Fitzpatrick Speed Works

You can run a forward facing plenum thats not a problem just a gtr one will lose you power as the rb20/25 heads dont have the same port angles as the rb26 head and the plenum doesnt suite it and from my experience, reading it done on a rb20 in zoom, and seeing it done on a 25 they both lost power, same with moving the throttle body to the front on a rb25 standard intake they always lose power especially mid range!!!

just dont machine the block down to achieve a higher cr then sacrifice your squish you will have numerous problems then!!!

What are you talking about mate its not a bloody pajero????? There is fwd section, what, do you know how GTR awd system works or what??? Go and have a look under your "dads" gtr or whatever then come back and either explain what you are talking about better or realise you dont know what you where talking about, not flaming you here but lets try and keep the thread informative and actually helpful

You will lose power! Its that simple!

put rb26 shotpeened rods with forged pistons in your 25 bottem end and you will have a really strong engine at very minimal costs!!! Thats the advice I would give you if you ever considered the rb26 trasplant. Also as far as plenums are concerned I would run a trust greedy style one that is made for the rb25 head witha 75mm throttle body, they look great if thats what you are after!!!??

Just checked something 700cc injectors are going to be stuggling at 400rwkw+, might wanna run 850's or 1000's!!

Gibson also rebuilt their engines every race meeting, oh and it was a race car running race fuel, we are talking street cars here that have limited fuel choices. Anything over 9.0-9.5:1 in a turboed street car is stupid and dangerous when running upwards of 15psi!!! Its basically common physics that come into it if you look into the heating rate of compressed air, ie boosted air, then add to that compression ratios of 10+ you are running well over 180-190psi in each cylinder, and no fuels you can use legally on the road are going to burn properly at those pressures. In long 9.0:1 will be great for your application GTR Junkie, as yu will still have a nice car off boost that will be really responsive. How are you planning to run it in your GTR you should swing me a PM, as its good to start the mods at machining stage if possible!!!

I have sold 16 plates so far with 4 cars running with the plates at the moment, so it has been done before many times!!!

I make plates to adapt the rb26 4wd sump to the rb30, little bit of work involved but with my instructions and plate easy for any confident DIY or mechanic to do!!! Great engine at a really good price good luck with the sale mate!!!!

TOP 5 OFF THE SHELF: PAUTER $around 2k landed CARILLO $2500+ ARGO $1900 REV $1500 EAGLE $1300 All the rods in this list are good rods that would suite almost any engine combination and be strong enough for anything up to 800hp, also that list is in no particular order and I havent included rods like Crower, oliver and Pankl for example as they arent ready made you have to get them custom made. TOP 5 (If moneys no object, all custom made) 1) Crower Titanium $5000+ 2) Arrow Engineering Titanium $5000+ 3) Pauter Titanium $7000+ 4) BME Aluminium ( moneys no object you can replace them every 1000ks) $3000+ 5) Cunningham Aluminiums $3000+

A crew of us will be heading up to supernats a yearly pilgrimidge we take. Great show and good racing, all put on by a good team and of coarse Ahmed. So if anyone is heading out dont be shy to come say g'day we will be there with the dark blue FC Holden with a v8, and also a dark purple vl commo with a rb20. If any of you drag regulars are going to be there let me know so I can do the same, come say g'day!! Cheers, Daniel

Well done brett good to the car finally going and doing good times straight out of the box, congrats.

Okay could be a number of models, Series 1 VL turbo block Series 2 turbo or non turbo Any series skyline block It is good as the oil return and high pressure are already there, so from that point of view it is slightly better than doing some extra work. However some people believe the earlier holden blocks are better as they are cast from better grey iron, however I believe it is a myth!!!

make sure your car is all legal is an important factor, and that you right down all the events get them signed by a partial witness to you writing down the log of events with the date, its not just your word and you making up a date. Also bring someone with you two witness the potholes when you photograph it and get statements from passengers if there where any. Get a workshop or similar to inspect the damage and provide a quote on repairs and something that indicates the damage was a direct results of the pothole would help alot. If you can do all this and show up to court with it all you have a chance as you have good documentation and the judge can see you are serious etc!!! Good luck

You will still run waste spark with the 4agze coils but only on one cylinder. Its better than running one or 2 coils for the whole system, nothing wrong with waste spark on a drag circuit or high hp application any way as you should be checking the plugs all the time!!!

