215/45/17 and 255 40 17 also what do u have in the way of 295s or 315s for 17's

hang on, so he needs a better exh shop if they cant guarentee a 3.5" will pass a noise test but you had to come on here looking for ways of getting yours quieter? hints to me maybe you also need to find a better exh shop or stop telling people its so easy

id be going 1000cc injectors for some head room

Flaring the standard lines is a pain in the arse, well a single flare is ok but a proper double flare that wont leak isnt something I was able to do with a flaring tool... flaring ally line is a different story being so much softer.

Not sure what you've done with your fuel setup in that pic though?? Looks like you've gone single feed and twin return.... I'd be splitting the feed to both ends of the rail and returning to the reg in the middle like felixy has shown in his pics.

fwd as in east west motors....

Have recently completed my surge tank setup with teflon braid, 044 and low pressure (pump suction side) filter. No smell, easy to set-up but was very far from economical. Prob over 500 in fittings, plus tank, pump and the filter was 150odd. Im about to re do it with a second 044 now im running out of fuel and will be doing it all with hard lines, not only for cost but imo it looks much neater and I will be taking the opportunity to replace the old fuel lines under the car with new ally hard line also (the line itself is dirt cheap).

id be steering clear of the orange stuff, it eventually go's hard and crumbles - also know of guys who have had it ignite. use the silver stuff around the manifold and if your really worried use teflon lined braid and as long as its roughly 1" from the manifold it should be fine

I would certainly be using a muffler and making sure it is straight through and at least maintains the exh id... that is assuming you dont mind the noise. If you do want to quieten it down, as an example a mate with a 4" has two rather large straight through magnaflow race series mufflers and that is imo very quiet at light throttle/cruise, as opposed to my 3.5" with a single 4" muffler which is deafening no matter what your doing. btw that drag muffler is a merge collector design for aspirated drag motors (ie straight of headers)

hey mate, never heard of the engine monitor (maybe im out of touch ) but sounds like what ive been looking for.... any more details besides these features? ie is in intended to be a digital type gauge similar to the slimline stack (edit: this one http://www.stackltd.com/images/snapshot_st8900.png) which doesnt seem to be available anymore? ideas on cost etc? have to say, if it could read my wideband 02 signal AND read real time to laptop with logging that would be incredibly useful (would be pushing my luck to log egtx6 to the same place i spose...

hey mate, give kermit (0422549050) a shout - he can look after flanging the wastegate pipe for you and will come to you

doing that just loops crankcase pressure...... you need some sort of breather either to turbo inlet, pcv+turbo inlet or to atmosphere

going to need more like 2 fuel pumps, custom cradle in tank or surge tank setup = roughly 1k if you do it yourself or 2k plus at a shop front end fuel lines will be roughly 500 plus fuel reg, alot of your prices obv dont include delivery etc etc

thats a very nice looking motor, but the budget would head towards 40k++ I suggest to get it into a chassis that will be able to be driven reliably.....

or save yourself a large sum of cash and do it with the original crank, buy a locally developed garret t04z based turbo kit (ie 3400 instead of 6k) with the money you save id also go 1000cc injectors, get 6x egt's in there (you want reliability-also make the tuners life a bit easier), twin 044's

the koyo I have is excellent quality, I tried to buy PWR but ended up frustrated trying to get one made to suit the thermo's i was using etc - they need to work on there dealer network.

os giken gears, the drive on the poncams was significantly larger than the standard cams

physical difference you can measure is the cam gear drive on the poncams was larger than standard (we had to drill the cam gears out)

Yep using a 3582 as it came out of the box. Should add the curve is a little misleading as the car would rev quickly to 6500 then hold there for a few seconds while the rollers caught up (with chunks of rubber spraying the wall), before revving out the last 1500rpm.

not looking very hard then gt35 with 0.82 and everything you can think off to make it work edit: sorry should add thats running 1.6bar, and massive wheel spin on the dyno to the point the tyres starting delaminating (http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb146/h...coupe/dyno3.jpg) so we had to stop (injectors at 100% duty cycle also). Tyres and lack of fuel meant we only moved the cams once before calling it quits.

remember when i got my new poncams I was suprised not to find any identifying marks at all, not that i looked too closely.

looks pretty good, similar setup to me except im running a bit more boost and a larger exh... will make alot more power once you wind it up!

I'm also chasing a 14mm rail, twin feed, centre return for 26 cheers