Fitzpatrick Speed Works

So last night I was on my bike and I was coming into mitchell from gunghalin along flemington road, and a guy exiting mitchell to turn onto flemington has just gone it, with speed and didnt even look. I was only doing about 30-40 as I was nearly into the corner, I swerved missed the car but went up the gutter got thrown from the bike and damaged the bike, not badly but it didnt have a busted headlight before did it??? THe guy goes up the road stops after about 100m, I think he didnt even realise but then yells out "you okay?" I say yeah and he takes off!!! Bastard If anyone sees a older guy, looks true bogan in a burgandy el-ef falcon wagon with the plates YAD 3 something give him hell. Geez I cant believe there are people like this in the world , gets me so cut, I am alright but its not the point it could have been 10 times worse really easily!!! End Rant!!!

If you are going to drive on street I wouldnt recomend a 2 speed, especially on a smaller motor with a turbo as there is no torque to get the car to moving when off stall and you will hate that around town trust me.... For that much power a c4 might be okay, keas can build you a killer jatco that will take it, personally th400 are my fav 3 speed, but you will probs have probs adapting the thing and it will cost a bit, just ring keas they will sort you out, alternatively if they are too busy try hugo's in melbourne, can build a tranny that bloke!!!

No they are too wide

The first rule about street racing is there is no such thing as street racing... Hopefully someone will pick up on the reference

That is pure gold!!! hahahaha best laugh I have had today Bump on a nice car try the commodore forums!!

GTR diff is a r200, it has 6 bolt cv's instead of 5 like silvias and gtst, its a viscous lsd!!

search is your friend be sure to remove the 30 day limit

You know what grinds my gears, people who whinge about fuel, we get it cheap check world prices my friend. Besides what you gonna do not drive hahaha not going to happen you will pay whatever they hell they want!!!! ahhahaha unfortunately america attacked the wrong place if they want to control world oil pricing, but give them a few years I am sure all of the middle east has WMD's (wink wink nudge nudge) hahaha all in good funu

I tested my dry sump set up on a rb20 recently. Luckily the engine was free cuase its no longer with us, the drive setup was incorrect and it ran out of oil pressure, haha these things happen thats why they needed to be tested. Dry sump on RB= experience!!! To do the job you not only need the backing of good machinist for parts but dry sump experts, plus an rb expert. Its all anout knowledge to get the best results. If I were you I would talk to as many people as possible that have experience with dry sumps on chevs etc, then talk to people that know about the rb series oil system, then talk to people who have actually done it and ask there opinions!!! I would only recommend it for hardcore racing cars that dont see the street, but thats personal opinion!!!

in sa i think you will be the first I dont think i have sold any to sa, and i havent heard of anyone having done it to 4wd. The issue with bonnet clearence isnt an issue with GTRS as much due to the rb26 head. The cv can be time consuming but if you did it again you could do it in half the time, its all about experience and practice. Sounds like you hookin in though good to see!!!

I have left them out in the past I have also moded the sump to take them its up to you there hasnt been any problems with leaving them off on 3 cars I have personally built.

Ive never had to grind any webbing on the sump itself. I assume you mean for the webbing to clear the cross member? IF so you dont need to it doesnt touch!!

I have done a dry sump on my rb30/26 in my gtr. Car not running yet but let me tell you (not to scare anyone off) doing a dry sump setup on a foreign motor (ie all the parts are for chevs not nissan) is farkin tuff, not easy at all. If you have the mechanical know how it will make it easier but still alot of headaches, like pulley sizing to ensure enough oil and pressure on idle etc....

twin 3040's is the only way to go for twins at around 1000!!! Much wider available turbo to, 3037 are good but look to the japs for this one most of their experience denotes that even on a 2.6 for drags 3037 is the choice of a racer who wants to get out of the hole with better low down response but sacrifices soem top end, 3040s should be in around 5000RPM on a 3 litre would be my guess and that still gives you some room to move. Plus their is a greater selection of manufactureres that make a 3040!!! hope this helps

I have adapted a turbo 400 for my car as its mainly drag. Still sorting out a few things, very difficult project, not one I would do again if I knew what I knew now, the main issues I still have it the output shaft from the chevy box making a new one that will go through the transfere case and also the nissan starter motor position is causing some headaches!!! I actually slipped up mentioning that but now I have people may as well know hahaha!! Cheers,

A question to you JUN 2.7L would you sell your car for $35K. My point still remains the cars, unless on the very rare occasion, that you buy with this much power for that much money generally wont be up to the condition of somthing like leewahs, or Jun's car, as they are worth $60k plus because they are built right!!!! I feel my r32 GTR I am building could be driven daily even with 500awkw, especially as it is auto, and I have spent over 2 years building it but as mentioned thats not what veilside wanted the car for anyway and theres no way I would let it go for 35k......

