Fitzpatrick Speed Works

the attessa system is super sensitive to voltage drops, get a check done on your alternater, it can really screw things like attessa up, also make sure you have really good earthing on the battery ect!!!

looks like a tranny cooler to me

you would be doin well to get the guards, even in kevlar lighter than the factory aluminium ones and even if you did it would be that minimal, the driver goin for the quarter pounder instead of the big mac would make more difference!!! Like tho and as rezz said welcome to 2001, i was goin to go further but you get the idea!!

john do you own a r33 white one. im the guy in the gtr that you were tryin to go wen your clutch blew n i pulled over to see wat happened... hahaha funny small world..but you really should let a clutch bed in, however this is not to say it wasnt a dodgey clutch!!! skylines are good in my opinion but jake is the best!!! GTRKING is spot on while im sure theres plenty of places that could build you a full house engine theres only one guy that i know i can trust every word that he speaks n that is jake, anyone can do an exhuast, intercooler, or turbo swap!!

white32 is a great bloke to deal with, thanks alot for the effort made on your part...

bar and plates flow really high numbers and have very small pressure drops. There down fall is once they get hot due to the amont of metal that needs to b cooled, and they restrict air flow to the radiator severly compared with a tube and fin. I think they are good, im getting a 125mm thick bar plate at the moment for my GTR.

serek are really good coolers, i think you will find the B&M ones are actually transmission coolers as they make alot of auto stuff. I have never actually seen a b&m oil cooler......

run a sequential, almost as good as a auto on the drag track and a damn sight better incase you wana take some corners

im willing to talk on the lights im waiting to get your number or for you to sms me yours keen to talk!!!!!!!!!!

you have pm

you have a pic i need to see if it is the same model as my left one????

is this lip for a r32??? Im in the middle of some insurance finalising so i wont promise you anything but do you thing you could pm or email (s13drifter@yahoo.com) me your mobile so i can talk to you.. But i am genuinely interested.

2hrs LOL, it takes that to do a good full service an engine swap would take minimum 2 guys 6-7 hrs if they are good more if they havent done the exact same thing before.

also if you do go to far with a fuel pump and are pumping to much the stock reg cant dump all the fuel quick enough resulting in a pressure build=more pressure at injectors=problems with richness and blowing hoses ect..

the stock turbos might see you to high elevens but youd have to have a pretty perfect run to see much lower than that. See the stockies are only safely good for 250rwkw, i'd say to have a repeatable mid eleven 1/4 youd need aroun 280-300rwkw. A set of low mount ball bearing t28 or hks 2530's or similar and an upgraded fuel system should be all you need. You could stay with stock ecu and just reprogram it but its a bandaid and aftermarket solution is a better option. Tranny if treated nice can cope with high tens. So mid elevens are safe once again if you are a little bit gentle.

hybrid cores are good as long as you dont expect them to flow any more than 260-290rwkw in some of the earlier designs even lower. Other than that they are good value for money.

yes all that can be done no doubt with even street tyres i still believe you, but yes these kits cost money, and these cars are set up for drag racing with solis rear ends and usually mini tubs, (not all some) the most basic superchargers kit and all the essentials on a ls1 sets you back say 8g, spend that same 8g on a new r34gtr (apples for apples both new cars) and i bet the gtr wins again and i dont care if they are jap, german, english or aus parts...... Also dont forget there is about 30-40GTR's in japan that run low nines or 8's with street tyres... Not bagging the gts had one for a while there well dad did but, c'mon this thread is ridiculous its apples n oranges chalk n cheese one is a purpose built performance vechicle and one is a performance vechicle made from a purpose built fleet car, both have strong and week points but no need to have stupid arguements and prove you wrongs about them..

its cause the fuel rushes to the back of the tank and the floats at the front on r33's go on level ground at a stand still it evens out

300 at the treads is safe if you keep the air fuel ratio nice like nothing leaner than 12.5:1 after that its hard to make more power without a few things bigger turbos and more boost which ona small stroked engine like the rb26 generally requires more revs not always but generally... which means cams, forged pistons, stronger retainers, rods are still good and some other stuff but in short 300rwkw is safe on stock stuff.

bit of your own mediceine mines!!!!

the yellow one with stickers is owned by a guy called Marlon he lives across from kambah whatever thats called there!! it goes well has exhaust, filter, maybe fmic, and maybe apexi pfc but i havent chetted with him for ages, the other yellow one is owned or used to by a guy from evo and it is pretty trashed

im so keen to see it i have read all the books except the 3rd one which i will read b4 the movie. I cant see it yet the cinemas are to packed and alot of tickets are prebought so im got some for sun night. I didnt like the way the story of gandolf(spelling) and bilbo was so compressed in the the first movie but to get this right they would of had to do a seperate movie so all in all they did a good job. You dont have to be a nerd to like a movie or a book thats like saying you a pervert for admiring a fine woman!!!!!!!!!:lol:

i had a silvia b4 the gtr n it was a ca18det, i rekon they are a fantastic little engine. mine had a high flow turbo, front mount, remapped com.,ect. runnin 14psi it did 138kw at the wheels and a 13.75 quarter mile. It was nothing to sneeze at, and they rev so sweetly and sound way better than a sr, sr's to me sound horrible; so drouny but thats just personal taste. The ca's are pretty bullet proof if looked after??!!. The turbo is a weak link so are the coils if the motors got more than 100k on the clock. It is vital you change the oil every 5thou as the turbo return line on the ca is undersized and gets cloged with burnt or old oil which can in turn block oil from getting out of the turbo and boiling the oil!!! Dont think the main is a major fault with them it can happen to any car as much as another. They do tend to do head gaskets, especially no 1 if boosted with shit fuel, n let me tell you changin a head gasket on a ca is not fun( eccs makes it a bitch) With similar mods the ca to a sr will always be around 15rwkw down but the ca silvia especially in man form are about 25kgs lighter than the sr equiped cars so its always pretty close!! as with all s13's 180's always seem to of had a harder life, so id go and auto silvia turbo with low mile then change it to manual which is what i did with mine (easy as job to do the change took a day) If you get an auto you can be more certain it hasnt been some jap boys drift mobile or had its a.rse wrapped!! Ne way good luck theres heaps more i could go on about so if you have ne more q's let me know.

actually i think the sr is slightly lighter as its all alloy

yeah dont use glue please!!! They dont fit well from factory so dont try n match the gap at the front to well cause they are not supposed to fit!! Other than that dont know wat else to say