Fitzpatrick Speed Works

yeah we are going to try and set up a high speed run in adelaide at an airstripe and try for 180mph out my gtr but its not for a while so i will have to look into it more!!! thanks all

the 94 r32's with the pull type gearbox run the same engine as the r33 they have the re designed crank drive, around may/june i think they changed!

if race car drivers get it wrong on the track from time to time what makes any of us really think we can get it right in an uncontrolled environment on the street. I was in a massive accident last year my mate who was drunk but didnt tell me (cause i was too) flipped his astra at about 100km sliding us on the roof to within one meter of someones living room in which a man was watching tv with his young daughter, i will never forget the noise and the what might of beens. This could of been avoiding and so could every mistake we make on the road but it happens and in a weird way it helps proove to us all we are human and life is too precious to think we are invinsible. RIP, sencere regrets and condolences to all those who know the deceased! Dan.

pics of injectors!!!

the rochesters are the same as the holly design they have holes that seperate the spray to give a finer spray pattern but are still single needle or pintle design i will post a pic of the design!!!

didnt know nissan made them but i know JUN and tomei make them im sure its the same thing check the nengun website for a photo of what it looks like so check there!!! Hope this helps. Daniel.

the problem with the r32 pumps is the drive engagement is too small, nissan knew this and fixed it on the r33 an r34 you should invest in getting your crank collared then fit a newer pump.. You can mod the stock pump by changing the spring rate in the pressure valve, this is all the N1 pump is anyway, something i found out after paying for a r34 N1 pump then having a close inspection and realising the stock one is the same!!!

joel mate rx7 ones are fine the spray is pretty much a stream as you say but this is due to the pinttle cap hole being to narrow you need to use toyota ones and drill them out slightly but the patter is quite narrow as opposed to your nismo quad pinttle varieties, but 550cc is small so the differences will be quite small....Also some of the earlier rx7 injectors will actually require you to bore the hole in your head slightly larger so be carefull what you buy if you go down that route. Personally i could never pay the ridiculous prices asked for by the jap brand injectors its bloody daylight robbery.. i use holley injectors in my car (110lbs= 1180cc Units), cause they are cheap, never fail, and alot of the product range is designed for methonol so the seals are alot higher grade but you will not get you your misty spray with these they are pretty savage but very effective!!!!

phantom when the block are bored we always make sure the run speed is low ie the bore tool moves slowly up and down the cylinder giving you a finely hatched pattern about roughly 25-35 degrees to the horizon if you where looking straight at the bore from inside. As my engine machinist has now aquirred a torque plate honer i will be using that from now on although the difference is minute its still ensuring the best possible result. discopotato03 with standard rod and pistons you can run the standard headgasket and using the headgasket on foges with my experiece with arias will give you around 8.6:1 comperssion using the hightops with standard rods, using the flat tops i believe its below 8 around 7.4:1. However the eagle rods being chev arent actually the correct length they are 6 inch not 5.92 that standard rods are and the sit above the deck height enough that you will need at least a 1.2mm headgast to acheive a squish and avoid valve isssue when running bigger camshafts. All this info is based on the 26head but its pretty much the same if you are using a 25 head, but the 20 head is different, correct me if im wrong i believe the cc of the rb20 head is 63cc and the rb26 is 66cc so it changes it all right there.

sorry joel mate that was a typo i meant to say from the start of the run in, i got ahead of myself! Im running the 4032 in mine but i havent ever really noticed a difference to tell you the truth, you could possibly run a tighter clearence with the other 2618 or whatever? due to lower silicon content but it would be that close i dont think it will matter. all the builds i have been involved we have set the clearence to 0.0035" clearence on every rb series engine. other engines vary like an sr is run at 0.0045" and ej20 we run alot tighter, due to the closer clearances set by the maunufacturer when they are stock, and you do notice a more audabile knock on start up due to this. you can always hear a knock in wrx's when its cold when its fitted with forgies! i guess this shows you can get a knock from forgies going either way, either with piston slap due to bigger clearences or from going tighter! Never be scared of a little noise from forgies, you guys should hear what some of the big block chevs sound like with them, massive pistons size with big clearences due to higher afrs to extract power from na's, they are pretty damn loud on start up but they settle in!!

also during my mock up the arias sit above the deck height, as do most pistons with this set up but particularly because im using the eagle h-beam rods, however i countered this with a 1.6mm head gasket to achieve an overall CR of 8.35:1.

