DCIEVE

mine seem to tick (the injectors), sr's tick very loudly. im hoping that its fairly normal??

nah dude, im in WA, but thats where i got the idea from tho

hey summoner, i have R31 GTS skyline RB20DET, and i cant get insurance at all. not even third party the pack of arse raping thieves. when i turn twenty i can get comprehensive from ONE company for some ridiculous amount and i havent had any crashes, dd etc. but even then no third party which makes no sense at all. they reckon if i crash on third party its too hard to get parts for my car??? but its third party i have to pay for my car and they just cover the poor bastard i hit. makes no sense. hehe and the way ive heard you drive (ie. hard) the RB20 g/box will last about two weeks

i bought my car with an atmo venting bov, im getting new ic plumbing made up and want to ditch the bov or plumb it back to just after the afm, any recomendations here??

jms have the supra front mount coolers for a couple hundred, the r34 coolers above look to be better quality and dont require plumbing worth double the cost of the supra cooler

what sort of boost are you running? i was under the impression that by running the turbo at the max boost it can handle you are considerably out of its efficiency range and hence the turbo is heating the air much more than typical, the use of a sensibly sized front mount with similar length & dia. plumbing to the std unit (ie no more lag) will bring the charge air down to a reasonable temperture preventing detonation and other nasties. or in order to get the same power you can hiflow the turbo or get a bigger one, hence you dont need a cooler with as great heat transfer properties but you have to put up with the extra lag of a bigger than stock turbo 2c

i picked up my cooler brand new for 750, its 600*300*75. and its not that hard to find someone to fit with quality stainless 2.5" plumbing and immaculate welds for around 500. i'll put up pics when its all done but i cant see how people can spend 2-3k on a cooler kit, esp when places like speedworks sell brand new jap kits for under 2k

whoa whats goin on here. car enthusiasts should be getting together to fight the government (revenue rasing speed camera's) and other shitty organisations such as insurance companies (wont insure my import R31, even for 3rd party...pricks) rather than bitching about how holden/nissan/toyota drivers are all arseholes or whatever. shit im sure we're all guilty of being that arsehole with a bad atititude in a holden or skyline on a bad day at some stage. my 2c

its a 4door. Ive only driven it twice when i got it, waiting for a new air filter caus hks one was stuffed and made an oily mess in intake plumbing. all cleaned out now tho. picked up big fm last night also

keep on baiting the holden fans

steve-SST: at what boost level does the boost cut operate in the R31's, and how do i get around it?? cheers

hey hako, yeah they had one ages ago but that was sold when i went there. they brought in two more, i bought the 4dr manual and i think they still have a two door auto for sale. i think the guys there are keeping the dr30, they didnt even let me look at it.

cheers zahos, i never really paid it any attention

yeah the oil catch can was the first thing to go on. i think i'll leave it as is untill i do the front mount and rip everything apart then and clean it. it doesnt get driven all that much anyway thanx people

it should be done in a controlled temp environment caus jap motors are very tolerance sensitive

cheers for the replies. yeah it has a hks filter, and the filter element is F@cked ive ordered a new one through speedworks (half the price of other places) yeah i think a thin film of oil is typical but when the importers cleaned the engine bay theyve sprayed that shiny stuff everywhere and all over the filter. and caus its stuffed dirt and everything has got in there.

my r31 only reads around 3psi on the stock guage as well, fitting a better boost guage soon to suss it out. rev210, in saying thats normal is the factory guage out or is the car just running bugger all boost?? cheers mate

alright, picked the car up last week, and hasnt been running so great so got some electrical contact cleaner and cleaned the afm it was bloody covered in crap. problem is looked at pipe behind it leading to the turbo and its even worse, a greasy black oil sludge. ive looked inside the plumbing just before the t/b and its pretty clean but the turbs to i/c pipe is pretty oily. ive cleaned as much as i can reach and im going a front mount soon so will be replacing the plumbing. i'd like to know how 'normal' this is. will it caus me probs down the line? ive fitted an oil catch can to stop the oil getting in there but will it caus any probs driving as is till its all replaced?? cheers people also how much oil does the rb20det 5spd box take, wondering if they take much more than the listed volume like the r33's seem to

hey hako, i almost bought that car. when i was lookin at it jash said that it was good for mid 13's, i think he used it for classic rallies and the like. bloody nice car

by holding boost i meant does boost spike pm me for details

hey dude i will take it. how long did you have it in your car? did it hold boost ok?

meh, dickheads drive whatever they can afford, theyre not limited to holdens or skylines etc. ive had bad experiences with both once in the old mans rex against an r33 and another time in a mates hsv when we got abused by a tit in a vn who didnt like losing(who then proceeded to follow us). the vast majority out there are of the friendly variety. each to there own

nah not as yet, have time off soon so might just drive around a get some prices rather than over the phone

they just quoted me 340 for the dump/front pipe

cheers dude, not sure what i'll do. prob best to do it properly & save on stickers