Fitzpatrick Speed Works

Really disapointed with the detailing on the Maybach whoever polished it should be shot, and no tire shine WTF!!!!! Its a car show, none the less the actuall car is horn. Love the Efigy, great concept and unbelievable build quality to boot, I was dumbfounded holden actually spent money and built such a car. Looks very close to a lincoln zephyr though would be my only gripe!!!!

email hasnt been replied to yet spoolup might be away, so does anyone else have any, just need them pretty quickly. If you read this first Spool up can you give me a ring on 0418 327 427 or PM or reply here. CHeers, Daniel

rick just to clear something up that might scare off potential buyers, 40thou over bore is 87mm pistons, its probably just a typo but it stands out to those in the know. Good luck with the sale one of the best value for money GTRs I have seen on here is a while. Daniel

We have been doing heaps of tests on oils recently, as we have set up a test using a head in a jig tied into a lathe. The head is then spun at 6000rpm with a syrenge set up on a timer to periodically drop 20ml of oil on the the cam lobes with the test performed for 20mins on each oil. The cam and all related valvetrain is then swapped for another set of new gear so we can gauge exactly what each oil is doing. The tests we are doing are a little crude as compared to full laboritory testing but funnily enough castrol has been sending us samples of new oils they are releasing, initially i think to see if we knew what we were doing but now as a secondary source of info. The problem is each year oil companys are under stricter and stricter regualations on emissions which means they are removing good minerals and chemicals that prelong engine life and stop engine wear. It has been very interesting to see what some of the oils have done under the testing. Synthetics are generally half as good as even the cheapest mineral oil, but alot of cars must run synthetic for the weight properties. I dont want to bad mouth any oils and I wont but from our tests, if you want a good synthetic oil for your car run a motor bike oil like motul or repsoil. The oil for motorbikes doesnt need to meet emissions testing and it it designed better as in a bike it has to be under more loads as the gearbox uses the same oil. About the closest to these in terms of performance in our testing would be redline synthetic, and motul 300. There are few good other ones but these few I have mentioned are easily available to most of you guys. Hope this helps

with a clutch, good luck to you. If you can buy a new one for that and mine is cheaper and near new, whats the problem mine is still cheaper!!!!!!!!!!!!!! not by much but thats a refection of the condition, also I dont see anyone else who even knows of another holinger let alone is offering it up???? Doesnt matter, will hang onto it...Cheers

well seen as though none of the nissan passenger cars are any longer inline 6 I will put a lazy hundred on saying it wont be an inline six. It will be a v6 based on the zed engine, or a v8...... I hate the new design but the jap designed cars rarely look like their concepts, the concepts are always over emphasised. I hope its better in real life there are so many bad styling ques and unsympathetic lines that clash in those drawings, i really pray they fixed that for the actually 3d rendering!!!

your spot on the money you dont need any of the hicas or atttessa loom only w1 and w3 will help you!! I hate the iring in these cars best option is to cut it all out and start again but that cost money if you are patient you can get the standard loom happening, good luck mate.

email sent, thans for the reply to my wanted post. Cheers, Daniel

Hi all, I am after 4 lifter/shi buckets for an rb26 head. I dont need shims just the lifter, its the round metal thing that sits on top of the valve spring for those who dont understand exactly what I am after. Thanks Daniel

the box we have is sequential.

BH dave you can raide the limiter I have done it to 3 gtst, have raised the limiter to 8 because they where still making power till redline, However 2 of those cars spat rods out the side as the oil pumps didnt like that any rpms. The other we tuned with adjustable cam gear on the inlet to get it rolling over at about 7.2 with the limiter now set at 7.5k. Its a mater of the condition of the car as much as anything else, however rb25 do blow far easier in my experiece by making around with limters, boost and timing than the other rb series and it comes down to some of the stuff I mentioned above!!!

the rb20 has a higher limiter as it has a short stroke, and smaller capacity the shock loading, power generated by each revolution and some other factors is lower thus the engine can safely rev higher. The 25 has a relatively low limiter or a few reasons the main two are the rods are weaker than say an rb26, and the engine doesnt need to rev any harder as it is out of its effeciency range, the cams, cam timing, head flow dont work as effecienty above 7g so why bother reving it. Also the car was never marketed as a race bread car rather a good sports car, and a good sports car should have good low end response as well as up top go. The rb26 is a race bread engine. The bigger revs are a result of better engineering and the need to rev a short stroked engine to make the power, other factors such as head design solid lifters etc accomodate higher revs. When building a rb30 with a twin cam head setting a limiter is really a mater of how the whole package is set up. What sort internals have been used, what is the head setup like??? However on a rb30 regardless of build you dont really ever need to take it beyond 7500RPM, as usually they have rolled over on the power curve anyway and alot of other strengthening work needs to be done to safely rev beyond 7.5-8g. This isnt a really technical answer but I am sure you will get the idea.