great post ace_nz full of well thought out facts!!!! I have the new high top Aries specifically made for rb26 heads with rb30 bottoms, will post pics tomorrow, the tappering doesnt look as severe. Yes it is designed to minimise damage to the piston but that doesnt mean its inferior, i have helped put together 6 gtr engines and countless rb30's all with aries and never had any noticable slap noise or any problems whatsoever.I had one failure using weiscos on a gtr the slap noise was noticable from the begining of the bore, the bore was scored and it started blowing smoke, but i am in no way saying this is a regular thing im sure it was a one off, trade price on the arias is $1230, and the Weiscos from memory where $1195 but that was a while ago

my prices where rough sorry but my point still stands and i agree with SK and suggested it in my original thread, you have everything to benefit from bigger injectors so why is it so great to do big power on stockies that turn your engine into a timebomb??? Its like building a mansion then saying dont worry about using steel reinforcement ive seen people use timber on 2 bedroom houses that will do, back to the car If you have spent so much effort, time and money insuring reliabilty and performance everywhere else why skimp on the foundations, i dont dispute that you think the wolf is great, or the fact ot does the power i just cant fathom the mentality of doing it this way! Oh and my thought-out post was accepted everywhere common sense is, over 1000 locations Australia wide. (just keeping the mastercard thing going for you).

i just dont understand why people spend $500-800 on a good exhaust and dont even blink but then can't part with th money when it comes to something like coils or injectors??? So what if it does the power on stock injectors, why would you want to, ther are cheap in relevance to everything else you have modified to get to that power level??? Let me get this right, turbo and associated piping- $2000 ECU and Install- $2500 Intercooler, exhaust, cams, cam gears and other assciated good- $2000 Expecting your engine to last at high power levels with piss poor 370cc injectors, PRICELESS. There are some things money can't buy, but injectors shouldnt be one of them...

its all pretty easy to do its just time consuming due to the location your working at, ie un the dash!!!

Mate i want the boot hinge assemble all the sprung rods and the hinges, both pieces of them as they are two piece let me know what you think it is really hard to explain what i need i might need to grab and email addy take some pics off mine so you can see exactly what i need. Oh by the way they are a real prick to remove!!! hahaha

you can its just not the best option if your that close to making them out spend a bit of money and get bigger ones and have to comfort of knowing a job doen poperly once will save you in the long run!

fane mate they are all the same to answer you original question, only the rubber stem varies in length between the rb20 25 and 26 and this can be swapped over by simply pulling it off and interswapping to your needs!!!

i have the same problem dicky with my rb30 in my GTR as well. What i have done is ditched the booster, got a slave cylinder off a r32 gts-t, and also the pedal box, this is important as the gtr pedal box uses the studs coming off the booster but with the new set up its reverse the studs come off the gts-t pedal box... Next what you need to do is take apart the pedal box and swap pedal arms, ie. you need the gtr pedal arm in the gtst pedal assembly.. Next there is a metal stopper on the gtr pedal arm that stop it coming foword too far, you need to grind that off and recess a little notch so it can come foword alot further. Next the thread rod that is your adjustment needs to be cut down to nearly wear the thead ends then more thread has to be tappep down the rod, this is so it doesnt hit the back of the pedal arm and you still have adjustment.. Next you need to elongate the pin hole that holds the slave cylinder on to the pedal arm by about half a hole, again to avoid the back of pedle arm fouling on the threaded rod. The slave cylinder on the engine side also needs to be spaced foward 5mm, you can do it with washers but i made an aluminium plate so its a bit more solid and wont pivot. I then air hacksawed a little semi circle in the lip that hangs out of the firewall and you can get to the resevoir nicely with out needing a custon resevoir. Thats basically it, if you wanna ask any questions please do, its a pain of a job took me around 3-4 hours. PS lube up the rubber bush when you take the pedal arm out to stop future skweeks.

the rb26 block and rb20 block that is uses in the gts4 are the same block and although the rb30 block is taller on the scales the rb26 block weighs more. it has a much thicker side wall and has alot of horizontal girdling that the rb30 doesnt have and plus the way the sump bolt up to a rb26 with suds and bolt and nuts that run through the block rather than being taped into the block like the rb30 it would be a lot stronger. will try and get pics soon to show what i mean.

Ben, what belt are you running with the 26 head and how did you do your tensioner??????

We will have to let sinister decide then cause your right you did get in first but thats a very nice gester if you are letting me have first pick at it, we need more of this type kindness for fellow skyliners in need!!! Now i just need sinisters approval and address and i will be so happy!???????

you want i need due to someone droping something heavy in the middle of my once perfectly good gtr bonnet!!! so now i dont have one!!

sinister my number is 0418327427 sms me your number and i will pick it up today!!!

they wont fit anything except rb30's and if they are still chev ones they still require extensive mods to fit a rb30. Oh and they are heavier than stock rods, check my posts in the the r33 rb30det conversion thread just use my name and eagle rods in a search of the thread!!!