Fitzpatrick Speed Works

it helps traction in a gtr drag car.... You need all the wheels to spin off the line not just 3... Not really a good idea for a street oriented car. My friend brought a r32 gtr in that had a nismo 1.5 way front lsd and it was downright scary driving through corners at pace as the steering wheel tried to pull straight hard.... Drive a powerfull front wheel drive car with an lsd and you will get the idea!!!

Burko I think at the level of mods you have an aftermarket throttle body is a worth while investment and will provide benefits. Yes you ca run the standard item to x amount but the same thing can be said about a number of engine components. At your stage you have to eliminate restrictions for the best possible result!!! Manage When i said Power FC i meant the whole Apexi range. Autronic will still struggle to give you a good result and you need a good tuner with alot of experience to make the transition from tps on a multi throttled car to boost map a smooth one!!! As a side note the effects of these change overs are far less noticable on a laggier system say a big single or big twins as the turbo(s) build boost slower and the mapping can be done in longer intervals making it more subtle and easier to get around. When I said you need afms I was referning to the fact you would be running a PFC or Motec due to the fact you are still running 6 throttle,(hope that made sense), so no you dont need AFMS on all single turbo setups only if you are thinking of using 6 throttles, which in turn limits you to certain computers... It isnt a bad thing its just a point i was making. Yes the 6 throttle are great and dont pose restrictions etc, but as forementioned all the cars you are using as example are race bred and drag cars, and arent shy on the cash either, twin q45 afms dont bother them where they might bother us as the price for 2 is the same as a normal power fc. Also Motec and Autronic are great but far beyond the reach of your average enthusiasts, manage you raise good points and people should consider them, I am just providing some other schools of thought!!! Hope this helps, Daniel

They replace the shims that work on the viscous coupling for the lsd. They put thicker shims in and it in turn tightens your diff, however they also become losser faster once this mod is done as there is more pressure than standard... I would suggest a mechanical diff, however no one should have problems with a modded standard item till at least 250rwkw+. As a side note these diffs are incredibly strong as skyline owners we should all thank our stars that our diffs take 5 times the factory power out put and more and live on, they only ever really suffer drive shaft failures in full own gtr drag cars and even then the remidee is an easy one!!! Hope this helps

Keirs is far from standard, and at that level it is more of a tuning preference. Keir can run the six throttle bodies and not notice the disadvantages as much as others might as it is a full blown drag car and only sees full throttle. I am not argueing against the standard nissan setup it it great but it limits you to power fc or a motec, plus with a big turbo you will be forced to run afms (again not a disadvantage but damn expensive) because you are basically stuck with a power fc when using 6 throttle and they are AFM computers. To answer you question a single throttle body isnt a nessisity as there is no restriction there standard its just a matter of preference. Myself I will be running a single throttle as I am running a maf based computer, also I am running a GT head cooling system which is very hard to do with the six throttle, it is a packaging thing.. Tell us more about your circumstances and people can give you more accurate answers.

the gts4 box is weaker on the internals side, they have a smaller input shaft and gearset runners are also smaller as are the actuall gearsets and the ratio on each gear is slightly different. Dont know on the transfere case side of things never had the two different models apart, but the part numbers from nissan on the clutch packs are different this could mean they are different i dont know??? As for casing who knows I think you would be alright running th gts4 casing there shouldnt be alot more stress on the casing it should rise in stress per horsepower like other factors might!

Yeah I think that is the way to go Dave. You have to ask around on these things especially considering there seems to be variances in the blocks themselves!!

