Fitzpatrick Speed Works

panasport dont go wide enough, and when I emailed watanabe their response is sorry our engrish is poor can you maybe translate to basic japanese. Thats getting beyond me a little so untill I am desperate I would rather try to find someone who has been down this path already that can maybe help me out???

damn you victorians and your bloody day off for melbourne cup!!!!

tahnsk scooby will give them a ring right now!!

yeah I want to buy new as I want to know what I am getting, plus I need to go through sizing so I ensure I am getting the maximum dish I can for the size wheels I am after.. Thanks for the input can anyone else help me out????

I started my mechanics apprentiship but take it from me no matter how much you love cars, (i work on cars everyday still) you get over 3 things. The crap pay for the high level of effort the job requires, working on things that you have zero interest in like old magna's, if I never have to do the tappets on another magna it will be too soon, and if you work in a performance shop like I did, fixing everyone elses crap and still ending up with crap!!!!! It is so much better to have another career build a name on the side for automotive work and pick and choose jobs, thats were I am at now, I work on cars that interest me doing jobs that I like, and I make money as I am not on a wage but getting paid per job like the boss does when you are an apprentice. Not trying to turn you off it to hard but make sure you are up for at least 2 years of rubbish jobs that everyone hates thats why the apprentice does them!!!

welcome to last month, 1300bhp standard internals hahahaha thats really funny!!!

I was wondering if anyone here knows of any Australian suppliers of these wheels?? I need to buy a set but if I cant get them in australia I need someone to decipher the differences between all the models and their offset system. I want a set of 15 or 16 inch tall rims with 8.5 fronts and the biggest they make for the back whick I think is 9 or 9,5. I need to make sure both front and rear have maximum dish. Can anybody help or point me in the direction of help. Thanks it is much appreciated. Daniel

r33 engine has the larger crank drive for the oil pump, this makes oil pumps last alot longer as the engagement is alot sturdier. Everything else engine wise is the same from an internals point of view. r33 has pull clutch unlike th r32 which is push. Power wise the engines are the same.

when we do all nissan engines we take apart the pumps, replace the screws in the backing plate with high tensile allen key bolts and use the high grade thread locking locktite for re-assembly, the allen key heads mean you can get alot more torque on the bolt, its a 10 minute job that lets us sleep at night.

does it have an elastometer or dampner or is it just solid alloy

we have one i a 4agze rally car and as previously mentioned had some response issues with the lambda sensor we were originally running the 6066 and upgraded to the 7057 and there was a markable difference so I would say the 7200 will be better again. Initially had some problems with noise and interference again I think it was contributed to the sensor, also moved the unit to a more secure position. Awesome bit of gear for tuning a rally car which are more tempremental to climates (full rain days to desert racing with 40+), and also mid range power and low down torque are more important as there is so much more on off throttle, and this is where we were able to make gains rather than sit on the dyno for hours trying to simulate real driving or just doing full power runs for tuning!!!

SEARCH is your friend, has been covered many times, it is a good option will work out around the same money as rb25 in the end, the bonus is way more torque and as a result more power!!!

PNBLIGHT Thanks for that I didnt actual know that Veilside didnt make strokers, do they make any forged cranks oruse others, the car must of had another brand maybe HKS?? It was certain that the car was an ex Veilside promo, it had a hideous one off kit with big veilside stickers down the sides and veilside badges and a number placard with veilside on it etc. Not bagging the 2,8 kits at all I think they are beautifully made just the problem as with most japanese stuff due to their economic situation, it's too expensive for the average joe!!!

yeah car was reaching just under 2 bar by 5 and reved out to 9.5k, was very impressive!!!! considering sotock turbos reach full boost just under a 4k and from what I have heard tdo6's on a rb26 dont see full boost to near on 6 I would be confident in saying the extra 200cc was doing a hell of alot to make it a better driving car!!!

Hi Geoff, I checked out that thread and have to disagree with one thing I wasnt sure so I just went and checked to be sure, and the r34 N1 pump I have here has 12 internal lobes same as the r33 GTR one I have here!!!! Now I know it is a genuine r34 gtr pump as I got it from nissan with the N1 part number on the front. Everything else checks out as the alchemist says, didnt check hardness havent got the equipment. This is an intereting one maybe they changed back on the r34 design or maybe the r33 pump I have is actually a N1 unit?? I will check that with the original owner soon. I like little adventures like this it adds to learning. cheers

Hi Geoff, I checked out that thread and have to disagree with one thing I wasnt sure so I just went and checked to be sure, and the r34 N1 pump I have here has 12 internal lobes same as the r33 GTR one I have here!!!! Now I know it is a genuine r34 gtr pump as I got it from nissan with the N1 part number on the front. Everything else checks out as the alchemist says, didnt check hardness havent got the equipment. This is an intereting one maybe they changed back on the r34 design or maybe the r33 pump I have is actually a N1 unit?? I will check that with the original owner soon. I like little adventures like this it adds to learning. cheers

