Fitzpatrick Speed Works

Ill take two in this group buy, baron get on it mate!!??

You may have missed my post???

apexi dont make those anymore, tried to order one last year no good. ADVAN in silverwater make one but it doesnt look as nice. I am making one on a wilwood brake pedal and floor mounting it, but I still dont know if it will work how I hope.

Is the car an abs one?? If not I am after the brake proportioning valve that is just after the master cylinder. If you have PLease let me know. Cheers

Paul that first picture is actually a water turbine, so you can put that on the R but it may cost you a few tenths.

yes it is they are all the same autopro or similar should be able to help.

artcraft Signs in Mitchell can do them for you in brass or aluminium, in hepas of fonts, give them a call on 6241 8558

you need those sensors to run attessa as they also monitor wheel speed for variation between front and rear ie, wheelspin ie the attessa cuts in. DONT remove those sensors then you will really have problems!!! Attessa standard disengages when you hit the brakes normally obviosuly the problem you are having is that it wont work again unless you turn the car off. I have had this problem witha standard car before so I dont think you need to worry about it being due to the fact yours is modified. Check the voltage signal that is sent from these wheel sensors when you start the car fresh, then if you can monitor this and you will probably notice when you apply the brake tou might be seeing a voltage drop which in turn cause the attessa computer to shut off till you restart. This may not be the problem but its a starting point. Cheers PS good to see her nearly going>>>

Bump.

On a side note I have some oversized valves for sale at the moment which would work very well with a head porting. JHH seem very knowledgable to me, is there anyone in Sydney that can doa good job and turn around the work quickly and reliably???

I have a set of brand new never used NAPREC big valves for a RB26. These valves are 1.5mm oversize however don't require new seat location just a radius and new seats to be cut. A must have when chasing big hp, on my own flow bench increasing the valve seat curtan area buy 1.5mm allowed 10cfm more on the inlet and 17cfm on the exhaust. (these test where run a 10.5 inches of water) Although these are mentioned on websites for sale I never managed to ever get anywhere waiting for a response and hired a translator to ring Japan and special order these for me. They are of the highest quality, as mentioned a great assett in a high hp and serious engine build, a mod that will net you genuine power gains. Asking $600 plus freight for the the full set of Inlet and Exhaust. Cheers

Who cares whos GF she is, she is on an internet forum now people can what they want...... hell Id even pay!!!!

Rob from diff doctor is your man, definately the most reasonably priced in ACT and very knowledgable.

have you ever driven a 350z. Before you say silly comments like the v35 ruined skylines you should they are an incredible engine, sooo much torque, so smooth, and yet so economical, my mums 350z gets 10.5l/100km AROUND TOWN, sure she drives conservatively but no matter how you drive your RB sereis you aint ever going to get that low. Cant wait for the driveline info to come out.....

Just read my thread looks like I am having a massive go at you, sorry mate, not my intention. Seroiusly though all i ask for is when people make statements they qualify there statement with experience and genuine facts that is all, sure it is a discussion forum and people have a right to opinion and heresay, all people need to do though is make it clear when this is the case!!!

Sorry if you took it to personally but have you done a 2jz conversion on a skyline? Have you built motors? How much experience do you have with rb's or even 2j's for that matter? What do you do for a living, is it automotive based?? 10-15k on a rb hybrid to make the same power is that besed on the fact you own a part store, or have sone these engines before? This forum is over run by people who make statement sbased on there own opinions and no real experience (what they have read or the mates have told them) and by people who are not remotely qualified to make stupid generalisations , which is basically what this entire thread is.... Sorry to say it but it grinds my gears that theres is endless arguement about unqualified statements such as "2j head is shit" or "rb30's arent a race motor" etc... Its almost to the point where you most people with true knowledge (not saying myself by any stretch) are turned away cause they are sick to death of the dribble.

Threads like this make me laugh. Always good value and plenty of input from a bunch of people with little to no use for the real facts, with the real facts provided by the people who actually know what they are talking about ignored, and the useless comments like the one above argued till the cows come home.

Rb26 cams are just tricky little bastards, i have seen them snap undoing the cam caps, the thrust bearing is a real problem as are the studded caps which 1 in every ten the stud will bind up and its almost an hours work to fix that problem alone. Good luck with the problem i would say your just having a bad run, good old Murphy is paying you a visit.

I too have talked to the guy with the r31 race cars with mech pumps, and as stated the mech pump was to increase the pressure from the electric ones,the mech pump was not used as a sole operating pump. Thus it was a second measure, thats what I mean. You also stated price as a factor, as I have stated you will not do a mech fuel system cheaper than 2x044 and a surge tank. At the end of the day do what you like, you asked if anyone has seen or used a pump like this so I answered your thread, cause i have both seen the pump you are referring to as I actually own one that is being mounted to a FJ20, and I have used similar pumps and had lengthy discussions with the heat treatments team about drag racing fuel systems set-ups. That being said, if you have no use for the info I am offering and from what I can tell just being a smart arse back who it seems has made up their mind stop asking questions that you don't like the answers to.

Yeah Gibson had billet cams, and if it snapped on a gibson GTR what did they have that you dont, SPARE motors and an basically unlimited budget. If you own a street car you are being ridiculous if you run a mech pump, mechanical pumps are nothing new to me have used them for a very long time on blown alcohol V8's they are good things but they aren't street friendly, or cheap to set up, that $600 pump will blow out. Another note theres a thread running at the moment on snapped camshafts, these thing are as fragile as glass I have snapped one myself just tightning the bearing, a pump no matter the belt type is resistance. I simply would never feel safe running it off the camshafts. Reece Mcgregor runs his of the crank, you could almost argue if its good enough for Reece its good enough for me. But then again both the Gibson car and Reece's are out and out race cars at the very highest level. Oh and another thing the Gibson ran the pump as a secondary measure look in the boot there is still an intense electric fuel syste, in place...as you said if its good enough for Gibson.....!!!

No i wouldnt say so, maybe 5-10rwkw max at full noise, much the same as a AC compressor, your car may feel a little sluggish compared to what your used to though again the same as when the AC is on.

oh and no primign means they can be ran dry between runs, ie you dont need to make sure there is fuel in the pump to lubricate it.

You will need a fuel tank in the engine bay no more than 500mm from the pump, it will need to be at least 10 litres you will still need an electric pump this can be a low psi unit used primarily to fill the engine bay tank. I wouldnt suggest running it off the camshaft like GIbson, you will probably snap it, it will need to run off the crank, and you will need to work out the pulley sizes and make a custom one for your balancer. the pulley size is crucial to make sure you have enough pressure on idle... another factor will be the car will be difficult to start as when you are winding it over you arent generating much pressure so you may need a little pressure resevior with a stop valve that will work on start up. Your $600 pump will easily run you $2000 buy the time everything is set up properly.. Not exagerating.

No belt should whir loud enough to hear it from inside the car driving, if yours does this it is TO TIGHT!!!!! Sorry bout the failure you have there but diagnosing it from the internet is going to be really difficult. It could be anything from losing oil from front cam bearing which in turn snapped the camshaft, could be belt to tight, or as mentioned bolts could have been lose casue a slack that impacted a brittle part and snapped it. Keep us all posted with pics, and what you find this is the first ever casue I have seen that isnt immediately obvious, and breaking this at all is pretty rare. Good luck pulling it down they are a bastard you need Japanese school girl hands, i swear nissan had midgets putting together GTR's.