What greg said is on the money whats your budget than we can recommend something for you based on that. A 900hp engine is expensive, I see to many people these days thinking a 700hp engine is the same as a 900-1000 hp engine. Dont just consider the engine parts when building a car like this think down the line like gearbox, driveshafts, diffs the list goes on. Also an engine like that will need a lot of maitnance, ie. pulling it down every few thousand kays and checking bearing and components!!! I personally dont go much on Carillos and alot of people might shoot me down but here is why. Carillo hasnt changed its design in 20 years, this says to me that they arent doing any continued R and D this is a worry cause no matter how good you make something you can always refine it, people say they got it right the first time well I am not convinced. Secondly I am not questioning their strength or quality of finish or materials they are high quality but their strength comes through the fact the are a very chunky rod and heavier than all others I have had. A six inch Carillo weighs from memory around 710grams, a standard rb30 rod which is basically the same thing is around 630...this is standard. I feel Carillos are great for strength no doubt about their durability but its due to more metal as well, whereas some of the other manufacturers are trying to go lighter through design and developement and keep the same strength as say a carillo. Company's like Pankl and crower impress me as they are constantly testing their stuff to meet higher and higher standards, and their rods look amazing, but you pay for it also!!!!

No brad you are on the money. The wheel sensors from memory go through a relay and box that I think is meant for the ABS then go back to the ecu what I did is cut the wires from there source the ETS ECU and made new ones right to the front to the wheels sensors. The error code wont show problems with the sensors as they wont work without pulse and pulse back from and to the computer if you get me its saying there is no pulse it must be the computers fault>>

WETGTR, With the autronic SMC and the CDi you run three outputs from the computer into the CDi then run coils like the 4AGZE style with two leads from each coil using three outputs from the CDI (three 4A coils equals six cylinders work of spark plugs) and you dont have to run in a waste spark mode.

Charlie I will reply to your PM here. Also sorry didnt realise there was an in joke my apoligy's Dave. Righto the ETS computer has 4 inputs that run from the the respective wheel sensors. Now the wheels sensors are magnetic pickups that run a pulse back to the computer which then calculates wheel speeds. Now for the 4wd the computer notes how fast all the wheels run in relation to each other and monitors if the back wheels run faster than the fronts, too compensate buy actuating the Attessa pump and engage the front wheels. Now, when removing the ABS which also uses these wheels speed sensors the 4wd computer doesnt have the inputs any more so its a matter of connecting them back up. All I did on my car is work out via the wiring schematics the colours of the 2 front wheel speed sensors traced them back to the ETS ecu chopped them and ran new wires right to the front, from the ETS computer, got a new plug and connected them up. I havent tried my car yet so I cant say if I had success but this is how I saw it done on Domenic's yellow autostyle car, that had the ABS removed. I hope this makes more sense this time.

great help and a useful post thanks T04GTR. NXTIME, there are two prong pulse wires that run of a magnetic pickup on each corner of the gtr. When you remove the ABS you have to disconnect this. Those wheel speed sensors also work for the Attessa. Follow the wires back to the body harnes and you will see where they diverge and go back to the ETS control computer located on the parcel shelf. Okay so work out which wires run to the wheel speed sensors from the wiring digram of the ETS that is in the workshop manual, work out the colours etc and trace thses as far forward as possible then extend the wires to reach their respective wheels speed pickups, buy two new plugs that will fit the originals and this should solve your problems!!! Does this make sense??? LEt me know if you need any more help I am sure I have the wire colours somewhere but it can be worked out! Cheers

I am with SK you run a car in within the first 200k's, and if you do that right ie varied conditions, high load low revs bit of strapping then you have done it right!!! Some people like my old man dont even believe in a run in, the work out medium load on the dyno then straight into power runs, i guess it works cause hasnt blown an engine, but I feel SK's kind of method is the best!!

after heaps of searching I have not found any australian supplier of these wheels. Looks like I will be doing my old trick of hiring a interpreture and hopefully buying direct from the company, this has worked in the past but it has also backfired with one company rejecting selling to a private person not a supplier!!!

Sure can, works a treat! ANd its smaller so your engine bay looks cleaner as a result!!

Gary with your system you must run a cooler is this correct?? On the 3 or so GTRs i intitially removed the hicas from I was simply blocking up the rear chamber, and the pumps would die I think due to over heating so I simply make sure I do a 2ws pump conversion at the same time, obviously its not needed if you run the pump the way you suggest!! Plus the 4ws pump is a mammout compared to the r33 pumps running a 2ws pumps looks better in the engine bay I think!!!

When you botch up the 4ws pump they eventually wreck themselves I have proven this to myself many times. so a 2wd pump is a must. can remove all pipe work associated with hicas system, dont forget the hicas pump in the engine bay its not needed. lastly a r31 pump would be okay they are fairly big units is the only downside but I am guessing it would work, just check the pulley size is close to the r32 4ws one and it should be right!!!