Fitzpatrick Speed Works

With a 9.5mm lift cam the stock springs bind rate should still be okay but anything larger and you will need to replace valve springs with something the will match your cam profile!!!

RB26 heads are pricks to work on, they are just rubbish because they take so much damn time and every head i have pulled apart the exhaust valve guides are always thrashed out and need replacing... THe shims are also a real pain in the but and bloody expensive... To give you an idea on what you should be able to achieve with a stock cam reground the stock base circle is 33mm, I have a set of jun 272, 10.8mm lift cams and the base circle is 30mm. The overall height from base to pitch is only .8mm difference in favour of the Jun item... So with stock cams I rekon you should be able to get them to around 272 and 9.4-9.6 mm of lift which is nice as you wont need to grind the head down to fit that size cam!! Hope this helps!!!

YOu will find most companys use blanks then machine them to their standards... JE definately supplies to HKS whether HKS buy them complete or machine is anyones guess... I dont know about tomei, I rekon they would by blanks and machine them. HKS +Carillo rods is a definate, i have seen them in the flesh and can garuntee this!!!

All RB series pumps are exactly the same. Even the r32 N1 is the same the only difference comes in r33 N1 and r34..... Someone mentioned about the fact the rb25-26 revs higher that isnt a problem as the speed of the water pump is dictated by the size of the pulley and you will notice that the rb30 front pulley is way smaller... I have always used rb30 without a problem...

Go the skylines, that is such an awesome effort based on what they are up against both car wise and financially....All i can say is a very big WELL DONE!!!!

great info there Lucien. The reason i like arias over wiseco is they have a champered edge on the piston deck wheras wiseco have it square, the tampered edge will take alittle more punishment whereas I have seen wiseco's that have chipped the edge off and the metal has gone on to cause other problems!!! Je are also very good!!

a monograde is best around 15-20w. But a thin mineral based oil is also okay, something say 10-30w... Valvoline make a run in oil its good stuff and its cheap...

BK are you basing your opinions on solid facts or what you have read Martin Donnan believes in HPI???!!!!! I have developed a system to adapt the gtr sump to the rb30 motor that if anything would be stronger than the standard way it is done on an rb26. On my own engine I am also running vacuum pump, a custom made girdle strengthner( retaining the stock girdle) and ati are making me a custom billet steel 4 ring harmonic damper. I hope to achieve out of my own build around 900hp at the engine rev it to about 8200rpm and do it for a while. Nizpro have made well over 1000hp on there rb30/36 but it threw a rod through the block so they only advertsied to what they believed was the highest level safely and that was around 1000hp!!! After having talked with JUN and Veilside believe me any RB making over 1000hp has its fair share of problems, while rb30s have a major harmonic vibration at around 7.500RPM the Rb26 has the same at 9.200RPM and the same factors have to be faced in overcoming this and holding the engine together bearing wise once you start to rev the thing to make power.... You have to remember a rb30 at 7.5K is equal to the volumetric displacement of air as a Rb26 at 9K.... The problems the japs have with making that much power out rb26's is the revs place unbelievable loads on the valvetrain, veilside rebuild everything in the head every time they give there cars with over a 1000hp a full power run.... Mate it can be done but without sound engineering and mechanical knowledge it is really going to cost you an arm and a leg and maybe more, the trick will be finding someone to do it....

are the cam covers still available??

This is exactly why I never reply to posts of this nature, if there is difference of opinion someone is talking shit or they are an idiot. Check the figures cops (ie the government) make very good money from "pissing around", I never mentioned defects, I said revenue raised from road fines, and targeting so called "hoons"!!! I never said that drag racing should be allowed or that wankers dont exist on out road, or for that matter that police dont do a good job in general and that it should not be discouraged....My arguement was that the government and police know that car enthusists are a soft target and that any unfair or unjustified attention on the car scene is backed up by both the media )through sensationalising the story's) and the wider public (who only know what they have been told!!!!)... FOr god sake a drunk behind the wheel gets off at a court appearance 9 times out of 10 with a lighter punishment than a person who does a so called "burnout".

the fact is they can make money off people doing skids and its easy to inforce... I have actaully sat on a panel to discuss illegal street racing in Canberra and was basically told, it easy to make revenue off sensationalising the car scene... To the police it is a gold mine as the wider community will always back them up (media beats this up even further), they are rarely questioned ( we are to scared to get done for more shit), and the fines are exuberant and dont usually need unnessassary proceedures like lengthy paper work, interviews, trials, and low police presence to inforce!!! The reason they care more about drag racing and getting on our cases about cars is they make no money from suicide prevention or putting druggies behind bars, its simply one word my friends---- REVENUE!!! Plus normal people are stupid, they think drag racing kills!!!??? hahaha goin have another smoke or another beer!!!

