davehoos

mate of mine in the buisness asked me today what i know about the scraping of the 15 yrs + import scheme at the end of 2004.I have done one and getting together cash for another car soon,but ive not read a definate plan other than stirers.

its a heater coil or a matrix[sp] us locals are thrifty and only want to replace the core. plan ahead and replace foam seals and perisables.

VL radiator is not an'ancient holden radiator'.It was state of the art and just doesnt work.] the vn was to be fitted with a VG30E and they fixed the cooling system for it.that why it dont work on a buick. R31 has and accient radiator[that works] and mine is fitted with a copper cored one. when the vn was released the gm warranty reps were very happy.after the new car warranty had run out on VL the VN were blocking driveways of the workshop and the towtrucks had there own unloading bay.but to talk to a rep after a few beers they tell you about the whinning VL owners that coplained about the performance lack of tourque and driveability and crook gear change.4.11/3.89 gear set fixes that.but holden owners didnt like there engines to rev.the number of excited owners tat showed off the 50 cent peice trick standing on the rocker cover but told you how much of a dog it was around a shopping center.

australian r31 are electronic speedos and there could be a crook earth,wiring,sender unit full of oil, and bad dash printed circuit.this is common problem and easy to find if you have the basic knowledge

I was on a sydney harbour river cat and dirrectly under the bridge a off shore speed boat ran into it. remember last year a ship sank in shallow water of france.loaded with BMW AUDI etc.and while waiting for salvage other ships ran into it.

fowled plug will clean up if heated.also if dropped in a stong cleaner. normall put them into a pintara or a motor bike with twin plugs.or an old very reliable car that loves crook plugs. with new cars on a car yard they get fowled so we put a old plug in to warm up the engine after a quick wipe or over night on bench the plugs are put into the hot motor with a air gap in the leads[not easy on skyline] to over load the coil so when it does spark it is at a higher temp.

flush out the old stuff with soft water,if you know whats in there and its ok just drain and refill.I flush with garden hose[non treated tank water] and run for a day or so before flushing again this is mostly as i checking for leaks after a job. ford coolant instructions in the owners book say if you use 33% of our product flush and replace every 2 years at 50% replace if you feel like it. I would guess that most high temperature systems with good thick coolant are the same.there are tests to check f coolant is bad.

I was a mechanic at a nissan/holden dealer when they were new cars.and again in the mid 1990's.Ive owned both.i think the r31 is nice to look at but in 1986 the vl was sexy space age stuff.. the build quality on a R31 alters,the first ones are just ok by jap standards [good by local standards]the ser 3 had some major fixes but some shoddy end of run rushed out the door bits to cut costs.paint was years ahead of other local makes. the first VL were bad and the second model are nearly ok.build quality finish design and factory rust ....unless you have a special order or a berlina/calias forget about body finish.electrically VL are better than VK but that nothing to rave about.The R32 dash on the holden is ok to use but in 2004 the ultraviolet is taking its toll.shame the rest of the car is holding out.cooling system.the holden was designed for a 1900 4 cyl in sub zero conditions.the cooling system has never worked in these V chasis untill the reworks of the VP/VR.THE FIRST VN HAD NISSAN INTENDED COOLING SYSTEMS.it doesnt work on a vn as it was intended to fix the RB,VG engines. handelling the R31 is a compromise,i have an IRS model as well as the 5 link and for most australians i think the 5 link is best.other wise the R31 range is very good. VL well they tried.they had not much to start with chasis wise and had to cut the budget as well.It's lucky that most of them go it a straight line. I alway thought the VL was faster but the skyline was very good at suburb crawls.but this is just that the gearing on both cars are wrong.

south africa built R30 skylines.Like australia had 910.these had live axles.I also think that all short wheel base body[4 cyl SOHC had live rear].well I havnt noticed any difference removing air intakes.i assume the air filters not up to the job.as the car gets hot air from RH side AND MINE GOES HEEPS BETTER with water temps in the high 90's. some of the Zcars,I think 280Ztarga, are efi.never seen a 260 EFI,the turbo wasnt a spec for australia.and some usa models have b/w T5.I think there is a spec difference from state to state in OZ untill 1988,also states other than NSW,VIC AND LATTER TAS had seporate distribution networks and in 1908's have different ADRS.280C have efi.I had planned to use a L20A,L24 twin carb in my holden many years ago,so i was looking at ADR complience and needed a L24E,L28E..

some japanese and exported R31 have a small strip bolted[2 piece] under the apron.in africa it comes with a/c to add air flow.like honda prelues.

viscous suposed to work harder in a strait line on hard[good grip] surface or long gravel/ice roads.when cornering and in softer stuff[sand ice] the idea is the work like a tourque convertor and dont overload the wheel with grip. Ive see 2 types one locks harder if the diff center liquid heats up.so there is no preload as such and one wheel free spins.

