DCIEVE

hey shaun, its all polished, doesnt seem too bad to keep up so far

hey mate, sounds like you best bet will be to pull out the std lines (assuming the plastic ones will hold there shape) take em to your local performance shop and get replica's made in ali fuel line. the ali stuff is extremely cheap, and you can either flare or solder the ends for screw on fittings

def no smell in mine since i got rid of rubber braid for teflon, used to stink the entire cabin out after sittting in the garage for a week but not even a hint of it now to use rubber line you just need the hose tail fittings for the surge tank

another built 26 with a 35r, yet to be tuned

waiting for funds to clear so untill then - please consider this item sold cheers

pics as requested

its a throttle body dude - not an air flow meter

Item: q45 tb Condition: in good working condition Price: $250 To Fit: (What car) any Location: perth Contact: [email protected] Comments: also comes with tps

last quote i had for em in 18's was 4200 with plain silver centre, black centre not available when i was looking also and a 5month wait

whooparse wednesday.....

hijacking with more grass action!

was cutting it up everywhere all weekend but the grass action is still the most entertaining vid! the stag and soarers antics on the grass were by far the highlights of the sunday action appealing, remind me not to post a burnout vid cause any 200hp p-plater shitter can do that as well!

can we send you a china manifold which the car has already been designed for (exh and cooler piping etc) to replicate the turbo location?

you have all the information you need to either have the sump made or do it yourself, its really not that hard

Thats one hard to understand post! If the high energy sits lower than the std 26 sump (I assume seeing as your talking about extending the oil pickup) then it will likely also protrude lower than the engine x-member. We got my sump to about 8litres without going any lower than stock, sits perfectly level with the x-member.

26 is drilled for both sumps which are interchangable except for the rb26 oil pickup which sits further out than on 25's meaning the 25sump will not fit unless you bash it out a good 10-15mm to clear. To use the 26 sump you will need to lop of the diff casing and plug up the driveshaft holes, make sure you trial fit it to the motor and the motor into the car before final fittment as it sits very close to the steering rack...(you need to take a fair amount of material off on the drivers side).

hmm looks like prime as best you can and just start it up... pm'd re ecu

I have a very similar setup only the oil filter is down low.... tried to prime the cooler but could only get a bit under 500ml in there with everything connected (feeding using funnel into dash10 braid not fun). I'm thinking crank it for a few seconds (no fuel) till I get oil pressure then start it normally. Im fairly sure the oil filter being so low self primes on mine though, well it filled with oil when I filled the sump anyway. Yet to start it though, waiting on ecu (also an sm4). btw your engine looks very similar to mine

boost pressure and any other details?

well hopefully mine will be tuned with a 3540 .82 by the end of next week so we should have a few to compare against (3.5" exh)

I found the on top of motor catch can (powerplay, jjr etc) fouled up the engine oil very quickly, so unless your doing track work and running the sump dry due to blow by i'd steer clear of it.

I have a polished greddy intake pipe im selling, pm if your interested http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb146/h...upe/compafm.jpg

kyle, very interesting to see the cressy runs twin wastegates? What is the cost to make this change to an existing 6boost manifold (and I guess for the guys buying new what is the cost to option up on a new one).

regardless of rubber (225 sava's, 245nankangs) never had traction problems with 300rwkw (2nd gear on) and thats with huge amounts of dynamic camber

http://www.stackltd.com/images/slimlinedisplay.png