DCIEVE

I would be very careful before buying one of the merge collector type manifolds, boost control on the single scroll turbo manifolds just isnt there... I would honestly go a jap name brand, sacrifice a few hp and have a choice in how much boost you run.

hr31 rb26 gt3540 [email protected] bulk dyno wheelspin injectors maxed wired/tuned by lumpy (sm4 +500r cdi)

few changes since but this is my effort

yes good point if you are worried about exceeding the recommended temps for the o2 sensor check this one out http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/xcart/p...at=0&page=1 I dount many will have a problem though, the lc-1 will display an error message when the temps are exceeded (700degC gas temp or 500degC material temp). Mine is less than 12" from the turbo and I am yet to see an error message.. cylinder egt's all peak at 900degC roughly 1inch from the head if thats any guide (530rwhp and 10.8afr's). Have to say the innovative is a good looking gauge as well, and easy to mount being less than 15mm thick. http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/xcart/p....php?imageid=89

stock o2 and aftermarket o2 sensors are the same part... I cant see why you would have to move it.

We tuned mine using the innovative gear and it matched the dyno afr.... guage is good for the worriers, every opportunity i get on wot i have a quick glance to make sure afr's are holding steady. The egt gear is even more valuable imo, just needs to be logged and looked at later (no point looking at one channel of data, egt is only useful for trimming individual cylinders by comparing all 6 at once)- but an excellent tool for the tuner to use when on the dyno and also for the owner to check what the tuner has done and also keep an eye on things under varying conditions and over time. I hate all things electrical yet still installed and wired up the innovate o2 sensor, gauge, egt's etc very easily, worked first go no problems at all. And havent had a problem since. Mind you I located the LC-1 in the cabin. As for sensor location, I was advised to put it halfway around the first bend in the exhaust.

how do you measure egt? we found middle cylinders run significantly hotter than front and rear. real time data logging with 6xegt's.

i think the 30r will get you there no problems ash, i dont think its fair to compare 25 and 26 setups. i believe my results on a 35r at the very least matches a mates 26 with 2530's for response, not to mention the single setup is a million times easier to work on

8's should be an ok heatrange for what your making but if they are too far gone to self clean throw in a fresh set of hotter plugs and see how they go using coppers will make experimenting with heatrange a much cheaper exercise, always better to start too cold than too hot.

this is the manifold in question the turbo/manifold/gate is sold as a package. you would expect after so many people having the exact same problem they would change the design, or stop selling the package untill the problems are sorted out my advice has been to modify the wastegate pipe off the manifold, fairly expensive exercise when everything has been fabricated to suit already

hey mate, just to clarify for you the 3540 and 3582 are the same thing. Steer clear of the xr6 turbo, boost control is a nightmare with them i found

Definately recommend tomei studs (per 700hpgtrs post) even for the straight fit cams, makes the install much easier with no risk of stripping the thread in the head when trying to pull the cam down. If the install is being done by a shop with plenty of experience I expect you can do without (but it is cheap insurance).

I'm using the xd-16 kit with no complaints, logging to the laptop in logworks as well as watching live on the guage, only complaint is I dont think you are able to log ecu parameters (tps, rpm, temps etc) in the logworks program or vice versa- Logging in two seperate programs is a bit of a pain in the arse. Innovative do have modules to take rpm etc but it just gets very messy with three seperate innovative boxes under the dash (plus a fourth for rpm etc) as well as an ecu and cdi unit (Note two of these are tc-4 for egt). A mate has road tuned using the lm-1 with good results also. checkout http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/resourc...WB_Shootout.pdf

both cars have cleaned and flow tested injectors, I asked they record the results when mine were done but the shop claimed there was no real measurable difference so didnt bother. but i think its unlikely for us both to have a lower flowing injector in 4 (and in that case it should also stay the hottest... off load and on?) edit- both have twin feed rails with centre return if that has an effect

he is yes, my results are also on std plenum and look almost identical

afr for individual cylinder is more $$ than i can justify, hopefully one of the bigger outfits/race teams have seen it worth looking into though all the plots show 5&6 running hot on on cruise and light throttle, then when there is load (boost) it turns around...

so has anyone actually measured exhaust temps (or even better individual cyl afr's)?? 6 doesnt seem to be the worst from what we've been able to see

in the short time ive been logging egt's, 4 seems to run hottest with no other correction... any one else had similar experiences? A friend with a similar egt setup also saw 4 running hottest and needed a fair amount of fuel to compensate on the dyno (mine hasnt seen the dyno yet)

depends where you live i suppose, end of day its not hard to provide good service either

do you know what piston/bore clearance the machinist worked too... will still have good leakdown and compression but will burn a bit of oil not that it helps you with the oil in the coolant problem

sounds like he's not in oz judging by the comment 'i have a sump waiting in australia' had similar problems buying various items from shops in oz, in almost all cases it works out easier making it yourself or buying from japan or the us best of luck

just remember to bolt the sump up to an old block before welding or you'l end up with a taco...

GeeTR, can double flare but to be honest its a pain in the arse, just did mine and trying to fit the flaring tool on the line while hanging under the car is a pain, not to mention the std lines have a coating so the flaring tool slips of far too easily. If I did it again I would rip the line out and replace it with ally line bent to replicate the original line (still plan to do this anyway). greeces13, brads stagea runs a 1/2" feed line to the engine and a 3/8 return, feed splits into twin -6, return from rail to reg is -6 also. Im not a fan of the sard reg though, I would go aeromotive or magnafuel to your budget.

be far easier to just get a1000 instead of the a1000 -6 in any case you need to buy the fittings you screw into the reg so you can do whatever you want

If I was you I would replicate the standard feed and return lines in ally tube (this is the only cheap part), solder -8 fittings either end, split the feed to twin -6 for a twin feed rail and return from the middle of the rail to a good reg ie aeromotive and back through the -8 line. http://www.aeromotiveinc.com/products.php?...b=1∏=11 I cant see reusing the stock lines as twin feeds as being economical, the lines willneed to be removed from the car anyway to silver solder the fittings either end (not to mention four off instead of two), would be much easier to just copy in larger id ally and halve the no. of fittings. btw do it in teflon braid... and yes the jap rails come with -6 fittings, just replace the centre return with -8