DCIEVE

damnit, been wanting to take a run to bathurst but will be away that weekend

4x R32 GTS-t wheels and legal (barely) tyres. Not sure what they're worth so make a reasonable offer and theyre yours. pm or 0409 711 428

Damaged synchro's in my hr31 rb20 box, I doubt the power was a factor.. it just didnt like being rushed through the gears. 2nd went then 3rd before I bit the bullet and installed a r34 25box. The rb20box behind the 26 (yes its definantly a 20box..) has survived a few years with approaching 400rwhp.. and im yet to make it crunch, it has better shift quality than the r34 box in the rb20 powered r31. Treating it like glass though!

I have both 8cm and 10cm td06 19c housings, the 8 or 10 is stamped on the housing. No matter what you do this turbo is going to be laggy on the rb20!

In the of chance anyone needs to move a car from Perth to NSW we have one free spot in a 40ft container on its return trip to Sydney. Your looking at $900, you get to drive it into the container and watch the container locked.. post the keys to NSW and the buyer or whoever watches the container opened at the other end. No middle men or tnt's to damage the car. Give me a call if your interested 0409711428

damn you williams!! now raikkonen.. least I can get some sleep now

Not passionate, just bored. I've read the thread and your comments, the word 'contradiction' comes up in my posts alot as that is what people are doing when talking about these coatings. I thought my posts were quite clear? I will leave this here, if you wish to discuss further we can take it to PM rather than draggin your thread off-topic All the best in your chase for 9's

The coating claims to work by keeping the surface of the pipework cool, ie keeping the heat within the piping. (actually the second site simply claims it is a 'thermal barrier') http://hpcoatings.com/products/heat.aspx#E http://www.performancecoatings.com/ If you acknowledge it has little effect on the amount of heat radiated from the pipe/exh housing (in contradiction to how it is 'meant' to work) then what do you think it actually does? I am not arguing that keeping heat within the exhaust improves performance, thats a given, im just trying to determine what you think it does. As i've said, if the coating does not decrease the surface temperature of the coated item then it is not effective. (The image I attached shows the surface temp is high in the coated region and at the same time clearly radiating a significant amount of heat as the subsequent uncoated region is comparatively extremely cool- it shows the thermal gradient is not affected by the coating.) Actually I have googled (and had a quick look on a few engineering databases) and havent found any technical information in support of the coatings, but alot to the contrary actually.

I know how its 'supposed' to work, the theory is extremely simple...as for thermodynamics, anyone with a basic understanding should be able to interpret the information in the image. You are contradicting yourself by saying 'its meant to keep heat in' and 'its not meant to keep the dump cool' in the same sentence. But this is way of topic. It certainly looks good!

silver gts-s you are contradicting yourself. The image shows coated and uncoated sections of the same pipe, if the heat is reaching the external surface of the pipe then the coating has already failed. Didnt mean to offend the believers, was just looking for some evidence of it working.. i've forked out over a grand on the stuff in the past as well. Back on topic, the workmanship on this car is incredible.

Thanks, thats extremely informative. After the first few pages I had assumed you were basing your comments towards the stuff on previous testing, if not then people should know how effective it really is.

I'l be interested to hear if you measure any difference in temps (engine bay or inlet) as a result of the ceramic coatings. A fellow mech eng (albeit with 10yrs more experience) used thermal imaging equipment on his coated dump and found that it did absolutely nothing.

Moderating and deleting a half dozen posts is going too far. a simply warning would have gotten things back on track. Is this a nanny forum? btw I can quote some unreasonable posts from you ash that go further than many of these that you havent 'moderated'

Assuming this was chris, seems to offend people easily without really meaning to.. wouldnt take it too seriously . This thread made a good read, but customer vs. workshops is never going to end well. Keep it going brad, jus without the workshop references!