I thought it was good reading. AT the end of WW2 it was the british that had the job of organising the car industries of europe and japan.VW was created by the engineer corps to give POW something to do.korea and china USSR are left hand drive and i think the first nissans were too as they were built in china.ford trucks. the british areas of asia are right hand drive. also ships dock[park] with their port/left side to the wharf. it was nepolean that got some of the europeans to swap. I know its a old joke but ireland is said to be serious about swaping as it would save millions of $ as they become part of europe.

to replace the CV boot you need press and it looks like a big job.the boot is torn from an exhaust thats fell off. The CV on My R31 passage are getting noisey on a long drive. probably get replacments from a wreck .Are R180 R30 driveshafts interchangeable with EARLY R200..I had a cone type idea that allowed you to slide a boot over without pulling the shaft apart,but cant find anyone with these at the moment. I have R30 coils and R31 struts on my R31 passage[iRS],the 5 link struts are 25 mm+ longer bush to spring seat, than the IRS.hatch and sedan are also different. R30 is my current work car.purchased for the tyres.It has more go than the bluebird and more room but it is no ser3.Got a 910 LD20T sitting in the shed,find some R30 LD28 bits and get it running.

1983 MR30 sedan.318000km. any easy way to replace a inner CV boot.

The chat with the importer went along the lines that he had to have documents that were not translated but in [original]english.with stickers on the car"in english" to state that R134A type gasses were in the car/etc. there were no requirements for the japanese to do this responceable maner. Its not legal to use r12[other types] in in post mid 1990's products.but as R12 to me is over $100 kg and uses crap mineral oils.compared to R134A $10-15 kg+$40 for synthetic pag oil.

in australia the patrol has a RD28 turbo.later models have full electronic injector pump. spanish built 260 patrols and early Y60 have non turbos. i got mine localy when you could not give it away.KSR31GFI-LC.I also got one of the first CD20.these are much better than the old LD,BUT THE HEADS ARE NOT AS RELIABLE.Im doing a 910 LD20T conversion on a R30 in a few weeks. first maxima was a bluebird and then front drive replacment U11 in usa,we got the better J30 in OZ[u12 based] .The A 32 is a dessed up front drive cefiro.

RB 24S replaced the L24,L28 .for counties like carbean that cant fix RB20E. 2 liter block and crank with 3 liter bore size.RB30S is also speced for the R31,GULF STATES. My RB20E R31 passage goes good now ive using a rb30e auto trans controler. I have a RD28 manual fitted in pintara wagon.all factor R31 diesel bits.good for towing.13.5 km/l worst tank.4200 rpm in gear on governor[5500 free rev] loaded or un loaded..

spoke to importer today,he been on the phone to those responsible and got very silly replies to questions.

company i work for service a/c.truck cars etc.we have some refridgerator trucks imported that we are fixing up to meet the local rules. the bigger problem is the replacement blend gasses and elcheepo oil that is used by importers.jap spec normally have marginal units that get little servicing and no parts are available.. the same silly things happen here in oz.a local pannel shop buy slightly damaged cars in sydney auctions .all the cars so far have have had the gas removed.so as a tech looking for faults they are not required to indicate that they have done so. gas is not disposed of here its cleaned and resold.RECLAIM AUSTRALIA.nothing ilegal about using R12.but why bother.

drain plug has the magnet.other wise most late nissan manuals are the same.

What car have you got??? little differences in the head light switches but most are the same. you can repair/make up one out of two switches if it is a hard to get item.but new switches are normally under $100. normally run extra relays for the lights so as long as on side works you can get a signal power from there.

also japanese dont work on our calender year.

PBR POTETIO BALAST RESISTER ON MY R31 its at the end of the heater control cable to set the temperature. i havnt had to repair a R33 inside [only r/r the evaporator for gas leaks.]R31 and R32 have three control motors so i would think that r33 is similar. but on most of these type the fresh recirc door is motor or vacumm.also the mode or vent controls.face feet. if recirc door dont work then you have some were to start as it not conected to the temperature settings.. If all fails the system tend to go hot.this might be ok in japanese or european winters. there is a light sencor ,air cabin temp .outside temp, water temp, and 2 a/c evaportator temp sencors.have i made your day. the resistance values are very generic i have replaced thermostat probes with elcheepos.

well said. nrma told me at the counter and over the phone that they dont insure modified cars and imports. i produced engineers certificate for my RD28 pintara and they gave me a big discount. the passage they took a day to decide and the green slip was very cheep.

the a/c-heater is fully electric. the motor you are talking about is the blend door motor. they often fail but i would look at other stuff first as is sounds like nothing else is working. in theory if you moved the door by hand the computor would want to move it back.have a look if the rest of the doors work.then go from there. the system is still very basic.