I have had extensive talks with the two authorities on jatco style gearboxes (one was MV) and they both agree yes they can modify a gts4 gearbox for around 4g and get a pretty good item but thats all they can do, and they really arent going to take a serious drag application with 400rwkw+.. its just the design of the box and nothing can be done about it... For a serious drag car you need a transbrake and the jatcos fall to pieces with transbrakes they literally smash apart the governers and melt the the maze inside the auto!!!! I have seen a powerglide adapted to the gtr 4wd drive and it was a nice job but in no way was it an easy or small job, plus powerglides are 2 speed I am a strong believer that on a turbo application with step power curves, narrow torque spread, and ridiculously high rpms and hp figures in high rpms, a 2 speed is a waste of time. The spread for gearing means on a huge turboed car you need to launch them at massive rpm and they are really hard to get right.. Too high rpm launch equals wheels spin too low equals the turbo off boost. Then when you change gear mid track you are way back down your rev range which on a small capacity engine with high peak torque isnt a good thing for building speed....So while you can beef up you gts4 or stagea gearbox you are never going to be able to get anything substantially benificial for full on drag cars making good power(read over 500kw), without basically rebuilding everything inside from scratch then you into holinger terratory..... On another note it is really hard to compare different motorsports to each other, for example in trusty old datto 1600s alot of my mates run around with r180 lockers on the street and circuit with around 200rwkw from fj20's, the diffs themselves never break they last and last, however at the circut you usually see them break the planterys (the constant torque on off out of varying corners). Now the same diff in a rally car with 120rwkw goes through a r180 nearly every meet, it smashes the absoulte crap out of everything they are throw aways. On another 1600 with around 180rwkw we have been through 4 sets of half shafts (the diffs stay beautifull but the break the shaft in half) on the same diff (r180) from taking it to the drags. So although this doesnt have much to do with skylines it shows the varience of effects the car is under from different motorsports. Hope this adds to the discussion.

rb30

Dave & Gary, Dave after I taked to you about this i looked at my spare rb30 and noticed that you are right they are 2mm, however on my good engine the one I was basing my opinion on the oil feeds are only 1.2mm??? Gary have you ever seen the rb30 with the smaller oil feeds, I had a look at a few others today and they are all bigger (2mm), and I know I didnt change them so this is really weird!!!! Not complaining just trying to work out why so if it is a production thing I will look fo more motors or this model...

the probelm with an auto in a gtr is the transfere case. Have a look at an american auto something that is good and can be built to take the power, say turbo 400, c4, powerglide... Then have a look at the extension housing on the thing its around 2 inches round and the transfere case has to be bolted to that- its a nightmare... It can be done by you basically re-inventing the gearbox case to do it which equals alot of time and developement. Sure you could use a gts4 auto but they simply wont take the power and people dont make any parts for them, and custom one off parts are going to land you in holinger terratory, read mortgage the house!!!! Also with the jatco style jap boxes they melt even with all the good stuff, thus we are left with no other option than a jap manual box...

Matt I will take that crank no dicking you around no arguing on the price I am deadset if you are still trying to get rid of it PM and I will send you my address and you can COD it today....

what plugs are in the car and whats the gap????

I want the crank and will take it asap, I have sent you a PM... Oh also I might be interested in the injectors and rods too but send me a PM with your contact details. Daniel

well I have used the standard rb26 with o ringing and have had cars making over 600hp at the wheels without a single problem.... The standard ones are quite good but something like a stock thickness cometic or jap brand one will probably help you sleep a little easier at night if you dont o ring it that is!!!! CHeers

I have used REVS and Eagles in two different rb30's and they are going well with the engine with the REVS making 639hp at the wheels at 26psi and has done heaps of hard work and they are taking it very well.... Eagles are a bit of a dick around as you have to machine the crank to suit, i'd rather standard.....REVS are made in the US..... That said In an rb26 my good friend is building he is using crower and they look really well designed....

manage, when you say manifold what are you talking about are you talking about the bit that bolts between the head and the throttle bodies??? If so I will take it... Let me know..

If you can get Mahle pistons for an rb26 or even rb25 I would really like to know those part numbers, Mahle are the best no questions... I have been trying to get them for the rb for the best part of this year but with no success, another thing to remember is alot of mahle designs have really short sides or skirts more or less none they are just the crowns this is aweseome for power but not really longevity as they arent as stable in the bore. They are good though... ACL are just replacement type pistons they are good but dont offer high end forgies made from good materials like some of the other companies, but again they serve there purposes!!!!

Wiseco are quite good as they have nice long skirts to keep them really square in the bore, and the ring lands and incisions are really good in terms of squarness to the bore and are made pretty exact... the only thing I personally dont like is on the edge of the piston top is perfectly square ie they dont have a slight chamfure like every other piston on the market and I have seen wisecos in the past suffer failures that other pistons might not have experienced due to the edges cracking and flacking due to slight pinging... not saying they are bad just what I have seen, plus I really like Arias as they have heaps of meat around the wrist pin area which is good for high hp.... Ring gap depends on rings, but generally on Arias I run 16-18thou for an engine under 400kw or 22psi, and upto 20thou for full on high hp engines.... and also I run the second ring at the same gap, and always make sure the second ring is 180 degree to the first so the piston ring gap is on opposite sides so they cant line up which can cause blow by problems!!!! Cheers

Dave I think you need to write out a list of questions and give me a call, ahaha??? D-Jetro wont work with AFM's It will work with 6 throttles but its tuff to set up right, as you are switching from tps to boost map in a much harder way to calculate accurately as compared to a sinlge throttle...It will TPS but its better to run the all the programming as done by the tuner in pressure off the MAF, it just saves time and get you the result you are after when using the d jetro which is outright HP, thats why as people have said it is a WOT and drag friendly computer...

