DCIEVE

have a td06-19c internal gate turbs, has been flowed with garret comp wheel (the std comp wheel was shagged) even so the std wheel is very ugly in its design, and tiny too. Havent actually ran this setup yet but getting close (rb20)

any 25boxes?

ball bearing so should have a restrictor. cant member what the flow rate is meant to be for bb turbo's but best to measure it prior to running

theyre fine once you stick in an safc or aftermarket ecu to fix the tuning

is there anyway of checking the condition of the 25 box prior to purchase? i got some quotes for rebuilding the 20 box stronger for about 1400, using gears out of some nissan van or something. they couldnt guarentee it would last with decent power (300+rwhp) so i didnt bother

well the 33 turbo makes 190rwkw at 14psi, and another person has just made 200rwkw with the 2530 at 17psi...i'd go for something larger than the 2530 the gains dont seem to be all that good. having had 190rwkw it gets boring rather quickly

have seen one a brand spanking 911 turbo (awd etc) at a local workshop, they easily got 400+hp out of the thing just fiddling with the ecu. these guys build some serious cars but reckon the porsche was like nothing else they'd punted on the street. still for the price of a nice house you'd want it to go pretty hard:)

why drop in an rb25 when the two have similar potential on the std bottom end (the 20 a safe 300rwhp, the 25 a safe 350rwhp) doing similar mods. Just end up spending all that cash for a motor that has limited advantages over that which you started with. If it dies, rather than rebuilding the 20 grab a stuffed 25 to rebuild instead, which would be a much better proposition with forgies. If you know from the start your going to want over 400hp dont bother with either and start saving for the 26 straight away

MT et's im assuming a radial street slick? need to choose some tyres soon..

did you get a chance to run at drag combat??

i dont feel so bad now, having read this thread.... still 15k and not running is a bit scary

stock cars that will do 12's, evo (any), sti (pre bug eye jap spec), gtir, supra?? gtr is awesome but not the only one.

police can trace the phone, its just not in there interests to do so...to expensive apparently

burning oil, blow by or shagged turbs

In perth, will cod elsewhere at buyers expense contact by PM or email greeny@iinet.net.au Two RB20 afm's $140ea 5mm wheel spacers (pair) $50 stock rb20 i/c, crossover pipe, and all piping $50 old magnaflow 3" straight thru, stainless but a bit rough $30 stock rubber intake pipe, AFM to turbo $40 cheers Nick

havent seen anyone get that much out of one

i made 190rwkw on stock fuel system and a t3/rb20 based highflow. have a td06-19c now, have a dyno from old owner and 1bar doesnt arrive untill almost 5000rpm.... but it was completely shagged when i got it so that could be the reason for the lag. has a much larger garret comp wheel in it now so will be interesting what it makes when it gets on the dyno in a few weeks. other mods now include ecu, 019 pump, gtr injectors, fmic etc, but std inlet and exh manifolds. this is the redtop so hopefully ill be able to get in the region of 230-250rwkw's running well under 1.4bar may have to throw in some stronger bosch coils as well with the std ones not handling the 190rwkw's too well what size cooler piping are people using at these power levels?

250rwkw is achievable but the 1.2 bar needed on a turbo big enought to do it wont arrive till 4500rpm+

there is some really high temp sealant you can use, rather hard to find tho just use a gasket

been pulled over a number of times and having the plate on the side has never been a problem, thats with the bumper chopped for the cooler too

just set up your bov fairly tight so it only opens when your backing off over say 8psi, then you get the flutter when your taking it easy and the benefits of the bov when hard at it. to change the sound just back of the throttle at different speeds, too easy

yeah the guys at hyperdrive are sorting out my 'lines wiring atm, certainly know nissans as does SST

Remove turbo, unbolt manifold, chuck a couple nuts on the stud and take it out. but be prepared for broken studs which makes the job an absolute pain in the arse. especially if you break an easy out off in a stud and have to tig on top of it to get the bloody stud out. you'll need the gasket and new studs only, do the mani/turbo gasket while your at it to be safe. is an easy job but can take some time

yeah i had this problem with the std ecu, impossible to drive it over 2000rpm just wont rev but boosts and blows clouds of black fuel out the back. seems like the ecu retards ignition when cold, only started doing it after getting the safc tuned tho

not as nice a box to use as the 25 box, i thought the mx box only has single synchros as well?