cometic now make a 2.5mm head gasket for rb30's, they are aweseom seal well and should drop compression 1 point or so so should be around a boost friendly 8.4:1 or something like that!!!

thats so weird but cool I dont know how that happened???

why is a n1 more reliable mate??? Just cause its a thicker casting doesnt make the engien more reliable!!! Put it this way I have never had any rb30 split a bore or do any damage to the block itself, and I have never heard of it that was a direct reult of soemthing else being wrong ie. it threw a rod or the tuning was wrong!!! A 2.6 litre for $12K if thats the way you would go then I think your crazy but that just me and I am on the other side of the coin to you I guess??? why is a n1 more reliable mate??? Just cause its a thicker casting doesnt make the engien more reliable!!! Put it this way I have never had any rb30 split a bore or do any damage to the block itself, and I have never heard of it that was a direct result of soemthing else being wrong ie. it threw a rod or the tuning was wrong!!! A 2.6 litre for $12K if thats the way you would go then I think your crazy but that just me and I am on the other side of the coin to you I guess???

Mate you are the one thats needs kicking!!! Don't come in here asking for advice then shut down those you don't like the responses to. Sounds like you already know what to do, so don't go showboating and do it!!! Now shall I kick myself????

I dont know who you have talked to but in all honesty you are kidding yourself if you are willing or want to drive a car with over 500hp at the wheels as a daily driver, thats nearly 700hp at the engine. People just dont understand how much stress is placed on an 2.6 litre engine making that much power not to mention the rest of the drivetrain. if you can buy a GTR doing these number repeatably and has all the other support systems and is in good condition and doesnt need a lot more work for 35k where do I sign up, I want 5!!!!!!!! Not meaning to be an ass but how many high hp GTR's have you been in???? Have you ever been is a genuine 400rwkw GTR they arent really a pleasure to drive, they are loud, rattly, have killer drivelines, not something you want to drive everyday, at least I wouldnt. The thing is there is such a huge different between a 300-340rwk gtr and a genuine 400rwkw+ GTR. IF I were you I would buy a nice stocker, do some mods yourself get it doing around 280rwkw, and you will have a nice car that is still practicle and wont cost you the earth in repairs matenance and build cost. Then you will have money to save for a house!! Cheers,

Hi all, My adapter plate allows you to bolt the rb26 sump to the rb30 block. It is CAD designed to match the rb30 block to the wider 4wd sump. However there are other mods that have to be done besides just the adapter. After that you will have to fabricate an external oil pickup due to the different pickup locations for a rwd rb series engine and a 4wd engine. You will also need to lastly modify the studs on the cv side of the sump to 2 long bolts, and also die grind or mill flat a part of the rb30 block to allow bolts instead of the studs on the diff side. This all sounds hard but i provide detailed instructions on how i did it and how you can do it, and if you are mechanical you can do alot yourself, I have done around 6 know and have sold many plates. This aside i sell the bare plates laser cut from cadium plated mild steel for $450, and if you got the rest done at a workshop it would cost no more that $4-600 in labour. So total cost is around the 1-1.2g mark, which is very competative considering RIPS will not do the job without selling you a built bottom end for $3800, and NIZPRO and AVO will not do it with out your own motor and sump sent to them and they charge $4200, theres is slightly different but I also offer different versions of tha adapter, however I am not bagging these workshops they do good work, but if you are a DIY'er then my setup is perfect for saving some money and getting involved. If you have anymore questions please dont be afraid to ask. But i don't really want to give out pics and detailed instructions just yet when it took me so many r and d hours to work it out for myself, like i said the other guys that do the conversions wont even sell the plate seperate cause they dont want to give away secrets!!! But like i said if you have questions about the process of fitment please dont hesitate. The plate i sell is straight forword and guys out there could make one themselves but it takes time to get spot on, and most people would rather buy soemthing they know has worked ad yeah I am not in this to make money so i basically sell the plates for what they cost me. Cheers, Daniel Oh and FOOLBOOST if you want to chat give me a call on 0418 327 427, not on the computer much anymore so dont get to check my pm's.

Nothing wrong with REV rods I have used them with great success, as said seem to be taking as much punishment as any other rod of a similar price ie under 2K

Gary how is that rb30 GTR engine going that MIlton sent to the UK going??? IS it up and running yet??? IT should have around this type of power

i have 9 rb30's most of them I have got for free or under $100 dollars!!! You just have to wait for them to come to you, its like when you don't have a missus all the ladies are not interested but when you do have a girlfriend a girl that you have loved for 10 years comes up and says she likes you(damn), if you appear deperate the rb30's will be hard to find let them land in your lap is my experience!!!hahaha Just do it, there arent to many circumstances where I would recommend against a rb30 and for you inteded purposes you will love the 3rd gear power burns!!!!!