Or better still than the N1 is the fact ATI now make rb26 dampers, that actually exceed SFI standards and have rebuildable elastometers!!!

the quick response abs thing on gtr's is a big pull.... I have had a really good look at the ABS on that purple GTR and the ABS is no different from any other r32 ABS I have ever seen!!!

Heres some shots of what I have been doing lately. Just painted some stuff on the weekend to go along with the 100s of other parts I have painted, started making my light weight doors, and also the massive rewire of the car. I am moving all the wiring inside the car and cutting from the loom what i dont need like radio stuff ect, hope I remember where it all goes cause the wire schematic is too big too understand haha.

over 1400kg for 4wd 6 cylinders that is bullshit, sounds like i need to put all the shit I took out back on!!!!! So 4wd arent allowed slicks either????

I like the extention on the website the ending particularly /damnissnan hahaha damn them indeed..

SOunds alot better than HKS at around the $1500 mark.. Sh1t I think i might get me one of those they are going to be a hell of alot better than anything mass produced I will have to reassess my finances but i think it a good option after all I hope to make around 500rwkw with mine I need all the reassurances i can get when I give it a work out!!!hahaha Thanks Joel for that link!!!

$90 champ. IF you buy them i will pay freight!!!

I swear the HKS fluid dampener is a modified or supplied ATI dampener it looks exactly the same... Fluidampr would make me a dampener in a standar siz ie. ever 1/2 inch from 6-9 inch with the crank land at the size to suit for $1000... THese dapmeners are tested and designed with exacting measurements and manufactured to handle up to 14000RPM, and yes the fluid is there as it is a far better shock absorber!!!

I took about 22 grams of metal out so Im not concerned about that part. I ran the balancer up on a lathe at 6000RPM and you should see the thing its absolute crap, just spending 20 mins trueing it up a bit just makes me feel better, and having it balanced indipendant to the motor is worth its while. My main point is the standard unit is pretty damn rubbish, and i can see how it could cause possible problems especially the rb30 one (hence why we don't use them) having known what I know now I would have definately invested the time in modifying a chev or ford fluid dampener to suit!!! I thought i would mention my experience and for the time invested read: not much, it makes sense to spend some effort on your stock unit!!! Cheers

alf last time i went to get a balancer for a rb26 when i chipped one i seem to remember them being around 300-400 brand new from nissan....

to true it up i just slightly machined the outer circumfrances, on an rb26 or 25 pully there is a fair bit of metal there that you can get running true to the centre hole... Having done that i still needed to balance it as i didnt square up the ribs where the belts run to run true with the center hole (crank hole). So if you look at your balancer from the back you will see its made in a few parts.... The center where the crank runs through is one cast piece and treat this as your center... There is another piece around this which is about the same size as you front pully then there is another piece that goes around it, these all have rubber sandwiched between them to dampen harmonics...I simply true up the very outside one, which is probably the furthest one out anyway, and its the only one you really get to.... The problem is you would never notice not running true one on the vehicle for a few reasons... you can never really look at it straight on, and with all the belts in place it hides a good view of the balancer. 700Hp would have noticed it on the engine dyno cause you can look at the engine quite carefully, thats why he mentions it.... I admit you cant totally make it true but you can improve on what is there!!!

In regards to an earlier post by Cubes about the dude on the calias forum.... Today i put both the standard (rb30) and a rb26 harmonic balancer(dampener) in the lathe to do some mild machining work on them and its no wonder these engines have harmonic problems. The dampener is that far from running true its not funny. I thought this might be a stuffed one or something so i grabbed two other rb25 ones and cheked and its the same.. Now if you run them in the lathe looking side on at them like this [] it runs true but look at it from the front ( ) and the outside circle is not runing true to the inside circle ie. the crank hole.... This is a big problem and its due to how they are manufactured with the rubber sandwiched between two planes, the outer circles can be squashed down uneven... Multiply this by 7000+RPM and i can see why the balancers tend to wander around on the end of the shaft, and the logicbehind using the heaver rb25,26 dampeners is that they probably do it less due to the weight. Now i trued mine up and it wasnt that hard and had to re balance it, as you will notice on the standard item there are a heap of holes cut out to try and balance them, which tells me they arent made that great from the factory. If i hadnt invested so much time setting up the gilmer belt setup on my existing dampener i would definately of tried to modify a fluid filled chev unit to suit the rb30, especially for anything over 600hp. Hope this adds some info for those interested in trying to sort out harmonic dampeners.

15 or 16 inch rims with a good sticky high sidewall tyre, on low pressure.

how do you get in, if in those pics the doors are right up theres isnt a very big opening to get in!!!!