There is nothing wrong with Arias pistons, especially as the last few sets I have had have been full forged ie the older set where forged then machined down.... on not only the outside as all pistons are, but also the inside, only slightly ( far less than say wiseco) as they where probably used for a few different models.... The newer versions the inside is left cast (Like a JE, or CP) which tells me that the piston is forged specifically for its application which is a very good thing in terms of strength... Personally Ross isnt fantastic, they are by far the best for FOrds, no arguements, its all we use in clevo's but their sports compact range (as yanks call it, meaning rb series, sr's ,Fj's etc)) stuff is all machined and has sharpe edges on the inside and just stuff you dont like to see on a piston as when something is really thick (around the gudgeon and skirts) then it steps down to thinner in a sudden drop it is far weaker then a graduated difference as on a non machined piston.... I think most of the pistons now available the difference is nothing (they are all made really well to good standards) the failures and problems people run into is to do with how the engine is put together.... theres is so many factors that can work against you when running clearances and also how the rings are set up (many trick old engine builders use to get good ring seal and vacuum)... Chromium rings as provided by Arias are really good, as are Sealed power ones...The N1 rings feel exactly the same when filing as the Arias ones so I would think they might be a chromium ring also.... Hope this helps... Daniel

Thanks SK, I was hoping people would appreciate that I am actually providing a really good deal for someone... Will post some pics on Tues or Weds as I am currently out of town, sorry for the wait will be done asap... Thanks, Daniel

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I Have a fully built rb30 short motor with only the best products used and alot of extra care taken in the build. It is ideally setup up for a rb30 into a gtr as some of the extra bolt holes on the bottom have been drilled to suite the adapter plate and it can come with a N1 oil pump modded to run the external pcikup needed for a rb30 in a 4wd setup...(Can supply adapter plate also if needed for 4wd) However these small mods will have no ill effect if run as a rwd motor..... Mods as follows: Tear dropped and balanced, ground and linished Crank, with grub screws, the journals have been machined down 10thou to ensure they are perfectly round and have the perfect clearances to run 550kw+, both the main and big ends are equipped with ACL race series bearings, and the crank girdle has been shot peened.... O ringed/ torque plate honed and line honed block, the girdle has been tunnel squared, and the deck skimmed to ensure it is perfectly square for the o-rings, engine has brass welsh plugs....crank girdle has brand new nissan bolts which are actually the rb26 items so they are 12mm not 10mm and are longer also, and the crank has the jun collar on the front for the latter model oil pumps. Also the block has been drilled for the oil pressure line to the turbo. And has had the hole drilled and tapped for the extra idler needed for a twin cam head. Has new rear main seal, and cover modded to suit the twin cam belt!! REV forged 4340 chomoly I beam con rods with arp 2000 rod bolts...Arias 20”thou forged pistons with floating gudgeon, they are the lower silicon content items which are better for higher horsepower and boost pressures...they also have the spiral gudgeon clips which are a better design than some of the earlier circlip designs. Compression with stock rb26 sits at 8.4:1 with stock headgasket.... This engine is all wrapped up in plastic at the moment, and has only just been assembled this week. this was a very meticulous build as It was going in my GTR which I was hoping to achieve over 500KW at the wheels on c16 with so it was built very strong..... The reason for sale is that the car can no longer be a weekend toy due to financial restraints of opening a new business, I have to return it to a more sensible daily driver.... The cost of this engine as a walk off the street customer at a performance shop would be around 10g.. PRICE: $6500 ONO Plus freight, can organise freight for Australia wide.... Please all genuine people PM me and I will give you a call to discuss!!!! Regards, Daniel

greg throw me a pm or a email, we can have a chat if you want. Ill give my number, and you can give me a call!!!

Allblitz send me a PM mate if you are interested in some knowledge and ideas... I dont work for or own a workshop, but I am currently building 3 rb30's, an rb26, and I am building a rb25 for my 240k that I want to have a really reliable 260kw atw's...... Its really achievable for little money but there are a few areas rb25 need special attention as oppossed to the other two rb's... Cheers... Daniel...