Without increasing volume, the next area would be surface area and air flow through the core. Im assuming the manufacturers do a pretty good job with the core from the factory so any aftermarket radiator is going to give a marginal, at best, increase in surface area due to improved design etc. If its only a small improvement you after then I would concentrate on improving ducting through the radiator and importantly getting the heated air away once its passed through.. ie a bonnet vent

holy crap another one!- so many people even to this day call my gts a passage but now theres another one ahah.. Has the EXACT same interior as my gts 4door.. the gts is the povo spec of the hr31 family but in reality all that means is that it misses out on crappy gadgets like 4stacker tape player and electric seats (still gets elec mirrors, windows etc) and weighs a shitload less. My gts weighed in around 1340 from memory regarding the price, if it were 8k complied and on the road it would be a pretty good deal especially considering there arent many of them running around. But then again you could buy mine which is of its tits (for an rb20 that is) for 12.5g's... mmm r31's

What is the point in the aftermarket radiator if it doesnt hold a greater capacity of coolant (and hence weigh more). It is a heat exchanger after all, greater the thermal capacity the better. This is assuming the difference in weight of the alum and plastics are neg.

HR31 GTS 4dr pillarless Sedan Imported by me in 2002 with 98,000km’s (currently 104,000kms) Body Presents immaculate GT autospoiler is included but not fitted (inc motors, wiring etc) Rear spoiler is included, just not fitted in some pics Tint Interior Std GTS spec Autometer oil and boost pressure gauges Bride fixed back drivers seat with momo side mount type rails Std drivers seat included CD/cassette player with front speakers only Driveline 2way mech diff fitted (brand new, ive driven it once with the diff) Custom 1piece tail shaft R34 5spd box Pull type exedy 3puck sprung button clutch Light weight fly Engine/Access Std RB20DET red top ECCS TRUST TD06-19c, high flowed with garret comp wheel Std exh manifold modified to accept external gate (by Hyperdrive) XTR 55mm gate and screamer Custom 3” inlet pipe and K&N filter Ceramic coated 3” dump pipe New 3” exh, straight through, one can muffler out back Hybrid 600*300*75 cooler Custom cooler piping, all stainless and mandrel bends, put together by me and professionally tig welded Bov Link plus ECU (no afm) Gtr injectors Bosch 019 fuel pump Polished piping, manifold, cam covers Painted plastics, timing belt cover, cas, washer bottles, radiator shroud etc Most rubber/vacuum lines replaced with braided lines and fittings and silicon hose Wheels/susp Volk racing 18*8 and 18*9 3piece wheels Front tyres ok, rears are close to shagged Kyb suspension as fitted from japan R32 4pot front brakes and rotors New brake lines Other notes: Custom carbon fibre bonnet will be included if its ever finnished (genuine 100% carbon fibre) 2way mechanical LSD is brand spanking Old 16*7 and 16*8 Enkei’s included with two almost new tyres, two slightly worn and two that are low Fly wheel, clutch and tail shaft all brand new and <1000kms old Turbo freshly rebuilt <2000km’s old 300rwhp @ ~18psi on Hyperdrive dyno, tuned by glenn. Multiple magazine features: -HPI -Banzai in the UK Genuine reasons for sale. Inspection can be arranged if your serious, im interstate so it takes some effort. Contact by email/mobile or post here [email protected] 0409 711 428 12.5k with the 16" Enkei's, add 1500 for the 18" Volks Plates not included pics: http://www.image-upload.net/files/217/new3.jpg http://www.image-upload.net/files/217/new2.jpg http://www.image-upload.net/files/217/new1.jpg

cerbera.. where do you plan to lose 1sec from your previous best time?

From the original post...looking for differences in STRENGTH

He knows they run the different clutch types, pull type from the later versions being better but more expensive. Any difference in strength though?

Why any tip at all, dumper at the diff is the way to go imo. Just a pain to fill in the bumper cutout

Nissan will have them You have the right idea for removing them, just two nuts on the stud. Be gentle or have the easy outs ready

No, I've had the plugs out three times... always black (fouled). Rear of the car is covered in fuel as well. Have tried a few different types of plugs, different coils... Need to have a workshop take a look at the coil loom I think. Tune is very conservative to look after the old motor, has plenty more in it but dont want to push it untill there is a replacement ready to go. Jase, I sold mine for a bit more than that Be very interested to see what it makes with the std back on! Where is the crack?

If any part of the plug dropped into the cylinder then that will cause a small knock, know a person who thought he had a screwed bottom end, pulled it apart and it was just a small bit of hose clamp someone had carelessly cut and dropped in the carby... Fingers crossed! After a few days at 300hp mine developed a missfire which has now progressed to a stage where the car wont idle..