Last person that I sent to Nizpro for a crank girdle was rejected. He said he no longer does them they where to much f'ing around, plus they where designed to suit a gtr sump the ones he makes so there is no point unless you are running a 4wd sump, which i guess you probably will be.... Standard rods over 320rwkw=bad. Rods are cheap now so its worth while doing. I have a rb30 with standard 25 head with rev rods and arias pistons putting out 550hp at the wheels on only 15psi, has done over 5 thousand k's, hasnt missed a beat. Another engine has the even cheaper eagle rods and has put out over 600hp at the wheels and has clocked a fair few miles and is fine. For the extra 1500 or so its worth the effort, and it will save you in the long run. SK you have reved a rb30 to over 9 thats impressive, I am making a billet crank gidle for mine at the moment ad was only going to rev it to 8.5... I can see why Nizpro charge around 4g for the girdle there is massive amount of work involved in the project. the raw materials alone cost and arm and a leg. 70mm plate aluminium, cha ching!!!!!

Got one setup for 4.3 diff gears, and no transfere case. Want around $16,000g in good condition!!!

have sorted it out thanks to doughboy an vilian, thanks for the offer from spoolup too. Thanks boys appreciate it.

I am after a front diff, standard or aftermarket. I have a bare sump with nothing in it, bit if someone has a complete unit I will take that. I need everthing from center to ratio to driveshafts. Please call 0418 327 427 or PM me or reply here, I wont dick anyone around if they have one, if in sydney I will even drive up and pickup.... Cheers, Daniel

do you have a gtr sump???

maybe on the new block if its drag race only grout fill it. On the a brand new rb30 we are building we are grout filling the block as well as running chomoly cylinder liners and a custom sump girdle, that lines the inside of the block and join the thin parts of the block to the girdle.

I could never get the pics to work they worked some times, i think with the forum changeover they are lost forever. What do you need pics of maybe I can organise something!!!

Funky Not American nor do I own a VL, you need to go in a r33 with a rb25 then go in the same speced r33 (ie, same sized turbo, exhaust etc...) with a rb30, and you will understand why its the best possible solution. You can eve take a ride in a gtr with a t88 then hop in a supra with the same turbo, the supra is heavier but based on average power will be a much more user friendly car and the torque will more than disguise the extra weight. Theres not alot more work in putting in a r30 over a rb25 they are both pretty big jobs!!!!

30K NZ that farkin ridiculous. I dont know how some of these guys are justyfying what they are selling against the real cost, ah well good for him if people are doing it. With my plate if you droped it off to a shop and threw them my instrusction guide, which is 16 pages with diagrams and very detailed, theres no way they could charge you anymore than $1200 to fit it all. Simply put theres a little drilling, some cutting, and welding and about $50 in materials. I am not a salesman and I am not in selling my designed plates for making money I make around $50-$100 a plate and it covers my running around, fuel and trys to recoupe some r and d time. Its up to you but there are 2 gts4s running my plate and although I have never been in the car according to the owner its a totally different car, and couldnt want anymore from a street car that he has only spent around 10g on all the mods!!!

Thanks to both Troy and Browny, both legends.... Troy the ignotion fuse box out put diagram is going to be a huge help, and browny the 4wd loom schematic is awesome. Over time I am going to re draw my own diagrams ones that are super easy to understand and are layed out as the are in the vehicle. Thanks again to both of you guys I really appreciate the effort. Cheers, Daniel

Thats the thing, In my sumps I get alot of the extra capacity by going wider not just deeper, the trust one in my eyes is a rip, I can fold the same square box of aluminium in 3mm sheet in about 20 minutes at around $15 for the ally.... I make my own baffle/trapdoors as my sumps are deeper they need to be a custom height, the tomie, arc baffle kits I have seen are really good though and I would recommend them to anyone who wants t go weekend circuit racing!!!! As a side note more oil means cooler oil also, so there are a few different benefits to extra capacity.

A wet sump done correctly will provide a 95% perfect result, however it cant make you horsepower, and sometimes packaging a good wet sump it a problem due to ground clearence. For a street car a dry sump is overkill. I have made three custom wet sumps, one was 11 litres, the other 2 are 7.5-8 litres, I also make a custom trap door system for the inside. To be honest I dont think many of us could dirve our cars hard enough to warrant anything more substantial than a good wet system, the advantage on the dry sump as I see it is the small horsepower gains. Heres some pics

A wet sump done correctly will provide a 95% perfect result, however it cant make you horsepower, and sometimes packaging a good wet sump it a problem due to ground clearence. For a street car a dry sump is overkill. I have made three custom wet sumps, one was 11 litres, the other 2 are 7.5-8 litres, I also make a custom trap door system for the inside. To be honest I dont think many of us could dirve our cars hard enough to warrant anything more substantial than a good wet system, the advantage on the dry sump as I see it is the small horsepower gains. Heres some pics