I have been in a R33 GTR with a veilside 2.8L stroker and twin td06's, and let me say the car was absolutley awesome. It was delivered from Japan as is and was an ex veilside promo car, I am sure as few of the older die hard skyliners in Sydney will know the guy and car I am refering to. With tdo6's and around 460rwkw the car came on strong and was alot more responsive off boost than expected, ie the extra 200cc made it such a different beast to say my gtr at the time with a rb26 and t51!!! Just a quick side quip, I can send all the specs to a rb30 crank to a very highly reputable parts manufacturer in America, they can produce for me a one off full forged billit crank for $7200USD in steel and $11,500USD in titanium!!!Now if I was ever going to do a 2.8L Jap kit I would first slap myself and say dont be stupid the Japanese kits are overpiced then I would send my crank over get it made then make a 28mm spacer for the top off my rb26 and have myself a 3L rb26. But then I would realised thats to much money and effort and build a aussie rb30 which have the same main girdle design (which people is the weak point of all the nissan straight 6 designs) and make the same power and save myself 10g! But I am not comparing APPLES AND APPLES so sorry!!! At the end of the day SLY33 was after experience with the kits and from experience they are an awesome bit of gear, there only downfall I believe is expense, but its your money and you spend however you like my friend. Cheers.

the only difference is the N1 runs higher oil pressure flow rates are the same!!! THe n1 has a different spring in the relief valve, this is handy for running remote oil filters and coolers as you dont loose as much pressure. Depending on the pump you have and how many kays are on it, generally if they have low k's and you checked the backing plate was really tight you will be fine. As for price new N1 @ around $600 seems right probably can get cheaper but I dont really know. You can change the oil pump with the engine in it difficult though. What car is it?? If its a gtr you will need to unbolt all the sump lift the engine off the mounts a little and them un bolt the pump and take is out. You need to drop the sump as the prssure relief valve has a bolt that is at the bottom of the oil pump and fouls on the front of the sump when trying to get the pump off the crank. Hope this helps!!!

they always work out at around 1200-1400 for me when I rebuild them back to standard but I do a few extras. $700 is usually the cost of a balance, deck, hone, and clean so if its what its said to be should be a good deal!!!

I have used REV's and they sh1t all over eagles, honestly dont even bother with an eagle or any other six inch chev rod that is machined to suit they are never as good as a purposely produced item. REVs are really good value for money and I havent had a problem yet, car has produced in excess of 580hp at the wheels, drives around normally with 500hp at the treads and has done 5000ks of hard service and are fine. Another rb30 a friend has with them through a main bearing and upon inspection of all the rods they were still well within factory specs this car has similar hp figures to the previous. I would recommend them to anyone looking to get a good rod at the middle to lower price range, as they measure just as good as some of the more expensive rods I have delt with!!!

It wont be an rb I can almost put my life on that!!!

Ill say one thing I would by a 350z over it any day. I will treat is as a work in progress, it looks a lot better than the sketches so hopefully they will make the same headway with the actual production vehicle.

I am all for it. It would be interesting to see the relevant age of those that are for it; is it just an older persons gripe??? I ask this because I don't consider myself old, 23, but I am still a bit pre-mobile era, so I can actually re-call when it wasn't normal to have a mobile phone and talk like a retard. I think mobile phones are so intrenched in our society people are under pressure to use sms short hand otherwise they don't look cool or something, it's really annoying because its looks so lazy and stupid. Sorry for the rant but I am for the spell checker, and just wanted to see peoples opinions on the mobile era ruining the english language.

I woulndnt run an 800hp skyline on 666cc injectors thats for sure. You will need an aftermarket computer for anything larger than 550cc injectors. With an aftermarket computer how a big injector behaves has a lot to do with the tuner and how much time they put into loading injector inputs and how finely they tune the opeining of an injector, if someone does a rough job you will get a rough idling car and other associated problems. To clear up for those who dont undertand an injector is operated from the computer through a hot wire (power) that powers the injector diaphram which inturn opens the a needle off a seat and the fuel pressure behind the injector sprays fuel through the injector past the needle and into the inlet. The computer tunes how long of time the injector is feed power to lift the needle off the seat. An injectors size is detemined buy the area of the needle ie if you have one needle at .2mm in one injector and have a twin pintle design with 1.5mm needles the second is going to larger. The computer controls smaller injectors better as if the injector is left open too long there isnt as big of an opeing letting fuel through, however the tuner of an after market computer if good enough can tune a big injector as effectively as any other, it comes down to time and experience as we are talking 100's and 1000s of a second in injector timing. Hope this clear it up for people. The stuff I have seen on american ebay for cheap prices doesnt look that good and I dont think you would be recieving the item you are paying for, as a rule of thumb in Austrlalain dollars for six that are a direct fit you will pay the same as the size. Ie. 600cc around $600, 1000cc around $1000. This is for quality stuff that will fit the application.

Castrol was quite good with there mineral 20-50w oil being one of the very best commercial oils and its a good price. There synthetics were better than alot of the others but still not what you would want for the price you pay, alot better than the other major three if you can read between the lines. For a more standard engine ie, standard lift, duration, valve spring rates its is sufficient!! PM If you want some direct comparisons!! Cheers.